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Thread: Sheoak handle cracks
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21st November 2022, 09:36 PM #1
Sheoak handle cracks
Hi all,
I've turned a couple of sheoak handles.
The first one below has a crack on both sides that seems to be opening up a little each day.
IMG_2026.jpg IMG_2027.jpg IMG_2028.jpg
The second handle, made after cracks appeared in my first attempt, has some hairline cracks in it too.
IMG_2024.jpg IMG_2025.jpg
These handles were made for an ice cream scoop.
IMG_2029.jpg
My question is; can the cracks be filled with super glue? If so, will they hold?
After making the handle, I'm now thinking I probably should have made a ferrule and/or fitted a small pin through the handle and hole in the paddle.
IMG_2030.jpg
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22nd November 2022, 09:15 AM #2
ferrules
Yup ferrules are a must unfortunately , but you can make them very fancy to match you're doing. If it any consolation Sheoak cracks for me as well
Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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22nd November 2022, 11:00 AM #3
Thanks for the info, Hughie!
Do you think glue is an option here?
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22nd November 2022, 02:50 PM #4
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clarification
Hi
can someone tell me why I think this timber is Bulloake rather than Sheoak? What have I got wrong in my learning?
Kind regards
CRaatz
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22nd November 2022, 03:03 PM #5
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22nd November 2022, 05:41 PM #6
We are all still learning!
ID'ing cut timber from images is a mugs game. My guess is it's "bulloake" from IMG_2028.
Once the timber is cut it can become quite difficult to differentiate between individual species. Botanists identify species using a range of "keys" - for "sheoaks" one of the most significant keys includes the seed capsules / pods.Mobyturns
In An Instant Your Life CanChange Forever
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22nd November 2022, 11:00 PM #7
sorry missed this in the first answer
Do you think glue is an option here?
Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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23rd November 2022, 08:11 AM #8
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23rd November 2022, 06:23 PM #9
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24th November 2022, 08:58 PM #10
I'll strongly recommend remounting the handle(s) in the lathe and fitting a ferrule if at all possible.
Super-glue will work quite nicely as a cosmetic fix BUT... the haft on that scoop looks very short to me, so any 'heavy' scooping action will apply a LOT of leverage over a short distance inside the bore.
I suspect that in use these cracks (or possibly new ones) will quickly become a point of failure.
Much better to have a nice, looooong haft to handle for this sort of leverage and even then I'd prefer a ferrule as well.
(I realise that fresh ice-cream tends to be lovely, soft & creamy. But can you guarantee that the scoop won't be used on ice-cream that has been in the freezer over winter and would score highly on the Mohs scale?)
- Andy Mc
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25th November 2022, 10:15 AM #11
I would have put my money on Bull Oak or Hairy Oak as I still struggle to tell the difference (except Bull Oak is much harder, which is difficult to tell in pix
), but it certainly looks a little dark for She Oak. These "Oak" timbers are spectacular, but split readily in the log. I suspect there was either a slight, virtually invisible, crack present in the first place or it was not quite seasoned enough. Ferrules and glue will help, but if you have more of the same timber, I would be tempted to make up some new handles after inspecting the ends of the blanks carefully for hairline cracks.
P1070666 (Medium).JPGP1070667 (Medium).JPGP1070669 (Medium).JPG
In the pix above the butchers' steel has a ferrule at both ends of the handle. The scales on the knife handles do not have anything like that but are much thinner of course. The trim pieces on the corners of the knife blocks are also Bull Oak/Hairy Oak. As I mentioned before, I have difficulty identifying which is which despite having cut them from logs myself. Over time these timbers darken quite considerably.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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25th November 2022, 12:18 PM #12
I agree. Other than hardness the only way I have been able to differentiate between Bull Oak / Bulloake & Hairy Oak in images is that Bulloake has more "detail" in the "field" of the grain - somewhat like contours on a topographic map. That is how I made my guess.
Handy having access to the actual wood for an ID.Mobyturns
In An Instant Your Life CanChange Forever
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