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19th November 2008, 06:42 PM #1Hewer of wood
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Sharpening tips #1 - small tools, or bits
So you have an aftermarket platform and it's too deep for small turning tools or small bits. Or manipulating a scraper bit is difficult - hard to swing evenly or too hot to handle.
Pic no. 1 is one solution for short-shaft tools. Just clamp an even thickness bit of hardwood to the platform so the tool handle has clearance. Also useful for Oland bits that have been glued into the shaft provided there's enough base and bit length to match and press together.
Pic no. 2 is actually Rodent's tip and I hope you don't mind me posting my version Rodney.
Just an offcut of steel plate, with one or more corners drilled and tapped to take a screw to hold a scraper bit.
This offcut is pretty rough and doesn't rotate smoothly without a bit of lube. Ubeaut Talc works well.
Pic no. 3 is from the Berger website; adapted, would be good for removable Oland tips.
Haven't tried this yet. Thicknessed hardwood might work just as well, or maybe two bits of plastic chopping board glued together, or Acetyl or whatever. Would work for as well for Oland bits glued into a shaft, clamped to the shaft as in the pic. (The bit in the pic btw is Berger's Hollowing Tool: http://www.berger.co.nz/showitem.php?item_id=27 ).Cheers, Ern
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19th November 2008 06:42 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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19th November 2008, 07:13 PM #2
I like the 2nd one with the removable tip screwed to a larger plate.
Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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20th November 2008, 01:07 AM #3
Ingenious!
Cheers,
Ed
Do something that is stupid and fun today, then run like hell !!!
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20th November 2008, 02:19 AM #4Banned
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Very clever Mr.!
And who said they've seen an know it all...?
Just brilliant to add to my "jiggermajigs"
Thanks rsser, good info...!
Cheers
RBTCO
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20th November 2008, 10:45 AM #5
Ern good tips,thanks
Pic no. 2 is actually Rodent's tip and I hope you don't mind me posting my version Rodney.
Just an offcut of steel plate, with one or more corners drilled and tapped to take a screw to hold a scraper bit.
This offcut is pretty rough and doesn't rotate smoothly without a bit of lube. Ubeaut Talc works well.
Of course with this its freehand. But if you hold the bar vertically its easy to twirl it around on the grinder.
Hmm, it makes sense to me, sori no picsInspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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20th November 2008, 02:51 PM #6
..tips Ern.
And, you can also leave the tips in the tool and swinging the grinder..... e.g. use a diamond bit in a rotary tool and freehand grind the tip. Just a more aggressive version of the diamond hone. No need to turn away from the lathe if it's hagging in reach above the lathe. Works equally as well on larger tools. Then use the jiggy things if and when you need to re-establish angles and profiles.
NeilStay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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20th November 2008, 03:11 PM #7Hewer of wood
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Good to know that Neil. Had been pondering trying the Carbatec small diamond wheel mounted in a drill - for TCT bits actually. Inc. router bits.
Hughie, your paws must be steadier than mine, which is not saying much {Cheers, Ern
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20th November 2008, 11:29 PM #8
Ern, a good diamond wheel/bit will readily grind carbide (and HSS) but I was suggesting that as another alternative for small turning tips. I'm not sure about using the wheel freehand to grind router bits.... especially if they have dual cutting edges as both cutting wings have to be precision ground to exactly the same width to ensure that both do the cutting. My freehand control is not that precise, but OK for for turning tips and tools.
NeilStay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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22nd November 2008, 12:35 AM #9Ern, a good diamond wheel/bit will readily grind carbide (and HSS) but I was suggesting that as another alternative for small turning tips. I'm not sure about using the wheel freehand to grind router bits.... especially if they have dual cutting edges as both cutting wings have to be precision ground to exactly the same width to ensure that both do the cutting. My freehand control is not that precise, but OK for for turning tips and tools.
Nah its not that difficult, once you've seen it done you would be up and running in a few minutes
The diamond wheel will do it fine on the carbide tips etc, good for touch ups not for any major removal. I grind...touch em up only on the flat of front area of the router bit, otherwise eventually the shape is go.Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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22nd November 2008, 12:35 PM #10
Ern - As Hughie recommends, and as you probably already know, only grind the face of carbide inserts of router bit to maintain profile and balance. I was going to add some comments on how I sharpen my router bits, but thought it was a bit off topic/forum focus, but now that Hughie has nudged the discussion in that direction... here goes.
I use a credit card diamond plate seated in a thin profile support (shaped to allow plate to reach fully into the chip clearance gap) which is secured to a bench or vice and then rub the cutting face of the bit against the plate until I can feel a full length cutting edge again. I use a similar approach with forstner bits. So it's back to bringing the tool to the grinder and perhaps not as quick as Hughie's method but it allows me to get a more accurate result than I know I could get freehand with the 'dremel' and diamond bit.
NeilStay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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23rd November 2008, 08:10 AM #11Hewer of wood
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Thanks guys.
Cheers, Ern
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