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Thread: shear scraper

  1. #1
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    Default shear scraper

    I have some time this weekend and want to now make a teardrop scraper for cleaning interior walls and transition areas. I have all the parts, but need to know what type/thickness of steel to hunt down this week. Any cheap suggestions? I would rather not go buy pre-done scraper head. I really am liking making stuff on my own, cheap and done right, or I can only blame myself. Thanks.

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  3. #2
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    Hi daddy, I'm also a guy who love it to make my own stuff as much as possible.
    Made multifacenet scrapers from a blade of a racing skate. This blade is 2mm thick,
    Just a matter of grinding the shape and drill a hole
    Ad

  4. #3
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    Hi Daddy, I regularly make a scraper by silver soldering a piece heavy duty machine hack saw blade to a piece of 30 x 10mm mild steel bar. They work well.
    Jim
    Sometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...

  5. #4
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    If you can find an old planer blade they make great teardrop scrapers. I scored one about 3mm thick and 35mm wide (no idea what it came off ). I used a 1mm thick cutting wheel in a 4" angle grinder to cut the basic shape out and refined the shape on a normal grinder. I have a set of special drill bits to drill the mounting hole in the HSS but you could just cut a slot in from the side with the angle grinder if need be.
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  6. #5
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    I made a multitip scraper from an old metalwork file. Only the tip is from the file, he works wel. Its a copT of the Sorby rs 200kt.

  7. #6
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    18 years of hockey and the first of many solutions is in my garage, the multiple pairs of old skates. Should provide more than enough to start with. I knew I would eventually be able to justify my packrat tendecies..."I might really need this someday." So any reasonable thickness steel should suffice. Where are the oddest places you all find your metal?

  8. #7
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    Like TTiT, I find that old HSS jointer & thicknesser blades are ideal.

    They do take a bit of extra tooling to work though, but it's worth it.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  9. #8
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    Quote " Where are the oddest places you all find your metal?"

    I do a little metal working so I pick up stray steel as well as stray wood lying about.

    My oddest piece was a hunk of corroded, concrete covered, steel bar, 1/2 X 3/8 inch that had been used as a concrete form stake.

    One day out of curiosity I spark tested it on the grinder and it was high carbon steel.

    I put a curved nose, 80 degree grind on it and it is one of my most used tools. It is a little over two feet long with a fat handle so does not bounce around. I use it for hollowing bowls and the outside also.

    When I use it I turn the grinder on along with the lathe, cut a bit, give it a swipe on the grinder, cut a bit, etc.

    I have a forged bicycle crank that I'm grinding down to make the hole where the pedal goes in into a circular cutting tool. I'm using the end as a heavy scraper until it is ground thin enough.
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  10. #9
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    Hi all,

    Done this before, but had lots of issues drilling the tool steel....eventually used a tile drill!

    Anyone got better a solution?

    GC

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by GC View Post
    Hi all,

    Done this before, but had lots of issues drilling the tool steel....eventually used a tile drill!

    Anyone got better a solution?

    GC
    I bought a set of what I think are carbide tipped drill bits from a bloke based in Vic. They weren't cheap but they do the job very nicely in HSS and go through tool steel like butter. I posted details of them way back on this thread.
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by TTIT View Post
    I bought a set of what I think are carbide tipped drill bits from a bloke based in Vic. They weren't cheap but they do the job very nicely in HSS and go through tool steel like butter. I posted details of them way back on this thread.

    Superb drill bits....they go through anything effortlessly and I picked up spare sets from trash and treasure markets brand new for much less than the normal price more than 10 years ago, and still working well.
    I don't think the stall holder knew the quality of these bits he was flogging for next to nothing. I just had to buy them as spares.
    The first set I bought was in 1993 from the wood show and at the time they set me back $70, which was a lot but well worth every cent.
    It is beyond me why they are not sold in tool shops or hardware chains

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evan Pavlidis View Post
    Superb drill bits.....................
    It is beyond me why they are not sold in tool shops or hardware chains
    ...'cos then every bugga would be making their own scrapers and they'd never get to sell another and blokes wouldn't keep wreckin' their soggy old HSS bits and have to replace so many
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by TTIT View Post
    ...'cos then every bugga would be making their own scrapers and they'd never get to sell another and blokes wouldn't keep wreckin' their soggy old HSS bits and have to replace so many
    My sentiments entirely.

    I am doing a bit of research on the definitions, and if I understand correctly "shear" scraping or cutting is defined as such only by the angle between the blade and the grain. It would therefore follow that no blade is a "shear" blade in itself, because any blade can be used in shear mode. So, if something is sold as shear something, I take it to mean only that it is supposed to work best for that mode of cutting. Am I missing something?

    In particular, if a skew is designed to shear (as Skew said in 2005) and a gouge can be used to cut and shear, why are only certain scrapers defined "shear scrapers"?

  15. #14
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    Carbide tipped hey, will have to Ebay now.......
    Thanks for the tips

    GC

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