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3rd June 2020, 01:34 PM #16Woodturner with a shed
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Lance
After all that rambling, what I meant to say was I reckon you could use that rest you have as your fixed one (at whatever angle you use most) and just cut off the ends to give you a bit more room.
Cheers
Redbeard
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Cheers
Redbeard
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3rd June 2020 01:34 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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9th June 2020, 08:11 PM #17
Coming in late on this topic.
In summary, I agree with everyone above....
The following is more about Bowl Gouges than Spindle gouges, but posted anyway in case it is relevant to someone.
For the first thirty years of woodturning I freehand sharpened; you either got good at it or you struggled. As far as I know there were no jigs (as such) up until about then, well not that I got to know about. Keep in mind that flute geometry on bowl gouges only started to change to be more 'parabolic' in the eighties (the Superflute, etc) when grind geometry became more important.
As well as the Superflute, I was using some P&Ns when they came out about then but wasn't happy with the grind I was getting off their flute profile, so I got the Helligrind as it claimed to be compatible with the P&Ns. I still wasn't happy with the Helligrind grind on the P&N bowl gouges, but it did a good job on spindle and skew gouges. Its platform was particularly good and I still in use it three decades later.
When Crown brought out their powdered metal bowl gouge with the Ellsworth grind in the late nineties I decided to try that to see how that steel held up on our harder woods. I liked both the PM steel and the grind, which I found easiest to maintain with an Ellsworth jig that I made. Since then I've made many different bowl gouge jigs and purchased some commercial ones.
I use and then regrind half a dozen gouges at a time. I find I can do 1/2 dozen gouges (handles removed) just as quickly with the jig, if not quicker, than freehand grinding. With the jig I only have to feel to know I have a fresh edge, never any need to visually check and never any need to regrind to correct for grind drift, which I had to do periodically with freehand grinding.
There isn't a big difference between the two methods. That is, if you have already mastered freehand sharpening, then its more a matter of preference. Especially so if you are only grinding one gouge at a time.
But, if you are a novice, I reckon using a jig and getting a highly experienced turner to set up your jig for your bowl gouges would be an invaluable starting point. IMO, spindle gouges are more forgiving with their grinds.
If I was teaching turning I would insist on grinding everyone's bowl gouges so both I and the students knew exactly where everyone is starting from. I know that Glen Lucas does exactly that before every lesson. He grinds them all himself for everyone (with a jig). What they then do back in their workshops is up to them.
PS - The Stuart Batty grind doesn't lend itself to replication on most jigs, but it is only one grind among many.Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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10th June 2020, 12:59 PM #18
Thanks for your response Neil.
I have been trying to use the lathe most days just to get the feel for turning. I never quite understood the discussion around maintaining consistent grinds between chisels and sharpening until I, and my family started using the lathe. The lack of consistency means it can take a while to get "dialled in" after a sharpen, which at best is frustrating, and at worst, messes up a piece of work. I'm sure this will change with time and experience.
I have ordered a jig though. At this point I feel like there is so much of a learning curve, if I can remove one variable from the mix, that will only increase the odds of everyone having more fun with it.
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12th June 2020, 06:41 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Lance. I found the Cindy Droza video really helpful too. I made a plywood tool rest for my grinder that is u shaped. This straddles the wheel at 90°(useless) but gives a broader surface as you tilt it back toward yourself. I also cut some sticks of 32 x 32 timber at common angles (20, 25, 35 and 45°) and use this "jig" to set the angle of my plywood rest relative to the angle at which the blade would meet the wheel. Sharpening is then simply a matter keep the chisel in contact with the ply as you swing through the arc (for gouges) or maintain parallel (for skews). This broad base also works gret for bench plane blades. However I hav3 not been game to try the "Ellsworth" grind freehand yet. Some one who was great to watch on YouTube was Brendan Stemp (an aussie) but his videos are much harder to find. He was freehand all the way and he was posting occasionally on this forum, he might have put up links for his videos if I remember rightly. BTW your Woodfast lathe looks mighty fine.
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13th June 2020, 11:46 AM #20
Brendan has retired (temporarily I hope) from woodturning. He took down his YouTube channel at the time, but you can still buy his videos directly from him. See the following thread.
Brendan Stemp videosStay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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