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  1. #16
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    Thanks for the video

    my only comment is that I'd use a dead centre instead of your collet chuck (but then that's what I've got)
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

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  3. #17
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    Default skipping rope handles

    Hello Brendan,
    Many thanks. Is your NRS as per the woodcut model.
    I like the idea of using it for coves and the skew for
    bringing to round. I had been using the bedan. So will give it a go. john M.

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker View Post
    Thanks for the video

    my only comment is that I'd use a dead centre instead of your collet chuck (but then that's what I've got)
    Thanks Nick. That's a good idea with the dead centre. I'm not sure that I have one with a 2MT. One problem however would be that when I rounded the end of the handle I like to cut into timber so that I don't get a timber burr around the hole. THis happened at the other end of the handle where I had to round it into the live centre.

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drillit View Post
    Hello Brendan,
    Many thanks. Is your NRS as per the woodcut model.
    I like the idea of using it for coves and the skew for
    bringing to round. I had been using the bedan. So will give it a go. john M.
    G'day John. It's a smaller version of the Woodcut NRS. It's the shape I used to design the Woodcut NRS but simply scaled it up in size for them. I have suggested they make a smaller version but I suppose it will depend on how the bigger one sells. If you want I can send you a template of the one on the video and you can shape one yourself.

    As for the Bedan; I wouldn't be discouraging you from its ongoing use.

  6. #20
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    It is a bit of a worry to see you useing a skew to rough down the blank and not a roughing gouge Brendan , As in a way it give a message to people that have just started to turn and use YouTube as a tool to help in the lerning of woodturning that its a safe thing to use a skew to rough down a blank and to a roughing gouge

    I know in turning it is much like skinning a cat there is 100 ways to get the job done,
    and like most people we do what works for us but sometimes it's not the safest thing to do

    I'm just pointing it out as a safety thing that's all


    And you make reference to hobbyist turner
    do that mean your a hobbyist turner ?
    DANGER!!!!
    I'm Dyslexic Spelling may offend!!!!!

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by nz_carver View Post
    It is a bit of a worry to see you useing a skew to rough down the blank and not a roughing gouge Brendan , As in a way it give a message to people that have just started to turn and use YouTube as a tool to help in the lerning of woodturning that its a safe thing to use a skew to rough down a blank and to a roughing gouge

    I know in turning it is much like skinning a cat there is 100 ways to get the job done,
    and like most people we do what works for us but sometimes it's not the safest thing to do

    I'm just pointing it out as a safety thing that's all


    And you make reference to hobbyist turner
    do that mean your a hobbyist turner ?
    Dave, how exactly is it unsafe. And while you're considering your answer ask yourself is my use if the parting tool unsafe. And what about my use of the scraper? Is that unsafe? I ask these questions because they use similar technique but are just different shaped blades. So I'm really quite bewildered by your comment. Just because it's a skew chisel doesn't mean it can't be used in this way and the fact the timber is mounted between centres eliminates the chance of the wood coming off the lathe. Suggesting this technique is unsafe means you think there is some danger in what I was doing. What is this danger??

    I didn't use a roughing gouge because that would've meant using an extra tool which would've meant putting one tool down and picking another one up. And that eats up time. Not much time I know but it all adds up. And besides there was not point to using a roughing gouge. I achieved the same outcome with the curved skew.

    Hobbyist turner? Now Dave, you know what I do for a living, so why do you ask this question of me? Perhaps I am a full time hobbyist turner because my job certainly stemmed from a hobby. But did I suggest I was putting myself in this category? If so, where?

  8. #22
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    Brendan in relation to Sawdust makers comment on using a dead centre if you did an internal rounding toward the hole where the MT2 would sit this would avoid contacting the metal.

  9. #23
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    I was going to stay out of this but someone has raised a valid safety issue.

    Using a skew chisel in the manner shown i.e. a peeling cut to rough down is dangerous to a beginner.

    Peeling cuts are generally reserved for forming tenons and then you use only half the cutting edge of a 25 mm skew.

    If the angle is not presented correctly you run the risk of taking a shard off the whole corner and spearing yourself, at worst you can split the timber in half.

    The roughing gouge is a much safer tool and was designed for this purpose. You could have done 3/4 of the job with the gouge and saved using 2 chisels.

    The parting tool is generally used on timber that is round and has an even surface contact. If you use a parting tool on timber in the square you generally end up with splintered sides.

  10. #24
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    Dave you've been turning now for 3 or 4 years surely the blokes at Western and more recently Vic Turn fests have brought you out of the Apprentice mode by now. Safety is always paramount but Brendan's Skew use is something I was taught at school in year 10, back then spindle gouges were not around in the forms they are today.

    So what would you have used to do that until they came into being???????

    Isn't this the same use of a skew you use to tapper the end of pen blanks to bushes????

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelinround View Post
    Brendan in relation to Sawdust makers comment on using a dead centre if you did an internal rounding toward the hole where the MT2 would sit this would avoid contacting the metal.
    If I understand you correctly then, yes this could work well but there might be a danger that if this small section of timber is unsupported the risk is that you could tear out the wood as you do this rounding cut.

    For me it would not be feasible because it would add an extra two steps to the process. But as a suggestion for others to consider you make a good point.

    What I was using was effectively a timber dead centre and I use these all the time when making the recorders. I need them to run true so with timber if they aren't then you can true them up easily by taking a light cut or two off.

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by brendan stemp View Post
    ...

    What I was using was effectively a timber dead centre and I use these all the time when making the recorders. I need them to run true so with timber if they aren't then you can true them up easily by taking a light cut or two off.
    Ah, now it becomes clear! Wasn't clear to me that your dead centre was timber
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by View Post
    I was going to stay out of this but someone has raised a valid safety issue.

    Using a skew chisel in the manner shown i.e. a peeling cut to rough down is dangerous to a beginner.

    Peeling cuts are generally reserved for forming tenons and then you use only half the cutting edge of a 25 mm skew.

    If the angle is not presented correctly you run the risk of taking a shard off the whole corner and spearing yourself, at worst you can split the timber in half.
    There is a big "if " here. I wouldn't disagree with this comment but the "if..." is always the caveat with any instruction. IF when using a bowl gouge you don't present the cutting edge correctly then all hell could break loose. IF when hollowing into end grain you take too big a scraping cut then... etc. But the fact is I did present the tool at the correct angle, I was using a curved skew (this certainly reduces the chance of splintering), I did work from the RHS to the LHS again to avoid the chance of large splinters and I was using a 19mm skew which places less stress on the timber than would a 25mm skew. And I was doing this on a piece of timber that measured only 35sq x 170 long, which, if it did come off the lathe shouldn't present too much of a problem to someone wearing a face mask.

    The roughing gouge is a much safer tool and was designed for this purpose. You could have done 3/4 of the job with the gouge and saved using 2 chisels.
    Yes, but IF presented at the wrong angle could result in a shard spearing into the operator or the splitting the timber.

    The parting tool is generally used on timber that is round and has an even surface contact. If you use a parting tool on timber in the square you generally end up with splintered sides.
    WIth the whiff of rat lingering in the air my response is this.

    The video wasn't meant to be an instructional video, just something of interest, showing others an aspect my production process. (In fact I was really just using this project to provide data so I could play with my new editing program).

    If it was meant to be an instructional video then I would've explained a number of the techniques in more detail. So if anyone wants to criticise my technique on safety grounds then, by all means go ahead and do so but don't stop with my use of the skew. Really hook into me and comment on a few other things that were probably more dangerous; e.g using the parting tool and template with the wood spinning at 3000rpm (that's probably the worst thing I did but with those 'IFs' taken out of it, this technique is safe), using the skew with the toe downwards (there's some IFs there), changing the blanks over with the lathe still going and sanding with the tool rest in place.

    , I know my techniques are sometimes (perhaps often) not to your liking but I am confident with what I am doing, have a good enough understanding of the alternatives and dangers but chose to do this process this way because it fitted in with what I was comfortable doing, efficiency, characteristics of the timber and desired finish off the tool. Yep, I could've used a roughing gouge to do those two steps but not as well as with the skew, particularly the straight taper. You might approach the project differently but you might also skin rabbits differently to me.

    Perhaps the biggest mistake I made is not providing a disclaimer at the start of the video highlighting the fact the video was not meant to be instructional. But then again the need to do this irritates me because it means I need to cater to all those who insist on blaming others when they make a mistake. But such is the litigious nature of this world that I might just have to do it.

  14. #28
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    Brendan! This has turned into a lively discussion!

    I understand that your YouTube video was to demonstrate how you as a professional make skipping rope handles in a production environment and you also stated at the opening of this thread "Another result is this video. I thought I would make it to not only show how they were made but also some of the production and turning techniques I used.".

    I have known you for many years, I know you would never consciously promote any unsafe turning practices. As you say there is more than one way to skin a rabbit.

    Ignore the negativity and accept the constructive comments. Keep the YouTube videos coming.
    Russell (aka Mulgabill)
    "It is as it is"

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by brendan stemp View Post
    WIth the whiff of rat lingering in the air my response is this. I have no idea what this is referring to unless it refers to whether or not this has been discussed amongst my peers. It has naturally.

    The video wasn't meant to be an instructional video, just something of interest, showing others an aspect my production process. In your opening sentence you state "I thought I might show you how these are made."
    As a person who is reasonably well known and in fact anyone who demonstrates has a duty to those who watch either in private tuition or public demonstrations via clubs or You Tube to show safe and tried techniques. The power of the demonstrator is phenomenal and that is why companies use the demonstrators they do. Monkey see monkey do.
    (In fact I was really just using this project to provide data so I could play with my new editing program).

    If it was meant to be an instructional video That is the way it came across. then I would've explained a number of the techniques in more detail. So if anyone wants to criticise my technique on safety grounds then, by all means go ahead I have.and do so but don't stop with my use of the skew. Really hook into me and comment on a few other things that were probably more dangerous; e.g using the parting tool and template with the wood spinning at 3000rpm That is a perfectly legitimate technique. (that's probably the worst thing I did but with those 'IFs' taken out of it, this technique is safe),Agreed. using the skew with the toe downwards (there's some IFs there), It works better the right way up changing the blanks over with the lathe still going and sanding with the tool rest in place. Again, in production work perfectly acceptable but it needs to be shown how to do it. I have seen some very burnt hands and bruises because the right techniques or equipment was not used. Spur drives that are hooked over etc.

    , I know my techniques are sometimes (perhaps often) not to your liking That is a personal thing because of my background. but I am confident with what I am doing, have a good enough understanding of the alternatives and dangers but chose to do this process this way because it fitted in with what I was comfortable doing, efficiency, characteristics of the timber and desired finish off the tool. That is acceptable in private. In private yes but this is public. What you do in your own workshop is your business and some techniques that I use to achieve an end I would never teach because unless you know the risks it is dangerous. Yep, I could've used a roughing gouge to do those two steps but not as well as with the skew, The point of my comment about safety above. Square timber is generally roughed down by starting an inch 2 in from the end and working back towards the end but in this case (5: 18 in the video) you put the skew straight in on the end. If you must rough down with a skew (it is a finishing tool) you start with a cut that breaks the corner by going backwards. Then it is what floats your boat, peeling or slicing cuts. or particularly the straight taper. You might approach the project differently but you might also skin rabbits differently to me. Possibly but the principles are the same in both cases.

    Perhaps the biggest mistake I made is not providing a disclaimer at the start of the video highlighting the fact the video was not meant to be instructional. But then again the need to do this irritates me because it means I need to cater to all those who insist on blaming others when they make a mistake. That is the lot of a demonstrator. But such is the litigious nature of this world that I might just have to do it.
    Flame away.

    P.S added a little bit.

  16. #30
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    Guess what, I am glade I have never even tried to turn.

    Regards
    Hugh

    Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.

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