Thread: Making Skipping Rope Handles

You make it look simple Brendon - thanks. Look forward to more.

Thanks for sharing! I was expecting you to do a few jumps over the finished skipping rope in the end

Thanks Brendon
Interesting to see a production turner's approach to the project.
Ted

I thought you didn't like worrying about going fast. "Production turning" hay?

Well done making the video.

Brendan,

interesting video,

The rounding cut you made with the skew, we call it a 'Peeling Cut', you didn't but I'd be suprised to find it's not the same thing to you.

I've seen the upside-down push cut before but never managed to master it (always get a torn finish) so after watching this, maybe I'll go put some real practice in.

Thanks for posting.

terrific to watch

cheers

Mick

Hi Brendan,
Great Video, liked it a lot.
I was asked to make a couple a few years ago, but my Lady wanted Bearings in the Handles.
Didn't really know how to go about it, so I left them alone.
The Bearing of the one I had to copy, was a real Elcheapo.
Couldn't find them anywhere.

Thanks for all the feedback. Much appreciated. I am enjoying doing them so there will be more. Subscribe to my chanel and you will receive updates when I upload more. In fact I uploaded another one last night but it's a bit boring (there's a pun there so you will have to watch it to get it).

Dragonfly: I wasn't really explaining too much about my techniques in the video but I'm happy to call it a peeling cut. As for the upside-down push cut, I do like it myself but it does have its issues. The problem is with this way of using the skew the fulcrum point is not in line with the point the cutting edge contacts the timber so there is a tendency for the skew to roll into the timber and create the circumstance for a catch. I will be in England in May this year so perhaps we can catch up and talk about it more.

TL: Thanks for your comments. Coming from the school of turning I was interested in what you might have to say about it. However, I have never said I don't work quickly, particularly when the job is as repetitive as this one. I may have said that not every turner want to work quickly but wasn't necessarily referring to myself. As you know, there are times when you need to work quickly and times when you want to just to get the job over and done with. My work with the recorders is, on the other hand, not one of these jobs but most of the other stuff I do I am trying to get it done as quickly as I can without puttiing too much pressure on myself.

That was a very interesting vidieo ,,, i play around turning wood down and like your jig for drilling those holes and also the jig for turning the wood to right size and length ,,,,,, some thing are so simple but if you dont know ,,,, Great job

Nice video mate grate to see woodturning being taken out of the dark age and being stuck on YouTube

I do have 2 questions
1 when the camera is off and your in turning mode what sit of time is it taking you to make one?
2 why the scraper? And not a spindle gouge?
Spindle gouge ,spindle work?

Originally Posted by brendan stemp

TL: Thanks for your comments. Coming from the school of turning I was interested in what you might have to say about it. However, I have never said I don't work quickly, particularly when the job is as repetitive as this one. I may have said that not every turner want to work quickly but wasn't necessarily referring to myself. As you know, there are times when you need to work quickly and times when you want to just to get the job over and done with. My work with the recorders is, on the other hand, not one of these jobs but most of the other stuff I do I am trying to get it done as quickly as I can without putting too much pressure on myself.

Ah well. I guess those questions about speed you put up were "Dorathy Dixers" then. Not quite sure what you mean about "'s school of wood turning. I'll take it as a compliment.

A few more comments though. Have discussed with in the past about the use of the skew "point down" while turning, not just for "v" cuts and parting off, some time ago. He was having a comparison with someone else who used it that way and the conclusion between them was that the cutting edge still was at the same angle to the wood. Just the handle of the tool was at a different angel. Is a little bit heart stopping watching you roll the ends over with the skew point down. Looks like you are pretty close to catching there. I find it more relaxing to have the point up as your handle is more dropped down.
It is also paradoxically a stronger (even though relaxed ) way to hold the chisel as your arm is straighter rather than bent up towards your arm pit. You are then using the natural structure of the body rather than muscle.

You didn't really say why you sanded before you did the cove. Since you sand again after the cove with the inertia sander I not sure why that is necessary.

The cove could be done with the roughing gouge if one doesn't have one of your negative rake scrapers. Would be hard getting such a shallow cove with a smaller round bar spindle gouge. Would be great with a wide "traditional" spindle gouge, but not many people apart from has them in their collection. I have a nearly worn down cast off that was deemed "to short" at work. They are great for long shallow coves that are just that bit too deep for a skew.

Originally Posted by nz_carver

Nice video mate grate to see woodturning being taken out of the dark age and being stuck on YouTube

I do have 2 questions
1 when the camera is off and your in turning mode what sit of time is it taking you to make one?
About 5 min for each one. I have to do 10/hour to make it worthwhile.
2 why the scraper? And not a spindle gouge?
Using a spindle gouge would make it so much harder to get a consistent shape. It would be a different story perhaps if I did this sort of thing all week but I don't so I go for the option that is easiest. But the question back to you is "why use a spindle gouge?" The answer typically would be that it gives a better finish but with this wood I was able to get a finish off the scraper that only needed some 240 grit sanding. And that's a good enough finish for me! And that's the message I'd like to send to a lot of hobbyist turners: ie do what is easiest. Scrapers for beads and coves (on good timber) is so much easier to do for the hobbyist than rolling beads with a skew and cutting coves with a s/gouge. I know Ken Wraight does a scrapes a lot of his beads and I certainly scrape them on my recorders. But in both cases good, tight grained timber is being used.
Spindle gouge ,spindle work?

See response above

Originally Posted by tea lady

Ah well. I guess those questions about speed you put up were "Dorathy Dixers" then.
Not quite. I was simply speaking on behalf of other turners, those that are more in the category of hobbyist.
Not quite sure what you mean about "'s school of wood turning. I'll take it as a compliment.
Not a compliment or insult; just an observation on the fact has had a traditional training in woodturning and his work is typically production work.

A few more comments though. Have discussed with in the past about the use of the skew "point down" while turning, not just for "v" cuts and parting off, some time ago. He was having a comparison with someone else who used it that way and the conclusion between them was that the cutting edge still was at the same angle to the wood. Just the handle of the tool was at a different angel. Is a little bit heart stopping watching you roll the ends over with the skew point down. Looks like you are pretty close to catching there. I find it more relaxing to have the point up as your handle is more dropped down.
It shouldn't be heart stopping. I find it easier than the other way but perhaps this is all a matter of what you are used to. I have tried leading in with the heel tip but find I can't see the contact point well enough. I am planning another video that covers this and it will be on line soon. I'm sure it will be better explained then.
It is also paradoxically a stronger (even though relaxed ) way to hold the chisel as your arm is straighter rather than bent up towards your arm pit. You are then using the natural structure of the body rather than muscle.
Interesting, I will give that one some thought.

You didn't really say why you sanded before you did the cove. Since you sand again after the cove with the inertia sander I not sure why that is necessary.
Yep, you're right, I didn't get back to that point. But that's typical of me. I get side tracked. THe reason I did it this way is that I found it better to sand the handle without the cove initially. Sanding with the cove cut resulted in the edges of the cove getting rounded over too much. And I used the inertia sander at the end only because I didn't want to keep moving the tool rest out and then back in and then out and then back in. It's all about time saving. THe inertia sander was used at the end to get rid of the concentric sanding scratches, as explained but I used 240 grit over 240 grit scratches just because it was a quicker method of getting rid of the aforementioned scratches.

The cove could be done with the roughing gouge if one doesn't have one of your negative rake scrapers. Would be hard getting such a shallow cove with a smaller round bar spindle gouge. Would be great with a wide "traditional" spindle gouge, but not many people apart from has them in their collection. I have a nearly worn down cast off that was deemed "to short" at work. They are great for long shallow coves that are just that bit too deep for a skew.
Very good point. No argument there but see response to NZ Carver for my reasons.

You make some excellent points TL. See in text responses above.

Brendan great work, done like most hobbyists would possibly do quickest way with tools at hand.

Other than this was a copy jig setup for roughing down and forming all a quick scew and sand although rounded corners at the cove could be a problem. Much like the Woodfast Copy Turn or those very rare Symtec lathe set up.

Of course these all depend on volume over time of making or buying such set ups.