Thread: Signing work

I just started signing my work and I have been using a pen just before applying the finish.

Same same, pen under the finish. Name, date and wood.

hi i have had a self inking stamp made and stamp my projects prior to spraying, and it is protected from ware in the future.
john t.

CD marking texta after the finish has been applied

I used to just put my initials on with a felt-pen but as my hands get 'less supple!', it was getting to look more like chook scratchings so I sent a picture of what I wanted to this mob. About $140 and well worth it in my book for a very professional looking mark (IMHO) I can use on all my flat-stuff as well!

I'd show you a pic but I just can't find one at the moment!!

I make my bowls, mushrooms, and weed pots slightly concave on the bottom so that the area I sign doesn't get abraded. I finish the turning, almost always tung oil finish, let dry overnight, sign & number with a permanent sharpy, let dry a couple hours and put on a final coat of finish.

I like the idea of a burning tip or Dremel but have had some accidents with the Dremel. Easier to fix the marking when using a sharpy.

Hi Bob,
I've been signing my work since about 1983, but I have changed it a bit since then.
I use an Artline 200 Black 0.4 Felt Tip, Make, for many years now. A Pen will last approx 7 - 8 months, if you keep the top on.
Nothing has shifted it to date. I find it doesn't work to good on Jarrah.
I never use EEE over the Writing as it is a Abrasive Polish.
The other Polishes do not affect it at all.
So I write my name, Address, Geelong, Australia, then Print the Date, & Print the Wood.
I run the Numbers into one another eg. M9122013. You just have to watch it on 1112013 or 1122013 & similar.
To Close, I'm Proud of my work, so I Sign everything that is possible to Sign.