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Thread: Port Barrel
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30th September 2007, 06:47 PM #1
Port Barrel
Hey all,
I have been asked if I would be able to turn a port barrel.
I have decided that the overall turning would not be too much of a problem as I thought that I would turn it in two halves and then glue it together.
Alternatively I suppose I could turn the outside and then try to hollow it using my hollowing tool but the problem here is that I would end up with a bung in the front or back of the barrel instead of on the top and I would not be able to hollow to the front (back?)of the barrel as the hollower will not work back toward itself. (I hope this is clear)
I should be able to find a small (preferably brass) tap for the barrel and I could make a stand easily enough.
The questions that I have are:
1. The only Oak that I have is She Oak, do you think that this would be suitable? If not what would be suitable?
2. What glue would be best to use? I should be able to get a pretty good tight seal when turning however the glue will still come into contact with the port.
3. Is there anything else that I have missed?
Thanks for the help
Regards
WayneThere's no such thing as gravity, the world sux!!
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30th September 2007 06:47 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th September 2007, 06:54 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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G`day I would not use she oak it is not a true oak.
Mick
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30th September 2007, 07:05 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Yep, it would likely give it a bad taste. Beech or a fruit tree could be a better idea. Also, wouldn't it be better to make it with staves, without glue? More difficult, I agree. Aquadhere PVA is supposed to be non-toxic AFAIK.
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30th September 2007, 08:21 PM #4Member
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what if you make it in two pieces
the first being the walls and back or front then
the second being as a lid for it to sit inside the barrel on a lip
then add your tap etc
hopfully you understand me
bryce
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30th September 2007, 09:25 PM #5
But not waterproof, so prob. not portproof
Needs to be inert once dry, & waterproof - not just water resistant. Polyurethane or epoxy would be the go I'd reckon. Check the MSDS for the glue or ring the mfr & speak to a chemist or tech for advice.
Cheers....................Sean
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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30th September 2007, 10:31 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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Yep, I knew that. In my ignorance, though, I thougth that if the PVA is at the bottom of the groove in a t&g joint and the port swells slightly the internal surface ensuring a tight fit of the non glued inside shoulder, it would have taken care of
Needs to be inert once dry, & waterproof - not just water resistant.
Not so?
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30th September 2007, 11:02 PM #7
A quick'n'easy way to make an "amateur" barrel is to make octagonal (or whatever - but octagonal ends make for easier angle calculation ) panels for the top'n'bottom, then make up some thick staves with rebates on the inside edges for the panels to sit in. If it's going to see use, I think I'd cut/fit splines from rebate to rebate, but no further. (I wouldn't want them to show on the end of the barrel. )
Dry fit everything to make a barrel "blank," use some wire as temporary retainers and mount the whole thing up for turning to traditional shape, moving the wire as/when necessary.
After turning, if you disassemble and lightly round over the outside edges of the staves with s/paper before final assembly it accentuates the joints and makes the end product look aged. After assembly, it can be either cooped or pegged to hold it all together permanently... I've also seen 'em turned with shallow grooves just in from each end that were wire-wrapped and soldered.
No glue involved.
- Andy Mc
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30th September 2007, 11:22 PM #8
Wayne,
This might be a tricky one as sealers are not used at all and by the look of it Oak is the only timber used. French being the most sort after then American.
Alot of the chemical sealants available will leech out to some extent.I have been looking myself for something along the same lines for awhile now and have not come up with any as yet. So I'll watch this thread with interest
http://www.woodturningsupplies.com.a...adhesives.html
http://www.oakin.com/smallbarrels.htm
http://www.barrelsbydesign.com.au/PORTKEG%20PAGE.htmInspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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1st October 2007, 02:40 AM #9
Port Barrel
Hi Wayne,
Titebond 3 is a PVA type glue (actually some sort of resin) that's big in the US and is easily available over here in the UK, not sure about down in Oz though. It's supposed to be ok for food prep such as work tops and chopping boards and I believe it's waterproof as well. Take a look here for more info.
Hope this helps, good luck
RichardWoodturning by Richard Findley at www.turnersworkshop.co.uk
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1st October 2007, 01:15 PM #10
White Oak is the only answer and turning is not the way to go... Staves and correct Barrel construction is the method you want unless a small project is your goal.
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1st October 2007, 01:38 PM #11Hewer of wood
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The odd winery here in Vic used to offer small port barrels with cheap refills from their bulk stock.
This kind of storage is really only decorative as any half decent tawny should've been aged a bit in French or American Oak, and any additional oak-aging would be either hit and miss or over the top. I'd guess that oxidation might rear its ugly head as well.Cheers, Ern
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1st October 2007, 03:35 PM #12
What Skew C said ... and use the real thing. Most gardenning supply outlets and some hardware stores sell used half wine barrels, well that's the case here in the Adelaide Hills (surrounded by wine regions). You could make a number of port barrels from a standard half barrel.
NeilStay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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1st October 2007, 04:10 PM #13
Thanks peoples,
I guess that i will have to look at getting a hold of some Oak and then take it from there.
I like the method suggested by Skew so once I discover some Oak I will give that a try.
Once again thanks to everyone for all the help
Regards
WayneThere's no such thing as gravity, the world sux!!
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1st October 2007, 05:44 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
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1st October 2007, 05:46 PM #15
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