Thread: Sheer scraping with square shafted carbide tools

G'day Danny if you get a square piece of steel and insert the cutter at 45degrees.
So as the cutter is presented at 45degrees without having to hold the chisel on an angle. Hope that makes sense.
Mick

Originally Posted by rtyuiop

Hi folks,

Anyone have any opinions on doing something similar to the sorby turnmaster 45 degree head by making a little cradle for the shaft of an easy wood tool to hold it diagonally on the tool rest?

Mainly wondering if there is a safety aspect which I haven't considered!

Danny

It should work, just watch your over hang.

Originally Posted by rtyuiop

Hi folks,

Anyone have any opinions on doing something similar to the sorby turnmaster 45 degree head by making a little cradle for the shaft of an easy wood tool to hold it diagonally on the tool rest?

Mainly wondering if there is a safety aspect which I haven't considered!

Danny

On an alternate note, I'd like to add a shaving guard, as on the Easy Wood, to the end of the Sorby Turnmaster. Anyone done this?

Regards from Perth

Derek

I gave this a try last night with a cradle cut out of a pine offcut. In principle it seems to work, although I struggled to get a clean cut with a round carbide cutter (it self propelled across the face of the wood a little, giving a wavey pattern - but this might partly due to the very soft wood), a square cutter worked pretty well.

I'm going to try improving the cradle by cutting a new one to fit onto the tool rest instead of just sitting on top of it, but it seems like a workable idea so far!

Danny

I would have thought with a circular cutter it would make little difference as the angle of attack as the single point of contact is so small but on the other hand you are only taking tiny cuts anyway so not sure.

I often shear scrape with the square cutter by just pivoting the shaft. Like shear scraping with a bowl gouge, you are cutting off centre but only taking a tiny amount off, so it is all about tool control but safe as long as you know what you are doing.

I was getting nice long curly shavings with the circle cutter which I don't get with it square on the rest, so I think it may have made a difference - just that I am not steady enough to do the same on a curve!

Originally Posted by rtyuiop

I was getting nice long curly shavings with the circle cutter ...

Sounds like cutting not shear scraping. They should be tiny feathers coming off

Originally Posted by rtyuiop

Hi folks,

Anyone have any opinions on doing something similar to the sorby turnmaster 45 degree head by making a little cradle for the shaft of an easy wood tool to hold it diagonally on the tool rest?

Mainly wondering if there is a safety aspect which I haven't considered!

Danny

I would just roll it over and cut, just like using a skew or a regular half round nose flat scraper. Put your hand not holding the tool on top of the tool near the tool rest to give it a bit of down force.

If the corner of the square shaft is notching your tool rest, you could round off the corners with some sand paper.

If the tool is scooting on the tool rest you might be taking too big a bite. As Dai Sensi points out, sheer scraping should be bringing off tissue paper thin flakes.

I have the big Easy Finisher which I use for roughing and hollowing hard abrasive timber. I sharpen the carbide on a flat credit card diamond hone. The Easy Wood Tool literature says to use a new bit for finishing. I bought a new one and tried it but find the steel scrapers do better.

I don't think carbide is as sharp as high speed or carbon steel.

I use freshly sharpened and honed scrapers for the final cut before sanding.

Originally Posted by rtyuiop

Hi folks,

Anyone have any opinions on doing something similar to the sorby turnmaster 45 degree head by making a little cradle for the shaft of an easy wood tool to hold it diagonally on the tool rest?

Mainly wondering if there is a safety aspect which I haven't considered!

Danny

Hello rtyuiop & Derek,
1. Remember Derek that with the guard/shavings deflector you are looking over the guard to cut not through the guard.
2. I think carbide inserts are the bees knees. No sharpening really and no tool shortening. They cut like a scraper (in presentation) at the speed of a gouge.
3. They have the same profile at the end of the turning session as they do at the beginning.
4. However, I am not going to debate traditional vs. carbide inserts. If you use flat bottom cutters, then they are essentially for a scraping like function. This
includes the rougher. That is presentation is a neutral position and held parallel for virtually all cuts. But with the rougher, if it is slightly curved at the cutting edge then it is more versatile and prevents the "horns" catching, or leaving scratches. Of course, they can cut on their side left or right without changing the angle.
5. However, if you buy cutters with a round bottom (not flat) then you are in a better position to cut and scrape, using the same tool by presenting the cutter at an angle and getting the sweet spot to cut.
6. In relation to the Sorby Turnmaster which I also use, I find that the overhang can be a problem, but you can position the head to cut at 45 degrees as the head provides.
7. So I think that a round bottom on the cutter would overcome the problem of using a cradle, unless provided for like the Turnmaster.
8. I know that some people place a washer under the cutter, which should also give a little more flexibility. There is also the matter of dished and flat cutters.
Hope this adds to the debate. Drillit.