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20th June 2013, 02:10 AM #16
The R/ Gouges.
Hi All,
Scott, the reason I like the P&N'S is that they have a fair bit of weight to them. Even the Small Greaves is Heavier than most Spindle Gouges.
When buying a R/G as far as I know there are no Spindle Roughing Gouges.
So, Where does this Spindle Roughing Gouge thing come from, as the P&N 25mm. is Shaped more like a Bowl Gouge.
Jim McC, If you place the Skew on it's edge, Long point down, & make a series of cuts, then use the Skew, there will be no Splinters.
So a 10" / 250mm. x 2" / 50mm. I wood put 12 - 14 cuts in it.
Of course you rough with the Long Point, but I don't use all of the Skew. I keep putting cuts in until it is round, & may do more until I get the the required Size.
My Name is Billy not Silly, meaning you are asking for Trouble if you use all of the Skew's Blade.Regards,
issatree.
Have Lathe, Wood Travel.
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20th June 2013 02:10 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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20th June 2013, 01:44 PM #17Retired
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20th June 2013, 01:52 PM #18Retired
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My roughing gouges vary from the English style (U shaped) to the European style (like a traditional spindle gouge) and sizes vary from 1/2" to 2" across.
I think I have most of the manufacturers brands but my main preference is Henry Taylor (32mm) European style for the bigger stuff and the larger U shaped for small work.
European (Large).jpgCollection (Large).jpgEnglish (Large).jpg
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20th June 2013, 08:53 PM #19
I've a P&N 25mm because that's what I got in the begining - and I'm liking it
I'm thinking of getting a 32 mm for roughing down pen blanksregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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21st June 2013, 12:10 AM #20
Just the P&N 32mm.
It is all I need for the very little bit of spindle work that I do.
I like the solid tang.
The steel is OK.
It's heavy.
But, their flutes have residual milling tracks that need to be ground/polished out.
Buy unhandled and add your own; their standard handle is too short for this size gouge. I like two thirds handle to one third blade length.
PS - never thought to use it on pensStay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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21st June 2013, 12:38 PM #21GOLD MEMBER
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I do 95% bowls & 5% tool handles for my own use. I don't own a roughing gouge so use a 5/8 inch bowl gouge, 1 inch spindle gouge, or a 3/4 inch square Bedan for roughing.
I did for a while just use the skew for roughing and finishing, but it occurred to me that honing the skew took more time than a quick swipe on the grinder with the Bedan.
Once I get the skew the right shape on the Tormek I frequently hone on a piece of 320 or 400 grit paper on the bed of the lathe. No point in wearing off that nice shape and edge using it for roughing.
One day when a good roughing gouge appears at 1/2 price I will own one.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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21st June 2013, 01:00 PM #22Retired
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You forgot the verb.
####### skew
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21st June 2013, 01:52 PM #23GOLD MEMBER
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Since I spent about two weeks and 30 to 40 hours making tool handles, I no longer call it the accursed skew.
Heaven help me, I even make a tool handle just for entertainment.
As I haven't made a spindle in months I might have to do a bit of practice.
Are some of your European RGs welded on to black iron pipe? Is the vibration harder on the hands than the wooden handles? I have considered welding some big thick planer cutters on to pipe and wrapping the pipe with padded handlebar tape.
My seller called two weeks ago and needed some bigger bowls, so I have been finishing off some that have been lounging around the shed, shrinking oval and cracking. I delivered 7 yesterday and have 3 more almost finished.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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21st June 2013, 06:04 PM #24Retired
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21st June 2013, 11:08 PM #25GOLD MEMBER
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22nd June 2013, 10:40 AM #26
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22nd June 2013, 09:46 PM #27Retired
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It is a little bit bit of a paradox.
The larger the work, the smaller the gouge (within reason).
I use the smaller European gouge on larger stuff because it doesn't "bite" as much as the larger English type. On harder stuff it cuts better and longer.
I have no idea why this is so, just is and even Frank Pain mentions it in his book but also gives no explanation.
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23rd June 2013, 12:03 AM #28
Thanks for that insight.
Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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23rd June 2013, 02:52 PM #29SENIOR MEMBER
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Roughing gouges
This is all very interesting about what we have, but the question is what we use. If you are roughing down on the spindle, except for small diameter stock, you use the RG.
I think small RG's are practically useless. In my mind it has to be something that has a bit of grunt and a decent big handle, otherwise a bit like flying in a storm. It is
then comfortable to plane down with a skew. I only use the skew to rough (plane) down on small diameter stock, square or round. So if it is big and ugly (on the spindle) use a RG.
I think, it is safer and quicker, IMHO. Drillit.
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23rd June 2013, 04:40 PM #30GOLD MEMBER
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here are my 3 roughing gouges and the main chisels gouges and parting tools I use at work! mainly use my p&n and Henry Taylor! the big old p&n comes out on the odd occasionwhen removing waste in a big hurry!
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