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Thread: carbon steel and hss
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4th April 2006, 10:00 PM #1You've got to risk it to get the biscuit
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carbon steel and hss
is there any differences in sharpening hss to carbon steel?
i am wanting to no because next term (when woodturning starts at school) i'm gonna learn how to sharpen my tools on the bench grinder. i'm getting hss chisels for my birffy (11/04) and i've got a cheapy set of carbon steel ($30ish of ebay a few months a go). i'll get someone experienced to sharpen my hss tools properly while learning with the carbon ones. so is it any different sharpening different steels?
ps at the moment i'm using a hand held diamond stone ( from ct) to sharpen them ( bench grinder will make life alot easier!!!!)S T I R L O
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4th April 2006, 10:08 PM #2
Yes! (A certain recent thread pops to mind! )
CS loses it's temper when overheated... if the tip goes blue when sharpening, it's stuffed. You have to reshape past the bluing and resharpen.
HSS is a lot more forgiving, you can lightly blue it without removing it's strength. This is not to say that you can't ruin HSS by overheating, just that when you see it go blue you can simply back off, let it cool a bit and then continue sharpening.
Having said all that, good quality CS (not the cheap chaiwanese stuff... I mean tools like Sorbys and Taylors before HSS was available) will keep its' edge longer than HSS and is becoming cheaper to buy 'cos HSS is the "flavour of the month." Learning to sharpen it properly is definitely worth your while.
Also, keep your diamond lap convenient to hand at the lathe. When you notice your tool starting to lose it's edge, give it a quick stroke or two with the lap and keep right on turning. When it starts taking four or five (or more) strokes to freshen the edge, then it's time to take it back to the wheel. This'll save a lot of walking time and make your tools last longer 'cos they're losing less steel.
- Andy Mc
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4th April 2006, 10:20 PM #3You've got to risk it to get the biscuit
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i'lll have someone basically standing over me to tell me if i'm going at it a bit fast or held it for to long so i should be right ( hopefully) with overheating
ps. thanx for the quick reply skew and the good advice. i think i can send u a greenie but not sure ( yep i can )
pps 500 posts!!!S T I R L O
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4th April 2006, 10:27 PM #4
Its good to see "young folk" getting into turning. Don't let the gray & wrinklies have all the fun.
Reminds me of last wood show, saw this "sweet young lass" wandering round with a huge nice brand turning chisel sticking out of her goodie bag & had to chuckle to my self
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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4th April 2006, 10:30 PM #5You've got to risk it to get the biscuit
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Originally Posted by soundmanS T I R L O
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4th April 2006, 10:53 PM #6
Woodturning..... and entirely more civilised and usefull activity for even mildly geeky types than thugby or pricket
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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4th April 2006, 10:56 PM #7Originally Posted by ss_11000
Oh, yeah... the third option: sitting outside the principal's office. I think that even after 30 plus years I could still draw a map of all the cracks in the corridor walls. I hated our so-called sports periods.
- Andy Mc
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4th April 2006, 10:58 PM #8You've got to risk it to get the biscuit
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Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!S T I R L O
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4th April 2006, 11:31 PM #9
I'm not really into turning as I'd rather make furniture but I'm quite competent as a spindle turner. I've got a an elcheapo chinese set and they're great.
I keep a file handy while turning and sharpen as needed while I'm turnin.
I tested the steel in one a few years ago and they would harden and temper very well but I've never got around to doing that as the file method is very easy.
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5th April 2006, 07:11 PM #10Registered
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Im sure I read somewhere once, that HSS can get to glowing red before it loses its edge.
Al
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5th April 2006, 09:24 PM #11You've got to risk it to get the biscuit
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Originally Posted by ozwinnerS T I R L O
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5th April 2006, 09:28 PM #12Registered
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No.
Red is after blue but before white.
As in I before E except when I eat the pie. :confused: :confused:
Al
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5th April 2006, 11:02 PM #13
Skew - Think you'll find that HSS keeps its edge much longer than CS but the CS can be sharpened to a keener edge. Least ways that's what I found over many years of using both.
Cheers - Neil
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5th April 2006, 11:40 PM #14
Neil, I can only talking from personal experience but I'll swear my trusty old CS Sorby detail gouge lasts twice as long as the new HSS Sorby one I got for Chrissy. (Not my choice, but who looks a gift horse...?) I guess it could be that the new 'un mightn't be as good an "overall" quality as the CS, but I wouldn't have thought that of Sorby. I certainly don't spend any extra time when sharpening either... a couple of licks across the wheel and back to work. I've noticed similar with other tools, but I guess that could be 'cos I'm also using cheap CS tools as well. More an appearance than fact. I'll try to devise an empirical test and see how things go. What's the bet I'll get conflicting data?
Al, I really wouldn't know what the temp is to ruin HSS. If I blue it I kick myself anyway... it's a bad habit to get into. If I sharpen all my tools as though they're CS, then I won't accidentally "cook" one after sharpening several HSS's. Been there, done that, learnt my lesson.
Stirlo, bluing is just when the steel starts turning a dark, gun-metal blue for a few mm around the worked face, a closer look'll show a small "rainbow effect" kinda like an oil slick. It stays this colour when it cools. It'll blue well before it actually starts glowing any colour at all... but I still wouldn't touch it with bare skin.
- Andy Mc
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6th April 2006, 12:10 AM #15Originally Posted by soundmanIf you never made a mistake, you never made anything!
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