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Thread: 3 point Steady

  1. #1
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    Question 3 point Steady

    Hi Folks
    Having fun turning little bowls and I am now trying spindles but I get alot of chatter around the middle of the spindle as I try to turn it down into a narrow cylinder shape similar if your like to a wand
    I'm using a Carbatec MC1018 which while it has limitations is suitable for me to date!
    www.carbatec.com.au/carba-tec-economy-mini-lathe_c19865
    I was looking at various suppliers like Pops Shed, Carbatec and Carrolls web sites but they seem too inflexible so I'm looking at this one from GPW
    www.garypye.com/Lathe-s/Accessories/Fabricated-Steady-Rest-p719.html
    Anyone got any thoughts on this one or others out there that I'm unaware of?
    Or is there another solution to my problem for an L plated turner!
    Thanks for your help

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  3. #2
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    Don't know what that GPW one is like, but there are heaps of hime made designs on this forum. Do an advanced search on "steady" in the title comes up with heaps to look at
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  4. #3
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    Don't over tighten the tailstock.It can induce a bend as the work gets thinner and have this effect.Try steading it near the middle by hooking a finger over the shaft as you are turning.You may need to use a glove.
    Ted

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by turnerted View Post
    Don't over tighten the tailstock.It can induce a bend as the work gets thinner and have this effect.Try steading it near the middle by hooking a finger over the shaft as you are turning.You may need to use a glove.
    Ted
    Hi wolfie,
    I am with ted,,, if you are turning on a mini lathe
    I wouldn, t think you need a steady,,,, just my 2 bob, s
    worth,,,,
    Cheers smiife

  6. #5
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    Hi Wolfbunny,
    +1 for ted and smiife agree about not over tightening the tailstock it does tend to create distortion in the length of a spindle,I have turned a lot of spindle's and never used a steady just my hand. If you do need one and I am sure there are job's that would warrant one, as dai sensei states there are many types described here in the forum.
    Regards Rod.

  7. #6
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    Ditto what the others have indicated.

    The pinkies are the best steady.

    If you hold too tight it gets hot , back of.

    If you push too hard on the wood with the tool pinkies get too hot, back of.
    Jim Carroll
    One Good Turn Deserves Another. CWS, Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut, Tormek, Woodfast
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  8. #7
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    Some of the issues you are facing with chatter could come down to forcing a dull tool to cut. Very sharp tools that permit taking delicate cuts helps to remove chatter - plus the things the others have said. On a standard length bed on a mini to midi lathe my preference is no steady at all, as they are more hinderance than help to me.

  9. #8
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    Lightbulb I'm calling it the craw technique!

    Hi All
    Thanks for your responses.
    I believe my tools to be sharp but my technique would probably come under question by many!
    BUt nonetheless a few more hours of practice and patience using pine and while I wouldn't say I'm a pro I managed to do a few to a reasonably happy standard. Now if I can repeat that again this weekend I'll be happier!
    Using the skew is hard enough but now with the craw technique geez elevated levels of concentration required!
    I did have one experience with the tail stock too tight and the wood squealing like a wailing ghost!
    So for the time being I've decided to endeavour without the 3pt steady

  10. #9
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    For spindle/balusters to 30 mm I use this 2 wheel steady made from ply wood, the bearings need to be replaced due to running at 1800 rpm but that works for me, not everyone's preferred choice!
    Attached Images Attached Images

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