Thread: Sanding

Originally Posted by Bruce White

Neil, I bought a passive sander and disks when I first started but decided ( probably as I was inefficient in using them and that I did not cut my own disks) that it was a more expensive option and gave no better finish than hand held paper. Probably should give it another go.

Some people love 'passive sanders' while others prefer using the disks (or discs) under power. I fit into the latter group.

I normally get at least a couple of 12" bowls out of each grit before discarding, even on reasonably hard woods, and more on low silica soft woods. But, I do use quality abrasives, high speeds and low pressure.

Originally Posted by Bruce White

.... I slap the paper on the lathe as it clogs and bin it when it will not clear much. I also have a feeling - probably erroneous - that in using it to full clog a couple of times changes the grit through wear and that even if I did manage to clear it again it would not be efficient in the sanding steps if re-used.

Maybe I am expecting too much from the paper! Rgds, Bruce

Give the Astradot a go. With the open grit it doesnt seem to clog as much, but you still have to keep the paper moving. Most turners make the mistake of holding the paper in one spot on the paper and move it across the bowl, rather than moving both. Thats why I like passive sanders on the few bowls I do.

"Changing the grit through wear" - don't think it works like this. Abrasive particles edges just blunt. Though with Alox and esp. Alox seeded gel there may be some fracturing to provide a fresh edge.

Like Neil, with power sanding I'm getting better life than you are roughly adjusted for abrasive area. I'd expect to get at least one bowl out of a quality 50mm diam. disc.

I'll go with TTIT and the Lynfurn Australia | Coated Abrasive Specialists | Supplier Of Indasa I have had that from the U.K. and am about to order some more. Really good kit. I was reluctant to get it at first because a fair amount of my sanding is done with my Carroll sanding drums and I wasn't sure the velcro fluffy backed abrasive would fit, but it does and it is dammed good!

I am glad of this thread because it caused me to look back at my links to get more

As has been pointed out, different brands have different properties, and wear rates.

The better brands, hermes,SIA,MIRKA,will hhave a better life than the cheap asian products.

The better off the tool finish you can achieve, the less sanding you will need to do, you must also not jump too many grits when sanding. I would suggest that jumping 1 grit is the most you should jump when sanding.

I normally would start at 120 or 180 Grit and go to 3220/400grit then burnish, and finish with shellac and wax.

brand and grits you will have to sort out yourself, but paper back is not advisable expect in finer grits, and open coat in JJ cloth is best in cloth backed material to 400 grit.


Jeff
vk4

AHAA! Just had a look at the Lyndfurn website re TTITs Rhynowet redline. Seems I am missing a few grits. I thought I had all the grit steps. I have - because that is what they have on the shelf at Carbatec and I bought the lot in bulk - 120, 180,240,320,400,600,800 & 1000. Seems I am missing 150,220,280,360,500. SO WHO FEELS LIKE A GOOSE NOW?

No need to feel like a goose Bruce!

Looking at your range I'd say the only significant gap in particle size terms you had was the #150.

That said, with power sanding it's only been with a few soft woods that I've added that to the climb.

I can see that I am going to have to try power sanding - the passive sander did not impress me too much. Good old hand sanding - even though I am missing grits still gives me a lovely finish. I was asked - after I had my first stall at the local markets recently - to put some of my work in the local tourist centre. Shortly after doing that I had a call from a fellow who runs an art gallery asking if I would like to exhibit some of my "artwork" there! Most gratifying!
And now I can tell my Kids I am an ARTIST!

Cool. Nice feedback.

...

I used to start with hand sanding inside bowls, using garnet paper. Worked well enough; from those coarse grits I went to a powered pad for finer finishing.

Inertia sanding has never impressed me. I find it too slow ... but many turners like it.

Power sanding has its downsides ... in particular with coarse grits it's cutting, not finishing; you can loose detail, you can create rippling with wide-spaced grain or even sand through the bottom of a recess-mounted bowl.

Originally Posted by rsser

Inertia sanding has never impressed me. I find it too slow ... but many turners like it.

Crikey how much sanding have you got to do???

Originally Posted by Bruce White

AHAA! Just had a look at the Lyndfurn website re TTITs Rhynowet redline. Seems I am missing a few grits. I thought I had all the grit steps. I have - because that is what they have on the shelf at Carbatec and I bought the lot in bulk - 120, 180,240,320,400,600,800 & 1000. Seems I am missing 150,220,280,360,500. SO WHO FEELS LIKE A GOOSE NOW?

Wouldn't worry about the others Bruce - I have no problems using just 240, 320, 400, 600. 800, 1000 and 1200. Once I finished mucking about with all the other brands, I bought a lifetime supply of Redline from the US - 42 cents/sheet - couldn't argue with that - the local paint shop wants $2 a sheet

Originally Posted by rsser

............Inertia sanding has never impressed me. I find it too slow ... but many turners like it............

Couldn't agree more!!!

Originally Posted by vk4

...........but paper back is not advisable except in finer grits,............

why???

Thanks TTIT, now I feel less of a goose. You use the same grits/steps I do - rarely have to start below 240 now-a-days.

Up until I couldn't put up with the noise I had my drill clamped to the lathe stand and a heavy duty flex drive with a 2" velcro arbour in it. I had thought about a flex drive for my Dremel but I didn't think it would be man enough to cope, so I bought one of these with a heavy duty hand piece. Absoloutly fantastic and quiet. The foot control is nice and easy and you can get into places that I couldn't reach with a drill

Buy Axminster Heavy Duty Flexible Drive Unit from Axminster, fast delivery for the UK

It's used for other jobs too where fine cutting and drilling are needed. A bit expensive? May be, but so much better with either trying to control a hand drill or the noise. You want fast, it's got fast. Slow?, yes that too..

Originally Posted by Mobyturns

Crikey how much sanding have you got to do???

Negligible sanding on bowl outsides these days.

Insides? Sometimes I've left a gouge track too near the rim to take out with a scraper due to bowl flex or the piece having gone out of true at the end of the tool work.