Thread: remote controller

I purchased a remote control GPO for my desk that works like a charm. The remote is a small fob like a car entry fob. I'll see if the vendor is actually into selling these, or whether it was a favour to me. I have previously had numerous sets of RC sockets from Aldi, Bunnings, and they all end up failing because they are cheap crap. For your purpose you need reliable.

I made my own Tony, and find that it always lives on the right of my lathe, for exactly the reason you state. See Adding variable speed control to my lathe – Lance's Workbench (conryclan.com).

I really like the idea of being able to move the controls around, but think that in the last year, I've only moved it once that I can recall. Let's say twice just to be safe.

It really depends on what the controls on your lathe are as to how simply you can put one together. If nothing else, you could always place an emergency stop inline with the main power line (though if your machine offers active braking, you'll loose that as it will simply coast to a stop.

Originally Posted by LanceC

I made my own Tony, and find that it always lives on the right of my lathe, for exactly the reason you state. See Adding variable speed control to my lathe – Lance's Workbench (conryclan.com).

I really like the idea of being able to move the controls around, but think that in the last year, I've only moved it once that I can recall. Let's say twice just to be safe.

It really depends on what the controls on your lathe are as to how simply you can put one together. If nothing else, you could always place an emergency stop inline with the main power line (though if your machine offers active braking, you'll loose that as it will simply coast to a stop.

Same here made my own 1.5m lead , magnet base etc

My emergency switches for both my MW and WW lathe are in the same spot on both machines and the same place as the machines had them at work.
They're at a height of just above my knee so I can activate them even if both hands are unavailable.

This pic shows the normal mains power switch behind the tool post rest and the E-switch below the bench.
I'm now used to this position and occasionally I do accidentally knock them off which acts as a reminder that they ARE THERE..
WWlatheSAFETY.jpg

It seems obvious now,an someone pointed this out too me years ago.

But it makes sense to actually have the controls on the right, or at least a Safety switch as manufactured standard equipment.

But it just doesn’t seem the norm($$$)

Cheers Matt.

all this is good,
my lathe is the Nova DVR 3000. So how would I go about getting one of these remote units?
My landlord is a sparkie but OCD overbearing (at times) he could possibly make something but If I could buy something or have one made up and then he simply?? wire it in with instructions.

Can you buy Remote control GPO,s or power boards ??

Cheers Matt.

Originally Posted by Tonyz

So how would I go about getting one of these remote units?

Do you mean the one I'm referring to? Send NCArcher a PM.

So that you know, for my desk I just got a single one. You can get a fob that has more than one GPO control (possibly up to 4), and they can be 10A or 15A (and I would imagine you can have a mix of 10/15 on the same fob for the different GPOs). Anyhoo, Tony to discuss with Tony.

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Can you buy Remote control GPO,s or power boards ??

I've tried nearly all the commercially available ones Matt, and they all crap out after too short a time, and out of a pack of four you end up with one that won't bloody die, so you persist with it. I've certainly spent more on them than I did on a proper one from NCArcher (which makes a very satisfying "chunk" sound when it turns on/off. It's part of their whole auto-blastgates venture.

There is a big difference between resistive and inductive loads.

Motors are an inductive load. There is usually a large power surge when turning on and off.

The remote GPO things are not rated / designed for switching decent sized motors.
The use a relay and most relays are not suitable for switching reasonable size motors.

A contactor is the appropriate switching device for a decent size motor.

The standard commercial GPO remotes use a cheap solid state relay internally as the main switching mechanism. These relays are usually rated for 10A/2400W but that is only for resistive loads (lights and heaters). Anything bit of gear evolving a motor has an inductive load component which these relays cannot cannot cope with especially at full power. The most motor power a standard 10A remote should be switching repeatedly is about 1/2HP (375W). Switching 2+HP remotely especially if they are under full load at startup should be performed using a contactor switch. That's probably what NCarcher uses. The satisfying click sounds like the typical a spring loaded switch mechanism used in contactors.

While we're on remotes, especially those on a key fob, do have some disadvantages as safety switches. You have to remember where it is and have it in your possession. I reckon its faster to kick a switch that you know is always guaranteed to be on a machine than fumbling around looking for a remote, especially if you keep it in your pocket or someone has moved it etc, or it has a flat battery etc.

Originally Posted by pippin88

The remote GPO things are not rated / designed for switching decent sized motors.
The use a relay and most relays are not suitable for switching reasonable size motors.

So here I am, back in the Twylight Zone again. Of ALL the RC sockets I have purchased and subsequently given last rites too, the one the operates my 2HP Dusty is a) the most reliable by far, and b) probably the oldest one I have! It would be around 9 years of Yeoman service.

Originally Posted by BobL

Switching 2+HP remotely especially if they are under full load at startup should be performed using a contactor switch. That's probably what NCarcher uses. The satisfying click sounds like the typical a spring loaded switch mechanism used in contactors.

Yes, I think that might be right. He complained about putting a blob of hot glue in the wrong place during a brain fart, and the switch....wouldn't work, unsurprisingly, coz it couldn't move. Those RC GPOs are specifically for DE, so 2+HP for sure.

Originally Posted by BobL

While we're on remotes, especially those on a key fob do have some disadvantages as safety switches. You have to remember where it is and have it in your possession. I reckon its faster to kick a switch that you know is always guaranteed to be on a machine than fumbling around looking for a remote, especially if you keep it in your pocket or someone has moved it etc, or it has a flat battery etc.

Agreed Bob, and I just answered the question as it was posed. Another possible option is to have one of those string pull things around your neck or whatever, like I have seen on some Gym equipment. On the treadmill for example, if you slip and fall over, it pulls the string attached to the machine which stops immediately.

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Agreed Bob, and I just answered the question as it was posed. Another possible option is to have one of those string pull things around your neck or whatever, like I have seen on some Gym equipment. On the treadmill for example, if you slip and fall over, it pulls the string attached to the machine which stops immediately.

Or a rotational part of the machine you are using grabs the string and pulls you into the machine?

Harrr...I try not to rotate on the treadmill (actually I gave that away, and stuck to pool walking). At least the machine would stop...after a very short while