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2nd May 2011, 01:43 PM #16Intermediate Member
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Jefferson, I'm interested in your opinion. Virtually all of the stuff I've read on Oland-style tools is very positive, with people saying that they're fantastic, esp. from a value-for-money point of view. This is presumably because the Oland fanboys are the only ones who bother writing on them
I certainly don't think they can replace every tool, and a basic set is still neccessary which is really what this thread is about. I guess I was getting sidetracked a bit and saying don't go over the top with a big set without at least looking at the option of making your own to replace some tools.
Brendan
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2nd May 2011 01:43 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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2nd May 2011, 03:16 PM #17Retired
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Brendan,
A hard one, as Oland tool addicts will tell the story differently. As will skew users in the expert class.
All I know is this:
- after 3 odd years of searching for the ultimate tool, none come close to that in vogue / invented decades ago
- some minor exceptions there, but the test of time remains a good one
- you can cut beads and coves with an Oland tip but why bother when you can do it better with the right (read traditional) tools?
The other thing I don't like about the Oland grinds is that few if any of the jig makers cater for sharpening the tips. I can get repeatable results on my Tormek and Truegrind systems without really knowing how to sharpen free-hand.
What else? Probably lots, but let's not hijack the thread completely. I would have thought Oland tools would have been a long way down the list of essential tools for beginners. IMHO.
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2nd May 2011, 05:23 PM #18Deceased
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I have most of the traditional tools but also a set of Oland style tools. I find that each have their own application and learning curve.
For deep hollowing of boxes, urns and vases the Oland style is the best but for other types the traditional ones are better. It is not a case of them replacing others but rather complementing them.
The beauty of them is that you can make them yourself using some old pipe and only have to buy the tool steel cutting tips, available cheaply from H & F.
They are basically a type of scraper so if you can sharpen scraper tips you can sharpen these.
Peter.
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2nd May 2011, 07:34 PM #19Retired
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Peter, you've really opened a can of worms in saying that Oland tools hollow well. Rolly Munro and many others make a fortune out of making articulated tools that perform much, much better than Oland tips.
In any case, I would still prefer to hollow end grain with my spindle gouge, cutting at 45 degrees from inside to out rather than bully the wood with a scraper. Deep hollowing is another matter of course.
A few years back I had up here and we /he finally found a use for Oland tips. But that's another story.
As I said earlier, spend the $210 on a set of 6 Sorby chisels and you can get started with almost any project for beginners.
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2nd May 2011, 08:28 PM #20Deceased
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I don't disagree with that, just pointing out that all tools have a place in a turner's armory, so that the right tool can be used. Although many things can be done with more than one type of tool there is no one tool that can be used for everything.
Beginner sets can be good but only if the set is a good one like Sorby's, too many sets of beginner tools are rubbish.
As to a can of worms I rather have homemade Oland tools costing about five dollars each (like the ones I made recently for Michelle) than spending big dollars for name brands. Just didn't want to discourage someone making their own as tool making is an enjoyable pastime.
Peter.
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2nd May 2011, 10:15 PM #21
I will stick my neck out here. For starting out spindle turning minimum tools are:
25mm roughing gouge
25mm skew (square) with rounded edges
12mm spindle gouge
and maybe a 6mm parting tool. For smallish bowls the spindle gouge will perform ok, with a 25mm round nose scraper. A dedicated bowl gouge is a better option than the spindle gouge.
Remember, I said a starting set. High speed steel is by far the better option but carbon steel will work but not as well. The deciding factor will probably be finances.
JimSometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...
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2nd May 2011, 10:56 PM #22Retired
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I agree.
The 25mm skew is better than a 20mm for a beginner as the long point is further from the wood. Oval skews are too flimsy in cross section IMHO.
If buying a bowl gouge get the 3/8 (1/2"shaft). It will do 95% of the work that the bigger ones will, but a bigger one can't do the work that the smaller on does.
Lastly, learn real turning (spindle) first to learn tool control.
Join a club or get lessons.
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3rd May 2011, 12:29 AM #23SENIOR MEMBER
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3rd May 2011, 03:50 AM #24Senior Member
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A few years ago I bought a 1 1/2" flat bar , rounded edge skew and it is a joy to use on anything that doesn't require much of a curve. It is a perfect learners skew. It doesn't want to catch.
Graeme
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8th May 2011, 07:48 PM #25Member
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The Sorby 12mm bowl gouge is my favourite tool. Although I'd make a heavier handle if you were going to use it on larger bowls at some stage. P&N are a good mid range option, buy them cheaper unhandled.
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8th May 2011, 10:59 PM #26Deceased
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8th May 2011, 11:02 PM #27Retired
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8th May 2011, 11:49 PM #28SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks for that , now i understand the comment in context.
"hollow end grain with my spindle gouge"(with a bowl gouge specific grind type applied)
Cheers mate.
Neal.
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