Thread: Long skinny stick practice!

Great idea about the pin jaws skew, I must remember that. Might not be as much fun, but I'd expect to get a higher success rate.

Originally Posted by tea lady

How many Windsor chair makers are out there?

Apricotripper on the forums comes to mind

.

I agree with Skew ChiDAMN about feeding the wood out slowly from a pin chuck but this will only work if you have a 2 MT taper (or better) in your headstock.

Another tip I'd offer is to grind your skew back further, giving a more acute angle and hone it with a diamond stone not straight off the grinder.

Lastly, use straight grained timber or you'll suffer terrible breakout of the grain where it flexes.

Oh, one last thing, where you use your finger as support - if you smell pork cooking - let go!

Originally Posted by dr4g0nfly

Oh, one last thing, where you use your finger as support - if you smell pork cooking - let go!

My tip for nothing is put a bandaide on it. A fabric one works best! Saves the burning sensation AND the splinters. And kinda slips better on the wood.

Well done. I am not taking the bait...

I googled "Windsor chairs" and now know what they are. Seems that they are not turned, though:

"Our Windsor chairs are crafted using spoke shaves, drawknives and hand planes. Spindles and bows are split from red oak, then whittled and shaved to size for each chair."

The long bits for the back are just dowels, anyway: no beads and coves, so no need for turning. Are there more elaborate models that require it?

Originally Posted by tea lady

My tip for nothing is put a bandaide on it. A fabric one works best! Saves the burning sensation AND the splinters. And kinda slips better on the wood.

But if you don't caress the wood, how can you be one with it if you can't feel its silky smooth skinny body?

Originally Posted by Waldo

But if you don't caress the wood, how can you be one with it if you can't feel its silky smooth skinny body?

I've got three othere fingers and a thumb (last time I counted. ). Its just the main one you want to protect a bit. I got a splinter twice and needed a bandaid anyway to stop the bloodstained look on the timber!

Shaker chairs are all turned. Not quite as skinny as chop sticks though!

Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest

Well done. I am not taking the bait...

I googled "Windsor chairs" and now know what they are. Seems that they are not turned, though:

"Our Windsor chairs are crafted using spoke shaves, drawknives and hand planes. Spindles and bows are split from red oak, then whittled and shaved to size for each chair."

The long bits for the back are just dowels, anyway: no beads and coves, so no need for turning. Are there more elaborate models that require it?

Most components were turned.
Bodging - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Originally Posted by

Most components were turned.
Bodging - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Thanks , now I know about bodging also.

I was only referring to the spindles, though, and the description given made me think that they were not turned:

from the linked Windsor chair - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

"Non ring porous hardwoods such as Maple are stiff and make crisp turnings, and were used for the undercarriage. Ring porous species such as oak, ash and hickory all rive (split) and steam bend nicely. These woods are also straight grained and flexible and thus work well for slender parts such as the spindles."

Another thing in that article that has challenged my ignorance is the statement that green wood blunts tools much more quickly than dry wood. Is that true?

Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest

"Non ring porous hardwoods such as Maple are stiff and make crisp turnings, and were used for the undercarriage. Ring porous species such as oak, ash and hickory all rive (split) and steam bend nicely. These woods are also straight grained and flexible and thus work well for slender parts such as the spindles."

The flexibility ensures the chairs survive, but the spindles are still turned.

Thanks WW. They look about 1/2" x 24", is that right?

Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest

Thanks WW. They look about 1/2" x 24", is that right?

The last ones I turned were 26" x 1/2", tapering to 5/16".

Thanks again, my eyeballing is still pretty good then. I must try some.

Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest

Thanks again, my eyeballing is still pretty good then. I must try some.

With a skew Frank?