Thread: Slip stones

Don't have any pics, I get all my high quality stones here, Home - RH Preyda I have never been dissatisfied or had any issues.

Thanks China. That site does have a few options but does nothing to explain the differences between the options as far as I can see

"Explore" option on their menu gives uses for the various stones.

It would appear that HR Preyda does not sell directly but deals with distributors & account holders (?)

The sandpaper man had some Norton ones.

There is a Australian agent, I seem to have misplaced the details if you contact them they will tell you.

Artful, as you have posted this here in the Woodturning forum I presume you plan to use them on your turning tools.

If that includes grinding a polish in the flutes of your gouges, I've been using a Victorinox fine oval tapered diamond 'steel' for that. You can usually find an area that is close to the flute profile somewhere along its length. Not cheap, but neither are Arks.

That gets the initial job done reasonably quickly and then bring up to a polish with a rag wheel and chrome paste on the bench grinder, à la the 'unicorn method'.

For flat grinds I have been using cheap thin diamond plates. They won't last as long as a good diamond plate, but at that price you can just get a few more...

Originally Posted by NeilS

For flat grinds I have been using cheap thin diamond plates. They won't last as long as a good diamond plate, but at that price you can just get a few more...

Neil

Do you glue those plates to a flat metal bar?

Regards
Paul

Yes Neil, they are for my turning gouges.
Googled the victorinox one and the pictures are not great.
It looks like a similar radius either side and a similar radius on each of the edges.

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Do you glue those plates to a flat metal bar?

Paul

My intention was to glue some of them to the back of my better diamond plates, but realised for my purposes that I didn't need them all to be really flat and that having some thin was an advantage for some uses like re-sharpening carbide routers bits.

I did glue some back to back to make up some paired grits, which also made them a bit more rigid, but have left most of them as singles. Placing them down on clean lathe ways or a ground machine bed keeps them flat enough for any purpose that needs everyday flat. If I need really flat I get out my Atomas.

But for most of the time with any of my turning tools that I hand touch up at the lathe I just handhold them.

Originally Posted by artful bodger

Yes Neil, they are for my turning gouges.
Googled the victorinox one and the pictures are not great.
It looks like a similar radius either side and a similar radius on each of the edges.

I'll try to take some pics of mine when I'm next around at my workshop.

Got mine through a mate who imported a bunch of them... that was some time ago so not sure if he has any of those left.

Thanks Neil, I'd be interested to see.
Must admit I had never considered using a steel.

Here we are...

D-steel profile - side view.jpg

D-steel profile - end view.jpg

Width 20mm tapering in last 50mm down to 15mm.
Thickness 10.5mm down 7.5mm.

The thin end fits my 3/8" bowl gouge...

Steel on 3-8in parabolic flute.jpg
Thompson 3/8" bowl gouge

The straight part of the steel is a very good fit with a bit of rotation for most of my 5/8" 'parabolic' flute profiles...

Steel on 5-8in parabolic flute.jpg
Thompson 5/8"
bowl gouge

And on larger gouges it needs to be maneuvered to get it against all of the flute sides and bottom...

Steel on 3-4in flute.jpg
Thompson 3/4"
bowl gouge

I didn't shop this one out. My mate asked if I would like to buy one from him (I think for A$60) and I just said yes hoping that it would work OK for me, which it has. I think the grit size is what they call medium-fine., perhaps about #600, but that is just a guesstimate.

Unlike most of Victorinox's cutlery, which is made in Switzerland, this one is made in Sheffield in England. It is has a solid metal core, not hollow like dome...

Made in Sheffield England.jpg

Artful... it has occurred to me, if I remember correctly, that you prefer the U flute profile on your bowl gouges. Mine are predominantly what they call 'parabolic' and the 'oval' cross section on the steel fits reasonable well on those. I'm not sure it would work so well on U flutes. Maybe a round one of the right size would work better on them and there maybe cheaper options with those.

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Neil

Do you glue those plates to a flat metal bar?

Regards
Paul

Derek Cohen also posted what he did with his thin diamond plates here...

Cheap Chinese diamond sharpening plates