Thread: Three problems in one post

Originally Posted by keith53

...snip...
3. This isn't the last piece though. She wants two of them so I need to make a template so that I can replicate my masterpiece. Some advice on how to copy a piece to transfer on to cardboard/thin ply would be appreciated.....snip.....

If it will fit put it on the Photo Copier, if it is a good make you should get a One to One Image you can cut round.

The finish bit is relatively easy, EEE ultrashine followed by Shellawax, simple fast and environmentally friendly. I usually sand to 400 grit under power and then do the EEE thing then the shellawax under power-5min tops.

Thanks for this,

Originally Posted by PAH1

The finish bit is relatively easy, EEE ultrashine followed by Shellawax, simple fast and environmentally friendly. I usually sand to 400 grit under power and then do the EEE thing then the shellawax under power-5min tops.

So the ultrashine acts like a sanding sealer?

And the shellawax is like a polish?

Cheers,
Keith

Originally Posted by keith53

Thanks for this,


So the ultrashine acts like a sanding sealer?

And the shellawax is like a polish?

Cheers,
Keith

The ultrashine is an ultrafine abrasive that I think is one of the greatest inventions ever, the shellawax is a shellac based finish that burns into the surface and gives a high shine without making the surface feel like plastic.

Keith,

When we catch up I'll give you a demo!! Gotta do my bit to keep Neil in business.....

Cheers,

P

Originally Posted by keith53

Thanks for this,


So the ultrashine acts like a sanding sealer?

And the shellawax is like a polish?

Cheers,
Keith

Keith you've almost got it right: Shellawax is the only polish! Used with EEE it is even bettererder, if that is possible!
No selfrespecting woodturner should be without it and some Hamlet tools............rather go without a lathe. :eek:

Depends on what you have on hand.

And Silky oak varies a good deal in terms of grain coarseness.

If your piece is coarse or open-grained like real oak then I'd recommended ubeaut's Shithot waxstick on its own.

If it's medium to fine, sanding sealer will do a good job with just some paste wax over the top. The first applied on the lathe slowly with a brush, the second applied on the lathe slowly with a pad but then buffed with a flannel rag at medium speed.

If it's pale coloured, some nitro-cellulose sanding sealer is a better option than the shellac-based stuff.

Originally Posted by rsser

Depends on what you have on hand.

And Silky oak varies a good deal in terms of grain coarseness.

This piece has a fairly open grain. I tend to sand 80 / 120 / 240 / 400 / 600 /1200 but it still has a little patch that's a bit "furry" so I thought a filler would be the go.

Really appreciate your comments Ern...

Pleasure Keith.

If you love these pieces, I'd go for the Waxstick (only about $12 from ubeaut, plus postage) but I'd also put this query up on the finishing forum to see if you can hook Neil into the discussion.

I did a platter out of Silky Oak with a faily open grain - sanding sealer and paste wax - and it came up pretty ordinary. Not what I'd wanted after all that work.

SS is not that good a grain filler. An alternative is an oil-based finish (eg. Danish oil) and follow the instructions to wet sand to produce a grain-filling slurry. Then paste-wax for a higher gloss. Downside is that oil darkens the timber.

Organoil High speed works well on Silky, as does the shellawax. I think open grain is the definition of silky, a trap is winding up with sanding marks in the rays, EEE gets them out and stops excessive take up of the finish in those areas as well.

Yeah Pah1. I like Organoil but find it raises the grain several weeks after you think you've finished with a piece.

Silky Oak covers a multitude of sins; about 12 species in one reference I looked at. And colours from cream to deep pinky brown. So it's horses for courses.

Edit: Keith, on reflection, maybe all you need is a sanding sealer with a final fine sand to cut the raised grain. Then wax or whatever you want for the final finish. Not sure how glossy you want your end result to be; if very high, Rustin's plastic, but most turners don't like the way that high gloss obscures the grain of the timber.

Originally Posted by rsser

Yeah Pah1. I like Organoil but find it raises the grain several weeks after you think you've finished with a piece.

I have heard that but not have it happen. I have had it dull off on some pieces, but I put it back on the lathe and do another wet sand and it does not do it again.

I just refer to silky oak as being G. robusta, it is the tree that I have referred to as silky oak all my life and I do not see that changing. Cardwellia is cardwellia, have not heard of others but that is why I hate common names.

Yeah, common names!

Think the ref. was Bootle.

Keith. Nobody seems to have directly answered your queries. So here goes
Using sanding sealer:
a. Do this with the piece in the lathe whilst stationery?-Yes

b. Do this with the piece in the lathe moving slowly? -Wipe off the excess andfinish with lathe turning quickly.

c. Remove from the lathe and do by hand? -No.


2. Should I:

a. Spray? (spray gun or air brush) - No :eek: , You can avoid a. b. & c. Just apply EEE and polish with lathe turning fast to generate some heat. Repeat process with Shellawax.If you use oil such as Danish go through the same process, eg. Apply - wipe of surplus after allowing a few minutes for it to soak in. Polish at high speed. You will need to go through the procedure several times 'til you achieve the desired lustre.
b. Use a brush?-No :eek:


Buy a copy of The Polioshers Handbook. Written by our esteemed Neil. All the secrets of achieving a good finish will be revealed :cool