Thread: Starting my Woodturning Journey - Advice/Opinion sought

Originally Posted by NeilS

For gouges (bowl, roughing and spindle) the other readily available options are either the Woodcut Tru-Grind jig (my preferred) or maybe the Carbatec Spindle & Gouge Sharpening System...

Another interesting option.... ABS plastic with SS screw fittings... on eBay...

Woodworking Gouge Sharpening Jig for Lathe for bowl spindle detail gouges

I agree with Neil regarding the VM sharpening system; it’s not that hot.

A few years ago my guild bought the full setup with a white wheel on the LH side and the VM diamond wheel on the RH. For starters the diamond wheel could not be made to run perfectly true; there was always a hint of wobble that used to annoy me. Secondly the jigs and rests are way too big; smaller tools just won’t fit and short tools won’t reach across the toolrest. Switching between modes is a PITA because you definitely have to wait until the wheels stop turning before you attempt to set new angles etc. And lastly; although it’s fairly quick to set up and use the preset angle settings are very limited; you only get two main angles (30 and 55 degrees) and three projection lengths on the bowl gouge jig.

We have now replaced the VM jig with a Tormek bench grinder adaptor and bought the two major Tormek turning tool jigs; this system is head and shoulders above the VM.

So; for my 2c I would stick with the CT grinder and CBN wheel but go for a better sharpening system. I can personally recommend the Tormek jigs but that is a lot of coin to add; even though they keep their value pretty well.

…and talking of better jigs; I have an unused Robert Sorby 445 fingernail profile jig that I bought a few years ago but never got around to fitting. Now I have a Tormek T8 with all the jewellery it’s just taking up shelf room. Have a look at reviews etc and if you’re interested drop me a PM in the next couple of days; if not then I’ll put it in the Forum marketplace.

Neil
I have to disagree with you regarding a high speed versus a low speed grinder. A low speed grinder wil SHARPEN a HSS tool (but not grind a HSS tool) just as fast as high speed grinder and not remove more steel than necessary. A low speed grinder is much more contollable and very suited to a new turner. Like you I have tried many sharpening jigs over the years before returning to the oneway because of its simplicity and durability. If you only want to sharpen “Irish Grind” then you should investigate Hannes vector Jig. Nothing more simple reliable and fast.
Ron

Hi Mike. I am no expert and for the most part I sharpen freehand on a standard speed grinder with a white wheel. The learning curve was not too steep, I made my own toolrest out of plywood and have been relatively happy. The one grind I couldn't do nicely was the fingernail profile on my spindle gouge. I made a jig and it works beautifully. The speed of touching up your chisels by hand (99% of the time) can't be replicated.

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

Hi Mike. I am no expert and for the most part I sharpen freehand on a standard speed grinder with a white wheel. The learning curve was not too steep, I made my own toolrest out of plywood and have been relatively happy. The one grind I couldn't do nicely was the fingernail profile on my spindle gouge. I made a jig and it works beautifully. The speed of touching up your chisels by hand (99% of the time) can't be replicated.

Thanks MA. That is encouraging to hear. Cheers.

Originally Posted by ronboult

Neil
I have to disagree with you regarding a high speed versus a low speed grinder. A low speed grinder will SHARPEN a HSS tool (but not grind a HSS tool) just as fast as high speed grinder and not remove more steel than necessary. A low speed grinder is much more controllable and very suited to a new turner.

Ron, if we were all singing from the same song book we wouldn't have a useful exchange of ideas here. Disagree away...

This post is not intended for KK... as a new turner I expect he doesn't need any more information than he already has.

But, for those with more experience with various gouge jigs and/or likely to consider using a Woodcut bowl gouge...

Originally Posted by ronboult

Like you I have tried many sharpening jigs over the years before returning to the oneway because of its simplicity and durability.

The Oneway jig is a good bit of kit, but I restricted my suggestions to gouge jigs that are readily available here because it's getting very hard to get overseas stuff landed here.

I'm also mindful of the initial setup costs for new turners and like to suggest something that will work at a reasonable cost to get them going.

For those that are inclined to DIY, there is also the DIY gouge jigs sticky thread at the top of this forum.

Originally Posted by ronboult

If you only want to sharpen “Irish Grind” then you should investigate Hannes vector Jig. Nothing more simple reliable and fast.
Ron

I looked at Jo-hannes' vector jig as a solution for re-alignment of the Woodcut gouge tips. I really like the Woodcut BG tips but the problem with them is that they are not long enough to provide a way of re-aligning the flute every time in their Tru-Grind jig, or for that matter most of the other jigs of the same style. It's the same problem when full length flutes are eventually ground away towards the end of a gouge's life.

Johannes' jig system would overcome this problem with his depth guide device that only needs a flute at the very tip for re-alignment, but the pivot plate component of his system was designed to achieve other things, which I didn't particularly need... i.e., multi step heels and a constant edge bevel angle.

Besides that my other gouges worked perfectly well in my standard jigs. It was only the Woodcut tips that needed a way of being re-aligned in the jig.

So, as previously posted, I developed my own simple alignment setting block for the Woodcut BGs, which worked OK'ish...

Aligning Woodcut gouges in sharpening jig

However, I ended up with three three different sized Woodcut BGs, for which I would need three different sizes of those setting blocks and that was becoming too complicated, so I reverted back to using a long magnet across the top of the flutes to visually align with the jig.

That didn't work as well as I wanted, so I eventually bit the bullet and added a flat to the Woodcut shafts and that has worked much better for me.

Woodcut bowl gouge and jig puzzle!

The one downside of doing that is if I ever have to replace a tip at some stage then getting that aligned exactly with the flat that I have added to the shaft may be an issue, but at the rate I'm grinding it away on the CBN that is going to take some time.

Originally Posted by NeilS

The Carbatec system includes an adjustable platform for sharpening skew chisels, scrapers and some gouge grinds, but that would have to be a separate purchase with the Tru-Grind option.

I have just come across Woodcut's Sturdy Rest platform attachment (left or right side) that can be added to the Woodcut base slide that is used with the Tru-Grind gouge jig.

According to them...

"It conveniently pivots down out of the way when not required, allowing you to use the jig for your gouges and other turning tools."

With the Tru-Grind and Sturdy Rest combination most of your bench grinder turning tool holder requirements would be covered.

I prefer the 'two pivot points' + base slide design of the Sturdy Rest over the 'one pivot point' + slide design of the Carbatec option, but the Woodcut combo does come at a premium price over the Carbatec option.

I add a larger platform (just plywood) to the rest platform, with an inset for the grinding wheel, to provide more support and customised markings for angles like 40° left and right for when doing a freehand 40/40 grind.

I'm probably a month a way from turning anything, but it's finally here.....


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It was a struggle getting it off the skid and on the bench.....

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A couple of scissor lift/jacks and a pair crank adjustable roller stands proved invaluable. Now I just got to figure out a way to bolt her down....


Cheers,

Mick

Id suggest moving your sanding paper stand. One day your going to lean over to get some 240 and the lathe will still be turning....bye bye gonads

Originally Posted by Tonyz

Id suggest moving your sanding paper stand. One day your going to lean over to get some 240 and the lathe will still be turning....bye bye gonads

Thanks Tony. Yep, I intend to. I'm still re-organising my workshop so I'm not exactly sure of the best place to move it to. I'm pleasantly surprised by how much bench real estate I have left behind the lathe and I'm not quite sure what to do with it. I'll have to allow some room for the dust extraction piping and chute, but I'll probably build a shelf to house my lathe accessories and tools.

A pair of adjustable mates works well too......provided they are kept well lubricated (150 Lashes recommended lubricant)

Haven't read the responses so don't know if this has been said... But channel your teenage and early 20s self. You know the one, the guy who had an open mind and was willing to try anything and risk making lots of mistakes. As for what you need, you grow and the direction you move in will dictate what you will require in tools and stuff so keep an open mind.