Thread: One recipe for bowl sanding ... beware, opinions follow!

I've been known to use sanding sealer to get around tearout in difficult timbers - if you've got enough meat left, the sealer can let you take a couple of fine cuts to fix the bad patches. As far as limiting finishing options go, I generally find that timbers that tearout badly soak up finish so greedily that the available options suit the conditions anyway.

I think I've just confused myself Bye!

Originally Posted by rsser

Re Skew's: ain't that stuff more exxy than single malt? And doesn't enough of the latter reduce your concern about tear-out? ...

$adly, ye$. Which is why it's reserved for cantankerous pieces that need a good finish. For day-to-day turnings, I'm using Shellawax more'n'more.

As for the single malt, well... it works out more expensive than the Tung, as the Tung's a once only job, whereas with even the most liberal application of single malt the problem's still there the following day. And the day after and the day after and...

(DAMHIKT It is the more enjoyable method, though!)

... long-time after follow-up:

wonder why this thread stopped here ... lol.

I've only made and sanded one bowl so I'm hardly an expert. The outside was mostly sanded with a ROS (variable speed) after getting bored with normal sanding paper. I did the inside with my cordless drill and a sanding spindle in the chuck, mostly because it was a small bowl and th drill + chuck + sanding pad wouldn't have fitted. You can really only use the end of the spindle doing it this way, so it wears out quickly. Works nice and fast though. I must admit that sanding this bowl really surprised me. Having done all spindles before, this was the first time the speed of the lathe didn't transfer into nice quick sanding speeds with normal paper. Anyone know why that is?

Peter