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Thread: Sanding technique
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4th April 2009, 02:45 PM #1
Sanding technique
I don't seem to have any trouble when sanding hardwoods such as Blackwood, redgum, burls even banksia, but when it comes to the softer woods i.e. Cedar, Blue Spruce etc I seem to get a ton of fine scratches.
I'm currently working on a bowl which I think could be Oregon (confirmation would be appreciated) and it's driving me nuts trying to get rid of sanding marks. I've tried hand held, rotary (powered and unpowered), I throw the paper away the minute it becomes the slightest bit clogged. I blow the piece down with compressed air to get rid of dust, I alternate direction between grits and I've tried sanding sealer between grits. I don't want to oversand because ridges will develop due to the difference in hardness between growth rings. I've bugger all hair as it is and I don't to tear any more out stressing over these damn scratches.To grow old is inevitable.... To grow up is optional
Confidence, the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.
What could possibly go wrong.
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4th April 2009, 02:52 PM #2
What grit are you starting with, then what order of grits are you going up in?
Cheers
DJ
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4th April 2009, 02:58 PM #3
Last edited by Grumpy John; 4th April 2009 at 03:00 PM. Reason: note added
To grow old is inevitable.... To grow up is optional
Confidence, the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.
What could possibly go wrong.
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4th April 2009, 03:03 PM #4
I reckon you need to add another grit in between 120 and 180, it's too big a jump for softwood IMO
Cheers
DJ
ADMIN
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4th April 2009, 03:41 PM #5
O.K. I'll try a 150 grit. thanks DJ.
To grow old is inevitable.... To grow up is optional
Confidence, the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.
What could possibly go wrong.
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4th April 2009, 03:45 PM #6
I also have 150 in that gap but I now try to use a very fine shear scrape so I can start at 180 or 240.
Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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4th April 2009, 08:12 PM #7Member
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I had the same difficulties with a piece of Coachwood earlier in the week. No matter what i tried I could not get rid of very fine scratches that were visible in some lights. I ended up hand sanding from 240 through to 600 with the grain - the scratches are still there but can't be seen now.
The guys at the wood turning club gave me a few reasons for this occurring:
- Softer wood
- Paper getting too hot during sanding
- Pressing too hard
I hope this helps.
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4th April 2009, 08:18 PM #8
John
I found that a good coat of nitro cellulose sealer was a big help on softer woods
Regards
Bowl-BasherI can turn large lumps of wood into very small bowls
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4th April 2009, 08:55 PM #9
If there are minor, but obvious scratches that go against both the grain direction & the sanding/rotation direction, I'll stop the lathe and hand-sand along the grain. Usually, when I start the lathe and resume normal sanding with the same grit, that removes the scratch without needing to drop back a grit.
It's just a case of catching them when they first appear, not a grit or two later.
I don't think I've ever started under 180!
Sometimes, in case of really, really pernicious tear-out that I can't turn out I'll drop down to a gravel rash combo, but that's only as a "tear-out free chisel," not for finish sanding.
- Andy Mc
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4th April 2009, 10:00 PM #10
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4th April 2009, 10:18 PM #11
I very rarely start below 60
regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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4th April 2009, 10:37 PM #12
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4th April 2009, 11:01 PM #13Retired
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One for Skew
Skew,
I'll save you a small piece of redgum fiddle back and will see whether you can start on 180 grit! It tears out with even the sharpest of scrapers.
Jeff
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4th April 2009, 11:17 PM #14
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5th April 2009, 01:40 AM #15Banned
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