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Thread: Sharpening

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim the Timber Turner
    I’m going to buy into this one.

    One last comment: I didn’t say it was cheap to set up a complete system.

    Check out the Tru-grind at www.woodcuttools.com

    Shes a "can of worms" this thread I reckon!!:eek:
    The website needs a - in it. Its
    www.woodcut-tools.com

    That will get you all there!

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  3. #32
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    Thanks for all the responses guys. I guess i'll freehand a few but I am also going to try the sabre jig from Carrolls - see http://www.cws.au.com/cgi/index.cgi/..._id=1107398012

    regards,

    AD

  4. #33
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    Another handy thing about being able to freehand: if you're turning somewhere that jigs aren't available, you won't have to choose between stopping once you've blunted all the tools at hand or having to ask someone else to do the deed.

    Sure, use a jig(s) at home if you prefer, but learning to sharpen freehand is one step closer to mastering all the skills involved in turning.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!
    Another handy thing about being able to freehand: if you're turning somewhere that jigs aren't available, you won't have to choose between stopping once you've blunted all the tools at hand or having to ask someone else to do the deed.

    Sure, use a jig(s) at home if you prefer, but learning to sharpen freehand is one step closer to mastering all the skills involved in turning.
    I agree with you there Skew-100%

  6. #35
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    Sharpening with out a jig can take some time to master , especially on finger nail type gouges. Somewhere here there is a thread on doing this via piece of doweling shaped and hollowed out like a gouge. I thought this was good advice for some wishing to pick up the skills easily and cheaply.

    I for one go for doing it with out a jig and as it has already been stated its part of the wood turners skill base.

    But it aint for everyone! Heres another link to a jig that has some merit especially for the long grinds

    http://members.ozemail.com.au/~kjeev...heligrind.html
    Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso


  7. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bodgy
    I luvs ya, Stu.

    You've just given me an item for my first attempt at casting!

    A little more detail of yr jig would help, although removes a bit of the challenge.
    More details here........

    My Sharpening Stuff


    Enjoy!

  8. #37
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    Free hand or with a jig?
    I think most of what needed to be said has been said. Therefore I will only tell you what the students say. Even if I teach them to sharpen free hand during the 5 days training course, 80% of them have bought a sharpening gig after having worn out half of the length of their gouges trying free hand.
    True, sharpening is part of the knowledge of the woodturners, but you have to realize that probably you will not be able to turn every day for several hours, therefore it might be far more economical to buy (or construct) a jig, and in addition you turning will always be very smooth. I am convinced buying a jig is a worth investment that repays itself in many ways.<O</O
    http://www.la-truciolara.com/
    La Truciolara is the workshop where I do my shavings.

  9. #38
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    Default Which one?

    G'day,

    This is a very timely discussion as I'm about to further set up my shed (don't tell SWMBo, but I love it ).

    I'm looking to for a jig with a simple flat surface as a rest to freehand sharpen with, nothing more other than it has to be sturdy and not some of the flimsy jigs you see around the place.

    I've narrowed it down to one of two jigs, both of which come from Carroll's Woodcraft Supplies.

    1. the Grinding Jig CJ-04 which sells for $49
    http://www.cws.au.com/cgi/index.cgi/..._id=1107369825

    2. the Sabre Sharpening Centre which sells for $45?
    http://www.cws.au.com/cgi/index.cgi/..._id=1107398012

    What I like about the Sabre Sharpening Centre is that it has a longer bed and looks from what I can work out a bit stronger in design.

    What I don't give a 2 hoot about is the tool holders that come with no. 2 as I want to freehand sharpen. The lack of ability to collapse the jigs doesn't come into it as they'll be permantely set up on the left of the g/grinder with a white al/oxide wheel.

    I had a look at the Sturdy REst and Slide but don't like how the tool rest seems to be so small.
    http://www.shop.woodcut-tools.com/pr...od=229&xSec=12

    I'm looking at one of the jigs from Carroll's because I want something strong that'll last and I don't have the materials to make one myself. So, which of the two do you lot think?

    Thanks for your help in advance.

    (Bugger, they're small pics. If you can't see them with a maginfying glass have a look at the websites for 'em - well they're tiny on my 23" screen lol)
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  10. #39
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    Waldo, I'd not pay $50 or so for any of that stuff, but then that is me, I'd rather spend $5 on some steel and bolts and make them myself, they are NOT hard to make.

    You can make some really stout units from wood as well.

    Go look at them, see how easy they are to adjust etc, that would make the sale for me.

    Cheers!

  11. #40
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    G'day Stu,

    Fair comment, I'll have a look at a few things I could make it out of at Bunnies and maybe go from there and see what transpires.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  12. #41
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    You tell 'im, Stu!

    Waldo, I still maintain that the basic gouge, scraper and skew profiles are simple to learn to freehand. Given a decent toolrest on the grinder, IMHO anyone who hasn't the co-ordination to pick these forms up fairly quickly shouldn't be allowed to handle anything sharp for their own safety's sake, let alone poke sharp things at rapidly rotating masses.

    The ladys' finger profile is the one most people come to grief with, and happily for us that's the jig that Stu has taken so many pix of. You have a shed, the tools and the ability... so build one!
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  13. #42
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    G'day Skew,

    I'm not looking for a jig to take away from sharpening freehand, no worries there, just looking at a tool rest to get and hold my angles to the wheel.

    I've figured out a few bits I can adapt so that I've got the basic structure of it made from galvanised steel or similar, so a bit of pottering around in the shed tomorrow should do the trick.

    So a visit to Bunnies is in order, which I'll do on Saturday when I get the cornice, a bit more acrhitrave and skirting for the office.



    (can't figure why I haven't received any emails saying I've had replies :confused: )
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  14. #43
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    Waldo, that Sabre (blue one) is a copy of what I bought as a Hiturn (red one)

    I reckon it is good 'cos it has slots in the base so you can set up a couple of sets of bolts & wack it on & off either wheel in a hurry.

    Look at the pics I posted, see how there is a strip of Ali angle that stays on the bench as a stop for it to slide upto each time I put it on & a couple of sets of bolts with wing nuts infront of each wheel?

    I also have a rest similar to the Jig CJ-04 but it is back in the box it came in.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  15. #44
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    Chris, just FYI I have the rest in the first thumbnail & find it quite sturdy & easy to set. I've used it for grinding plane irons & chisels.

    I paid $25 at the wood show about 2-3 years ago tho'


    Cheers...............Sean


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

  16. #45
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    Question Why the double grind

    Hi Stu in Tokyo.

    I don't understand the purpose of the double grind on your bowl gouge alla Eli Avisera?
    I've only ever had one bevel which works fine. Good if you could explain.

    regards

    Gino

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