Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 15
-
24th June 2018, 01:34 AM #1New Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2015
- Location
- United States
- Posts
- 1
What to use for sealing the ends of logs.
Need suggestions on what to use for sealing the end of logs(to stop them from splitting) to dry them out before turning them later.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
24th June 2018 01:34 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
24th June 2018, 09:53 AM #2GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- Townsville. Tropical Nth Qld.
- Posts
- 1,244
I just use old plastic house paint, get it from garage sales. I have used Mobicer M, but as it stays sticky forever, it gets on everything. BTW, what state are you in Richard?
-
24th June 2018, 10:32 AM #3
Use a wax emulsion product that generally are made up of 50% wax...50% water
This product is designed for sealing log ends...it is indeed a timber sealer!
'Caltex' sell a product here in OZ, in 20L container...you should easily find someone who sells similar in your neck of the woods...MMMapleman
-
24th June 2018, 05:05 PM #4
Anchorseal is a usual product in the States; an emulsion of 50% wax and 50% water, water cleanup.
Surplus latex paint takes many applications over time, also water cleanup; cheapest option though.
I've also used canning wax directly.
For all these, you can coat both ends of the log endwise up in a single session, by placing the log on a cluster of spiky gum balls, flipping the log for the second surface. The spikes leave a minimal footprint of the supports.
Cheers,
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
-
24th June 2018, 07:26 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
- Location
- Mornington Peninsula
- Posts
- 2,744
-
24th June 2018, 10:33 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
- Location
- South Africa
- Posts
- 950
-
25th June 2018, 04:56 AM #7GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2014
- Location
- Seattle, Washington, USA
- Posts
- 1,857
I've used old, thickened paint in the past, and I've also just used PVA wood glue. Both seem to have worked pretty well. No major problems yet.
-
25th June 2018, 07:26 AM #8GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- McBride BC Canada
- Posts
- 3,543
For the tens of millions of board feet of lumber that come out of our mills, green or blue spray paint is used.
I use left over interior house paint. The sole objective is to slow down the rate of water loss from the cut ends of the log.
Acrylic interior house paint might be best as it will bind with the wet wood surface. Hydrophobic oily stuff should just sit on top.
Most of my wood carvings are western red cedar. Nothing was done to prevent cracking.
Little cracks all over. Ignore them and carve right through them. New totem poles and story poles are done the same.
Chip off 1-2cm sap wood (goes rotten/punky) and start carving, wet or dry.
Another trick is to cut out 1/4 of the log, right to the center.
Most totem poles are like this, only carved over 2/3 of the surface.
-
25th June 2018, 07:26 PM #9
Log end sealed with wax emulsion (Australian Blackwood)
Note that the grain orientation has not been obscured...an imperative for the sawmiller!
Understand also,that a lot of paints are indeed toxic,particularly the older variety
Wax n water is a much 'cleaner' choice IMO...MMMapleman
-
28th June 2018, 10:40 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Aug 2017
- Location
- Canberra
- Posts
- 587
I use the cheapest pva glue money can buy. Very impressed so far!
-
29th June 2018, 10:27 PM #11
I use a wide variety of whatever I have to hand. Plastic ceiling paint, watered down PVA around 50/50, remnants of varnish in old spray cans, old wipe on poly that is going off mixed with some thinners, even BLO at a pinch, turpentine and styrofoam. There is always something lying around.
Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
-
5th July 2018, 01:04 AM #12SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Aug 2017
- Location
- Canberra
- Posts
- 587
Are you talking about lead paint???? If anyone has a tin of that still I'd be amazed!
I guess we could argue that whatever we use could leach deep into the wood.
Wax is good but just about anything that can create a barrier is just as good.
Don't waste time and money just use whats easily available, cheap and easy to apply!
-
5th July 2018, 02:19 AM #13GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- McBride BC Canada
- Posts
- 3,543
You won't ever find much paint of any kind or glue to "leach" into the wood since the wood is fresh and full-wet with sap water.
Just clog up the cut end to slow down the rate of water loss. That's about all you can do to reduce the amount of splitting/checking.
I do like the idea of using something fairly grain transparent as an aid for the miller. Old glue?
I don't care as any log pieces I get are quite straight and symmetrical cylinders with predictable grain.
-
5th July 2018, 09:24 AM #14
Indeed i am talking about paint...and glue or other inorganic compounds.The log gets sliced right...and the due process does produce particulate that not doubt coats the environment and surrounds.I prefer my work area is 'free' of such contaminants hence i think about what products i use...however,each to their own...MM
Mapleman
-
5th July 2018, 09:28 AM #15
Similar Threads
-
Sealing the blank ends
By plantagenon in forum WOODTURNING - PEN TURNINGReplies: 3Last Post: 13th April 2012, 05:10 PM -
Sealing the ends of melamine boards
By Dengue in forum FINISHINGReplies: 6Last Post: 11th August 2011, 10:56 PM -
Sealing the ends of wood
By don716 in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 17Last Post: 17th September 2008, 08:56 AM -
Sealing Ends
By PHTS in forum TIMBERReplies: 7Last Post: 30th April 2005, 09:14 AM -
sealing the ends
By S Hayward in forum FINISHINGReplies: 10Last Post: 17th October 2000, 08:10 AM