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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    98

    Default first results with oland

    Here it is, two pieces destined for the fire pit, so a shot at hollowing. Used the oland to rough out the outside completetely, then smoothed with a fresh edge on it. Hollowed it, then got stuck. Had to use bowl gouge to even the wall thickness, slightly larger taper out near the bottom.

    On the smaller piece, any suggestions on how to better profile the bottom into the sides? I used a sharp roundnose scraper and ended up putting a nice ring in it. Oh well, a nice pencil cup for the bench.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Berwick, Melbourne
    Age
    64
    Posts
    542

    Default

    I have found that due to my limited skills and fear of scrapers that the hook tool is great for hollowing goblets. I made my own from the instructions on this web site. Wood Turning Hook Tool: Make Your Own
    A very effective tool especially on endgrain. If you search "you tube" you will find some good videos that demonstrate how it it used.


    Cheers
    Shorty
    ________________________________________
    Cheers
    Shorty

    If I can't turn it I'll burn it

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Dundowran Beach
    Age
    76
    Posts
    19,922

    Thumbs up

    Well Daddy, that is a good effort for a first, and you no doubt learnt plenty.

    Just had a squizz at the site listed by the fixer. Very enlightening.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    98

    Default

    I'm really taking a liking to hollowing, especially with that tool. Very aggressive or delicate. By putting more grind on the left side , obviously more effective use could be had, rather than having to grab the bowl gouge to even it all up?

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Flinders Shellharbour
    Posts
    5,693

    Default

    I'm really taking a liking to hollowing, especially with that tool. Very aggressive or delicate. By putting more grind on the left side , obviously more effective use could be had, rather than having to grab the bowl gouge to even it all up?
    It all boils down to getting a bit more experience under your belt. Look at what John Jordan does with his version of Oland tools.

    The up side is the learning curve is very user friendly and easy to master. By the time you have done a few more bowls etc you be off and running. with the best of 'em.

    Have a go at varying the shape of your Oland tool to suit the what you want done at the bottom of your hollow vessels.
    Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso


  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    63
    Posts
    13,360

    Default

    Most of my tips have more grind on the LHS, what I call a "bull-nosed" profile.

    Well done!
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    98

    Default

    Thanks all. Experimented bit and decided to try a garden mushroom I saw on Around the Woods.

    Narrower stem next time around? Something ain't looking right.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Dundowran Beach
    Age
    76
    Posts
    19,922

    Exclamation

    That's one for Calm. A stubby mushroom to turn on a Stubby lathe!

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    2,327

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Daddy3x View Post
    Thanks all. Experimented bit and decided to try a garden mushroom I saw on Around the Woods.

    Narrower stem next time around? Something ain't looking right.
    Stick it back on the lathe and make the stem skinnier.

    I like it otherwise.
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Otautahi , Te Wa'hi Pounamu ( The Mainland) , NZ
    Age
    69
    Posts
    2,114

    Default

    I like the idea .
    How would it go if they were turned to finish out of green wood , so that as they dry they 'naturalize' (deform)

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    98

    Default

    Tree was chainsawed 2 hours prior to turning...chest was soaked and water dripping off the wall behind the machine. Winter is rolling in so we will see how it changes in the spring/summer, got it sitting outside in my parent's flower garden. A neighbor want one to put indoors but wants it to be drier so there is less chance to mold. Can something this thick ever dry out much? I am thinking that putting it in the oven on low is not an option

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Broken Hill
    Posts
    308

    Default

    If you want to see extrordinary things happen to green wood( it has to be thin though, say under 5mm (3/16th in.,soft wood is better than hard wood) place it in the microwave on high for a few minutes. It could come out looking very interesting with wavey edges (or it might crack and catch fire - search "microwave" on this forum for some funny stories). I believe that hot ovens work as well but haven't tried it myself.
    Three wise middle aged monkeys - "see no pot-belly, feel no bald spot, buy no sports car"

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Pensacola Florida
    Age
    78
    Posts
    3,199

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Daddy3x View Post
    Here it is, two pieces destined for the fire pit, so a shot at hollowing. Used the oland to rough out the outside completetely, then smoothed with a fresh edge on it. Hollowed it, then got stuck. Had to use bowl gouge to even the wall thickness, slightly larger taper out near the bottom.

    On the smaller piece, any suggestions on how to better profile the bottom into the sides? I used a sharp roundnose scraper and ended up putting a nice ring in it. Oh well, a nice pencil cup for the bench.
    That's pretty much a common happening for beginners. The best way to improve the cut that far off the tool rest is, ready for this, get as much of the tool rest into the piece as far as possible. This will provide the necessary support for your choice of tool to make sweet cuts that far in. There is a boxmakers tool rest available which goes straight in and gives the necessary support for making clean cuts. Also, instead of holding the tool flat on the bar, angle it slightly so that it is making a negative cut.
    Hope this helps Daddy3x and good luck
    Cheers,
    Ed

    Do something that is stupid and fun today, then run like hell !!!

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