Thread: Spray Finish.

Bit surprised this hasn't been answered.

On cracky bowls I used nitrocellulose. It's sprayed on using a simple gun. No need for anything fancy.

The nitro will keep in the pot indefinitely. Once sprayed on it will dry in moments.

A few light costs is enough.

Caution as it's flammable AF when vapour.

Available from luthier suppliers, good paint stores on order and Lincoln Sentry.... (Will fill in more) Blackwoods?

Well I reckon you can spray with just about anything. I have sprayed with nitrocellulose, W.O.P, Spa varnish Poly Urethane all in matt, satin, and gloss

Thanks for your replies, the Nitrocellulose sounds like what I need especially if it will keep in the pot indefinitely.
I found luthier seller on epay that has 20lts drums((too much for me) for $229.95 sent him a message asking if he will supply it in 2 lts.
We dont have much of a choice up here, the local hardware commonly known as Dumb and Dumber, or a 1000 km trip to Bunnings and Mitre 10.

Originally Posted by wm460

Thanks for your replies, the Nitrocellulose sounds like what I need especially if it will keep in the pot indefinitely.
I found luthier seller on epay that has 20lts drums((too much for me) for $229.95 sent him a message asking if he will supply it in 2 lts.
We dont have much of a choice up here, the local hardware commonly known as Dumb and Dumber, or a 1000 km trip to Bunnings and Mitre 10.

Nitrocellulose lacquer is becoming difficult to obtain due to the few solid wood cabinet makers about, and the move to 2 pack finishes. I can no longer get it in Townsville unless I place a special order for 4 lt Mirrotone with a business in Cairns and wait. It is classed as dangerous goods so it will cost you a pretty penny to get it to TC. Wattyl Stylwood was available here, but Mirrotone is a better product imho. Stylwood yellows light coloured woods.

The business in Cairns may no longer handle it as last purchase he mentioned he previously had 60+ cabinet makers ordering 100's of litres per month, now he has a few hobbyists using way less that 100 lt per year total. iirc.

I have used Nitrocellulose lacquer from Pylon Coatings for years. If you don't have a spray set up I know that they sell a lacquer in a spray can. It does not have the "body" like out of a gun but it does the job. Located in Matraville Sydney (0)2 9316 8034. I presume it would be classed as "dangerous goods" so may cost a bit to get some delivered. Give them a call and see what they can do for you.

i'm not convinced on a sprays. I think a wipe on poly type thing is better.

Originally Posted by brainstrust

i'm not convinced on a sprays. I think a wipe on poly type thing is better.

gees i was about to agree with that wise person then i realized...................

what did you end up using?

Originally Posted by brainstrust

i'm not convinced on a sprays. I think a wipe on poly type thing is better.

Yeah I would agree, although I prefer the original product over the locally made one. But alas its not worth getting it sent over. It works out to be around $75 per tin. I have been playing around with the recipe to make my own, finding it a bit illusive has anybody else tried?

Originally Posted by hughie

Yeah I would agree, although I prefer the original product over the locally made one. But alas its not worth getting it sent over. It works out to be around $75 per tin. I have been playing around with the recipe to make my own, finding it a bit illusive has anybody else tried?

As far as not being convinced about sprays - each has its own niche. Wipe on Poly's (WOP) have issues too.

For fine spindle work with crisp edge detail the WOP's tend to migrate to the edges / corners of the detail and take longer to dry. I believe this occurs due to the difference in surface tension in the WOP and because the larger surface areas dry quite quickly. Sprayed Nitrocellulose Lacquer is a better solution in that instance.

I've now used pretty much all of my Minwax WOP's and have tinkered with thinning the typical polyurethane finishes with a compatible thinner (refer to the product SDS) in a 1 part poly to 2 parts thinner. None of the mixes I have tried were in the Minwax category imo.

I much prefer to use Livos Kunos 244 (Kunos Natural Oil Sealer | Natural wood oil - Livos Australia) to my home brews.

I have used Livos Kunos 244, but now prefer their 243, which is designed for countertops and is more (apparently) water resistant than 244. As a bonus it is foodsafe, one can click on the link for the certificate.

KUNOS Countertop Oil | Natural furniture oil - Livos Australia


I wipe it on, needs around 3 coats at a minimum, sometimes 4-5 is pretty much as good as things will get. For dodgy bits I brush it in. This bowl has been in our kitchen for years, hasn't really dulled except places where lemons go off and get furry green, if you know what I mean...

Mick.

Edit: Forgot to mention this can be sprayed on, details in the link.

Martin Woodhead - YouTube this is a guy i droll over his work he sprays his creations, what with I dont know.

You haven't stated if you want to fill the voids and cracks completely??