Thread: Sanding in reverse.

<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Had a reverse switch on an earlier lathe and never used it, so it wasn't an issue when my latest lathe came without one.

On the odd occasion when I need to get the same benefits of reversing the lathe, I just turn the lathe speed right down and run my power sander in the same direction as the rotating piece.

.....

Sorry, I don't sand...
Jim

Rarely, but I have a reversible drill. Sometimes alternate hand and power sanding to help remove sanding scratches.

Most of the time I power sand so reverse isn't necessary. Some times when I am sanding without the lathe turned on, on the inside of the bowl, I will spin the bowl in reverse. When hand sanding, I do use reverse, but hand sanding for me is mostly end grain turned boxes.

As to your dust collector getting more of the dust, an open hose gets some of the dust, a big funnel will get more of the dust, a hood that encloses most of the bowl will get almost all of the dust. Whether the lathe is in forward or reverse makes little difference.

robo hippy

Yes, more than no, so my answer would be mostly. If mostly was an option (hint hint). Mainly for reasons 1 & 2.

Originally Posted by powderpost

Sorry, I don't sand...
Jim

Impressed even more straight off the tool

I have no reversing switch but have sanded in reverse by remounting the job.

To qualify my "yes" answer, I sand in forward and reverse. Sometimes I change spindle direction each time I change grits (not the eating kind), and sometimes not. I do find it useful and much safer if the chuck, faceplate, or donut chuck has at least one grub screw (two is better) to keep the tool on the spindle in reverse. Also, I have found that with enough vibration (not from sanding), a chuck WILL quickly rotate OFF the spindle while turning in the FORWARD direction. Sounds odd, but I have had it happen several times. Hence, I tighten my chuck/faceplate grub screws tight with every use. And, if the chuck or faceplate does not have grub screws, I drill and tap so it will have them.
Cheers,
Gil

Never felt a need to reverse sand, even though I wired a switch to the motor to do so.
Very often have power sanded (reversible drill) using a very soft foam pad with the piece stationary...this works great for any swirls or rough spots where the grain deviates from normal.

I believe that it has a lot to do with technique, and tool sharpness.

When I first started turning, I fixed up an washing machine auxiliary motor on my old lathe, which could be run eiither way, with a judicious spin in the required direction. This allowed me to alternate direction with successive grits.

I HAD to do this, as no matter how carefully and thoroughly I sanded, and how good a finish I achieved, a couple of days/weeks later, there would be grain raising its ugly head again.

Followed this practice for several years, until I moved continents, when the aux set-up fell by the wayside. Lo and behold!!! When I discarded the practice, I did not find a return of the grain raising which had plagued me.

I am convinced that my early ham-handed techniques and crude blunt tools were to blame.......... bruising and damaging the timber below the surface.

While I do have problems sanding out bruised or torn grain from time to time, I have nevr again experienced the "whole piece" phenomenon of the early days.

Another change in technique I made over the years, was to slow the lathe while sanding, and lighten my touch. The criterion I use: I never sand with any form of heat pad, just with bare fingers under a single layer of sandpaper. If I start burning my fingers, either I am too fast, pressing too hard, or the paper is kn@ckered.

my 2c

I don't because my lathe doesn't go backwards... yet. I have a VFD that will make it's way onto it at some point and will give it a try then. Sounds like an interesting idea.

Cheers,
Dave

Reverse sanding would really only make a differance finish wise on flat work wouldn't it? Cos the grain is always half the time going the wrong way. So sanding will get the reversed grain.

Sanding 's big stools it feels safer reverse sanding cos your hand is on top of the work. More natural stance too. You can lean you weight into it. With your hand underneath it would feel like your arm could be dragged in between the lathe and the enormous spinning bit of wood. And you have to pull your hand upwards. Can't get your weight behind it. Plus you can see what you are doing.

Originally Posted by tea lady

.....Sanding 's big stools......

Geeeez TL - not when I'm about to tuck into lunch

I voted no because my lathe and drill won't spin in reverse as yet.

In fact until a few weeks ago I wasn't even aware that it could be done and the benefits of it which is not surprising as I only took up turning after last years WWS in October. This subject is part of the steep learning curve.

I am looking into getting reverse switches on both the lathe and drill press and then I'm sure I will try it out.

BTW anyone adapted a MC900 clone by fitting a reversing switch?


Peter.

Most of my lathes have a reversing switch, but I never sand in reverse.
It doesn't matter if you sand forwards or reverse, you still sand circular scratches into your work. Like Cliff, I stop the lathe after every grit and sand with the grain. All of my large pieces are sanded off the lathe.