Thread: Segmented with Aluminium

Originally Posted by Fumbler

Team, can anyone guide me as to how thick can i go to incorporate aluminium in a turning project?. I'd like to find out early rather than later, if you get my drift.......

Having never really used aluminium in a turning project, but I would say really there’s no limit.
I’ve seen plenty use aluminium on lathe projects quite successfully.
But your question could do with some more content.

Cheers Matt.

Thin strips as i want to incorporate it in a new gear knob i want to turn

Yep, no limit.

You'll probably have to adjust your normal technique to get an acceptable finish, though.

I've found that:
1. Scrapers are the go. Something with thickness to minimise chatter and preferably a small contact area at the cut. I use a bull-nosed one.
2. The tool-rest wants to be solid and as close to the work-piece as possible, esp. if using large(ish) thicknesses of ally. (But we all do that all the time anyway, right? )
3. Light cuts at lower than normal speeds work better. If you get chatter after the trailing edge of the ally, you're cutting too deep.
4. Hand-sand afterwards, unless you like 'glitter' in the grain. Same principle as working dark (ebony?) inserts in a light coloured wood
5. It's easier to successfully turn a blank that's mostly ally than it is to turn mostly wood. Go figure!

(I went through a phase where I inlaid 1/2-1"(ish) ally and/or copper disks into everything. Glad I grew out of that; everything I made looked so... Copper-Arty '70-ish! )

[QUOTE=Skew ChiDAMN!!;2213367]
4. Hand-sand afterwards, unless you like 'glitter' in the grain. Same principle as working dark (ebony?) inserts in a light coloured wood[QUOTE]
Can you expand on this. How does hand sanding avoid this, and compared to what?

(I went through a phase where I inlaid 1/2-1"(ish) ally and/or copper disks into everything. Glad I grew out of that; everything I made looked so... Copper-Arty '70-ish! )

Oh dear. I'm working on a cabinet at the moment with no contrasting timbers, and the only colour distinction being the brass hinges. To create a bit of an aesthetic tie in/repetition, I'm experimenting with brass inserts in the pulls. Perhaps this is a phase all new turner's must go through.

Originally Posted by LanceC

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

4. Hand-sand afterwards, unless you like 'glitter' in the grain. Same principle as working dark (ebony?) inserts in a light coloured wood

Can you expand on this. How does hand sanding avoid this, and compared to what?

Often when sanding, the dust from one wood will embed in the fibres of another. Normally not an issue, barely noticeable, if at all.

However with highly contrasting timbers you may end up with an obvious smudge of colour that just won't sand out on the lathe because it's the method of sanding that causes it. Or in this case, particles of ally embedded in the wood.

The usual fix is to hand sand with the lathe stopped, trying to sand in such a way that you're not moving grit from one material onto the other.

Oh dear. I'm working on a cabinet at the moment with no contrasting timbers, and the only colour distinction being the brass hinges. To create a bit of an aesthetic tie in/repetition, I'm experimenting with brass inserts in the pulls. Perhaps this is a phase all new turner's must go through.

I think it's something every turner should add to their arsenal, but not necessarily to try it with every piece they make over a year or two.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

The usual fix is to hand sand with the lathe stopped, trying to sand in such a way that you're not moving grit from one material onto the other.

Ahhh, got it! I thought you meant that rather than power/rotary sanding, you held the sanding medium in your hand with the lathe spinning, and was struggling to understand how that made any difference.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

The usual fix is to hand sand with the lathe stopped, trying to sand in such a way that you're not moving grit from one material onto the other.

The simplest way to prevent contamination is to apply a couple of coats of sanding sealer before you start sanding.

Jim

Thanks for the tips and as I have had experience with dust transfer whilst using Silver Ash and Wenge, I’ll be sanding with vacuum attached.