Thread: River Red Gum bowl

Thanks all, I dropped the bowl off to my POC today but they weren't there. Everyone else in the office was pretty impressed with it though.

Lindz, I didn't do anything to treat the cracks. Just turned, sanded and oiled

Originally Posted by L R P

Hey Corbs
Knockout bowl, did you treat the natural cracks with anything,
eg fillemup ? I am half way through something similar and wondering.

Cheers

Nice one Andy! I love the shape. Good luck with the Charity

I thought that I had replied to this earlier but it seems that I might not have subbed it. And I can not recall how critical I was.

I remember now,


Very nice.

Stunning work Corbs. Well done

hi corbs,
very nice bowl,could you tell me if you let each coat dry
or did you buff each coat while wet,
just wondered because i have use kunos oil but it never came up
like that,i must be doing something wrong i think
well done with the bowl ,great job
cheers smiife

Thanks again team...

Originally Posted by smiife

hi corbs,
very nice bowl,could you tell me if you let each coat dry
or did you buff each coat while wet,
just wondered because i have use kunos oil but it never came up
like that,i must be doing something wrong i think
well done with the bowl ,great job
cheers smiife

Smiife, the first coat I put on was fairly heavy which I left dry for 20 minutes then rubbed off with a clean towel and left for 24 hours to dry. Each successive coat was a light coat left for 20 minutes and rubbed off with the towel and left for another 24 hours. I usually only put on 3-4 coats for a satin finish but this bit of redgum loved the Kunos Oil and came up really nicely. I've since found out that I should be rubbing with a red pad between coats so I'm keeping my eye out for a few of them locally now

Originally Posted by corbs

Smiife, the first coat I put on was fairly heavy which I left dry for 20 minutes then rubbed off with a clean towel and left for 24 hours to dry. Each successive coat was a light coat left for 20 minutes and rubbed off with the towel and left for another 24 hours. I usually only put on 3-4 coats for a satin finish but this bit of redgum loved the Kunos Oil and came up really nicely. I've since found out that I should be rubbing with a red pad between coats so I'm keeping my eye out for a few of them locally now

thanks for the info ,will try your method next time
cheers smiife

Originally Posted by corbs

......... I've since found out that I should be rubbing with a red pad between coats so I'm keeping my eye out for a few of them locally now

Have you found those 'red pads' yet ???? - I'm interested in finding the same thing. Having trouble getting a gloss coat from this Livos 'Linn' oil I got - it's supposed to gloss up on the third coat but I'm up to about 13 and still haven't got there - might have to use the 'Kunos' and a 'red pad' instead I think

Originally Posted by TTIT

Have you found those 'red pads' yet ???? - I'm interested in finding the same thing. Having trouble getting a gloss coat from this Livos 'Linn' oil I got - it's supposed to gloss up on the third coat but I'm up to about 13 and still haven't got there - might have to use the 'Kunos' and a 'red pad' instead I think

I haven't made much of an effort looking yet. I looked in Bunnings but they didn't have them. I have a few other local options but may end up having to get them online. I was considering having a try with OOOO steel wool on a test piece to see what happens but haven't made it that far yet. My preference is for the red pad though for when I do open burls, I think the steel wool would get caught in cracks there but solid wood may be an option.

What a wonderful piece of art you produced Corbs, just beautiful.To answer some of your questions, the idea of thinning the Kunos is that it is meant to penetrate deeper into the timber. It is best not to thin the product as it actually dilutes the ingredients and one would need more coats for the same protection. But then again, if you are on a good thing, stick to it..... Maybe next time you intend to use it, make a sample with the thinned Kunos and one sample not thinned and gauge your findings. You may also want to have a look at a video of Neil Scobie using it and how he does it. Application of Livos natural oils on furniture. - YouTube= The way Corbs applied it is correct, apply liberal first coat, after 20 minutes wipe off.Next day and to achieve either a finer finish or more gloss level, sand or cut back with a higher grit paper / an abrasive pad such as scotchpad or the infamous red pad (this is from the German web site). Neil uses 0000 steel wool for example. By doing it this way, it will flatten the wax crystals in the Kunos and not cut down the fibres as with varnish systems. You can also use something like hessian.Please do not misunderstand me as we know furniture makers and woodworkers all have their own little tips and tricks with various finishes and if you achieve the look you want great, if not, ring or email to discuss. TTTT, it would be interesting to know how you are applyingit as 3 coats maybe 4 is usually more than sufficient.

As Angela indicated the scotchbrite pads in white or red will do the same thing, even used 2000g wet and dry, used wet.

Some timbers do take more coats to get a shine but most seem to just get a sheen no matter how much oil goes on.

Bungendore have athin mix as they go around and wipe the timber items every now and then to revive a peice that needs an upgrade after a lot of handling.

They dont want a full mix as this takes more work for them to look after, a thin mix can be wiped on and of straight away.

Thanks Angela, I get my oil from the Bungendore gallery and they sell it thinned which may account for me needing more coats to achieve the finish. That said, I usually only put three to four coats on which gives me a very nice finish. I have 0000 steel wool in the shed so I will experiment rubbing back with that next time.

On a side note, the lady who asked me to make the peice has made it very clear that she will be the one buying it as well regardless of the cost

Originally Posted by AngelaPetruzzi

.................................... TTTT, it would be interesting to know how you are applyingit as 3 coats maybe 4 is usually more than sufficient.

It's not the Kunos oil I have issues with Angela - I get an excellent sheen with it with just the 3 or 4 coats suggested - even better since I went to our local paint place to find the 'red pads' and came home with some 'fine' and 'ultra fine' Scotchbrite which beats the hell out of clogging up fine sandpaper between coats.
The Linn oil is the one I have a problem with . I followed the instructions on the can to the letter but even after ten coats I wasn't getting what I would consider a 'gloss' finish . When trying to 'polish' on the last super-light coat it just goes sort of misty looking and leaves streaks all over. After sanding back completely twice to start from scratch, I ended up settling for 'the best I could manage' which has been drying now for over a week. Once I get the hinges fitted to the box I will buff it with wax and see if I can get rid of the streaks and a full gloss to it that way

Nice bowl there Corbs!
nice bit of wood and a pleasing shape

Hope it raises a lot of money

I've a dim memory that the scotch pads are available in Kmart in a couple of different colours, paint section?