Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 32
  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    BELL POST HILL, 3215
    Age
    87
    Posts
    2,332

    Default The R/ Gouges.

    Hi All,
    Scott, the reason I like the P&N'S is that they have a fair bit of weight to them. Even the Small Greaves is Heavier than most Spindle Gouges.

    When buying a R/G as far as I know there are no Spindle Roughing Gouges.

    So, Where does this Spindle Roughing Gouge thing come from, as the P&N 25mm. is Shaped more like a Bowl Gouge.

    Jim McC, If you place the Skew on it's edge, Long point down, & make a series of cuts, then use the Skew, there will be no Splinters.
    So a 10" / 250mm. x 2" / 50mm. I wood put 12 - 14 cuts in it.
    Of course you rough with the Long Point, but I don't use all of the Skew. I keep putting cuts in until it is round, & may do more until I get the the required Size.

    My Name is Billy not Silly, meaning you are asking for Trouble if you use all of the Skew's Blade.
    Regards,
    issatree.
    Have Lathe, Wood Travel.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,918

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by issatree View Post
    Hi All,
    Scott, the reason I like the P&N'S is that they have a fair bit of weight to them. Even the Small Greaves is Heavier than most Spindle Gouges.

    When buying a R/G as far as I know there are no Spindle Roughing Gouges.

    So, Where does this Spindle Roughing Gouge thing come from, as the P&N 25mm. is Shaped more like a Bowl Gouge. That was the problem. People taking up woodturning were using it as a bowl gouge. Very dangerous, DO NOT USE A SPINDLE ROUGHING GOUGE ON BOWLS. To see what can happen Why you don't use a Spindle Roughing Gouge on bowls. - YouTube

    About 30 years ago it was decided amongst turners that it should be renamed Spindle Roughing gouge to differentiate between Spindles and bowl work. The manufacturers still call it a Roughing gouge.

    Jim McC, If you place the Skew on it's edge, Long point down, & make a series of cuts, then use the Skew, there will be no Splinters. Jim was referring to using the skew in the normal manner.

    So a 10" / 250mm. x 2" / 50mm. I wood put 12 - 14 cuts in it.
    Of course you rough with the Long Point, but I don't use all of the Skew. I keep putting cuts in until it is round, & may do more until I get the the required Size.

    My Name is Billy not Silly, meaning you are asking for Trouble if you use all of the Skew's Blade.
    The skew is a finishing tool and it is quicker to use a roughing gouge IMHO.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,918

    Default

    My roughing gouges vary from the English style (U shaped) to the European style (like a traditional spindle gouge) and sizes vary from 1/2" to 2" across.

    I think I have most of the manufacturers brands but my main preference is Henry Taylor (32mm) European style for the bigger stuff and the larger U shaped for small work.

    European (Large).jpgCollection (Large).jpgEnglish (Large).jpg

  5. #19
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North of the coathanger, Sydney
    Age
    68
    Posts
    9,417

    Default

    I've a P&N 25mm because that's what I got in the begining - and I'm liking it

    I'm thinking of getting a 32 mm for roughing down pen blanks
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Adelaide Hills, South Australia
    Posts
    4,311

    Default

    Just the P&N 32mm.

    It is all I need for the very little bit of spindle work that I do.

    I like the solid tang.

    The steel is OK.

    It's heavy.

    But, their flutes have residual milling tracks that need to be ground/polished out.

    Buy unhandled and add your own; their standard handle is too short for this size gouge. I like two thirds handle to one third blade length.

    PS - never thought to use it on pens
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  7. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    2,327

    Default

    I do 95% bowls & 5% tool handles for my own use. I don't own a roughing gouge so use a 5/8 inch bowl gouge, 1 inch spindle gouge, or a 3/4 inch square Bedan for roughing.

    I did for a while just use the skew for roughing and finishing, but it occurred to me that honing the skew took more time than a quick swipe on the grinder with the Bedan.

    Once I get the skew the right shape on the Tormek I frequently hone on a piece of 320 or 400 grit paper on the bed of the lathe. No point in wearing off that nice shape and edge using it for roughing.

    One day when a good roughing gouge appears at 1/2 price I will own one.
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  8. #22
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,918

    Default

    You forgot the verb.
    ####### skew

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    2,327

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by View Post
    You forgot the verb.
    Since I spent about two weeks and 30 to 40 hours making tool handles, I no longer call it the accursed skew.

    Heaven help me, I even make a tool handle just for entertainment.

    As I haven't made a spindle in months I might have to do a bit of practice.

    Are some of your European RGs welded on to black iron pipe? Is the vibration harder on the hands than the wooden handles? I have considered welding some big thick planer cutters on to pipe and wrapping the pipe with padded handlebar tape.

    My seller called two weeks ago and needed some bigger bowls, so I have been finishing off some that have been lounging around the shed, shrinking oval and cracking. I delivered 7 yesterday and have 3 more almost finished.
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  10. #24
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,918

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul39 View Post
    Since I spent about two weeks and 30 to 40 hours making tool handles, I no longer call it the accursed skew. Good! Another convert to "the Black Arts."

    Heaven help me, I even make a tool handle just for entertainment. Oh you sad man.

    As I haven't made a spindle in months I might have to do a bit of practice.Probably.

    Are some of your European RGs welded on to black iron pipe? Is the vibration harder on the hands than the wooden handles? I have considered welding some big thick planer cutters on to pipe and wrapping the pipe with padded handlebar tape. The tangs snap on ours just from vibration so the answer is to weld them on to steel pipe. I notice no difference in vibration between wood and steel.

    My seller called two weeks ago and needed some bigger bowls, so I have been finishing off some that have been lounging around the shed, shrinking oval and cracking. I delivered 7 yesterday and have 3 more almost finished.
    A little mad money coming up?

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    2,327

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by View Post
    A little mad money coming up?
    The turnings are sold on consignment, so the mad money comes in dribs and dabs.

    I cash the checks and put it all in my "crazy money" stash, so that when a really good deal comes available on a lathe, chuck, tool, etc. I can buy it.
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Adelaide Hills, South Australia
    Posts
    4,311

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by View Post

    ...European style for the bigger stuff and the larger U shaped for small work.
    - I'm trying to understand the subtleties of this difference.

    Do you prefer the European profile for the bigger stuff because it removes more wood (a wider bite) or a shallower bite for a more manageable cut or some other factor(s)?
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  13. #27
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,918

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NeilS View Post
    - I'm trying to understand the subtleties of this difference.

    Do you prefer the European profile for the bigger stuff because it removes more wood (a wider bite) or a shallower bite for a more manageable cut or some other factor(s)?
    It is a little bit bit of a paradox.

    The larger the work, the smaller the gouge (within reason).

    I use the smaller European gouge on larger stuff because it doesn't "bite" as much as the larger English type. On harder stuff it cuts better and longer.

    I have no idea why this is so, just is and even Frank Pain mentions it in his book but also gives no explanation.

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Adelaide Hills, South Australia
    Posts
    4,311

    Default

    Thanks for that insight.
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  15. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Normanhurst NSW 2076
    Age
    81
    Posts
    484

    Default Roughing gouges

    Quote Originally Posted by nz_carver View Post
    So been doing a lot of spindle work over the last to weeks
    It got me thinking about roughing gouges and one big question what makes a good roughing gouge and what do you look for in a roughing gouge??

    I have 2 one is a small Sorby and the other is a large open fluted roughing gouge don't have a makers mark but told it came from the same guy that use to make the UNI Jig I love it its my first pick.
    This is all very interesting about what we have, but the question is what we use. If you are roughing down on the spindle, except for small diameter stock, you use the RG.
    I think small RG's are practically useless. In my mind it has to be something that has a bit of grunt and a decent big handle, otherwise a bit like flying in a storm. It is
    then comfortable to plane down with a skew. I only use the skew to rough (plane) down on small diameter stock, square or round. So if it is big and ugly (on the spindle) use a RG.
    I think, it is safer and quicker, IMHO. Drillit.

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    shoalhaven n.s.w
    Posts
    1,240

    Default

    here are my 3 roughing gouges and the main chisels gouges and parting tools I use at work! mainly use my p&n and Henry Taylor! the big old p&n comes out on the odd occasionwhen removing waste in a big hurry!
    Attached Images Attached Images

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. More Saw Talk
    By IanW in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 26th April 2010, 10:29 PM
  2. Someone to talk to
    By taddy in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLING
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 5th July 2009, 11:19 PM
  3. Nurse Talk - oh!oh!
    By Rodgera in forum WOODIES JOKES
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 12th August 2008, 09:18 PM
  4. Does the wood talk to you?
    By AlexS in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 20th May 2007, 09:20 PM
  5. Does The Wood Talk To You?
    By Gil Jones in forum WOODWORK PICS
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 20th June 2006, 09:56 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •