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31st October 2014, 07:02 AM #1Derpaderpa
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Steel for making your own carbide tools?
I'm toying with the idea of making my own carbide-cutter chisels, as I simply can't afford the EWT chisels. We have two of the smallest size ones, and the wife loves them especially for roughing as she finds it less fatiguing.
I'm not really familiar with metal properties, and I'm having a hard time figuring out what the best - and safest - choice is for this job. Some people I've seen use tubing, while others warn against using mild steel as it is "prone to stress fractures". The local metal merchant (3140) told me the closest place to get tool steel is over in Dandenong which is a long walk as I don't drive. Trying to find 10-12mm x ~500mm o1 square bar online is... vexing at best.
Has anybody made their own? Whats the generally recommended best choice of steel?
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31st October 2014 07:02 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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31st October 2014, 08:12 AM #2GOLD MEMBER
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Someone may correct me, I was thinking of using some bright bar and buying the cuttertips then all I have to do is make a handle and get the tip tapped and a screw to hold the Tip.
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31st October 2014, 08:56 AM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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Did your local merchant give any more detail other than "tool steel"?
I will be talking to a toolmaker / engineer friend later today as I am looking at the potential to make my own gouges using the Woodcut gouge tips. I will keep you informed of the outcome of the discussion. If you can give me any further information from your merchant, that may help.
Bob
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31st October 2014, 09:16 AM #4Derpaderpa
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As I said I'm not a metal guy, so some of this info might be wrong. Tool steels tend to be higher carbon/alloy steels, with various grades for various purposes.
O1/A2 are often used in newer/fancier bench chisels and planes because of their work ability, yet still maintain an edge for awhile. HSS is (I think?) generally M2 grade. For turning chisels that don't actually do the cutting, the "S" series of grades (ideally S7?) might be best as they're designed for shock resistance.
From what I can tell, Bohler Uddeholm in Dandenong seem to have the (victorian) market just about sewn up!
Yup, thats the process, just concerned that mild steel wouldn't be suffice. Perhaps I'm just being overly cautious.
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31st October 2014, 09:34 AM #5
you could get a length of stainless rod/bar about 1/2" square
I doubt you'd need tool steel for the shaft
my understanding is that tool steel is for making the tools eg the scraper etc something you'd put an edge onregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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31st October 2014, 09:42 AM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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tool steel
If you go to McJing's website you will see that they sell steel for tool making. I have from time to time bought some
at the WWW shows and found it satisfactory and relatively cheap. They will of course freight to you. Worth a look?
Drillit.
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31st October 2014, 09:49 AM #7GOLD MEMBER
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I have salvaged round steel rods from Xerox machines and printers. Grinding a flat on the end and having a saw sharpening shop braze a tip like one of these http://www.alibaba.com/product-detai...27655.html?s=p on the end would make a tool that the shop could shape to your taste. You would then just keep it sharp by using a diamond card sharpener on the top.
I take my round EWT easy finisher bit off and lay it on a diamond card with a little water, scoot it round and round for a minute and re mount. I've been using the original one for a couple of years. I use it for roughing. For finishing I use freshly sharpened HSS or carbon tools.
If I were to make a tool to use the EWT round bits, I would use a 12 or 16 mm round bar so it could be rolled over easily for shear scraping.
Mild steel would be more inclined to bend than break.
Socket extensions are another source of tough steel:
http://www.harborfreight.com/pc-supe...set-67975.html
Wonder through hardware or engineers shops and look and ask.
Any of these close?
http://www.steelsolutions.com.au/ste...ack-c-105.html
http://www.steelsolutions.com.au/ste...ack-c-104.htmlSo much timber, so little time.
Paul
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31st October 2014, 09:50 AM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Ok, I have the information we need.
Supplier is Bohler in Dandenong South.
Material is 4140 High Tensile Ground Bar and comes in a 6m lenght and can be drilled, tapped or welded - but if welded would have to be rehardened afterwards. Price for a 6m length is $40.00 incl GST.
Bad news is that it is available in 12.7mm round bar but not square. Smallest square section is 20mm. They would cut to size eg. 12 x 12 ex a 12mm thick plate, but that would not be a ground finish and obviously quite a bit dearer. I have not checked other suppliers for square section yet.
12.7mm round bar cut to length (say 400mm long) should work out to less than $5.00 per lenght (incl GST).
If there is enough interest, I would buy a length and cut to size.
Bob
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31st October 2014, 10:56 AM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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Following on from my earlier post, I questioned my engineer friend about other options such as stainless steel. His response was that it may be OK, but the high tensile 4140 steel is recommended for its strenght in resisting the rotational forces that would be applied to the tool and the fact that these are often in more than one plane eg. lenghtwise from the contact of the tip and rotation through contact of the side of the tool.
He suggested 4140 as the safer option.
Bob
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31st October 2014, 11:27 AM #10Derpaderpa
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Argh, I was there on Friday and didn't even think to look for it. In my defense I was pretty worn out by the time we got to McJings stall.
400mm might actually be the ideal length too - the EWT full size tools are 12mm x 215mm (1/2" x 8.5"), which allows (if going for a carbon copy) 185mm inside the handle for a good grip. Only a couple of their hollowers and the parting tool are any longer.
On the subject of round vs square, square would be "safer" as its easier to keep flat/straight, particularly when hollowing out a bowl. However, I don't know if thats going to be any less safe than a regular bowl gouge with round bar. And its not like there aren't commercial carbide tools with round bars (Sorby TurnMaster, various deep hollowing tools, etc)
I'd be down for a few lengths - that way the wife can have a few shapes at her disposal.
That makes me feel a bit less pedantic!
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31st October 2014, 02:38 PM #11
+1
I have founds stainless steel has been fine for the purpose. I have given mine a good workout at times and it has been fine.
Round carbide -cutter and bar.JPGRound carbide cutter - profile.JPG
Round carbide cutter - ortho.JPGRound carbide -cutter, bar and handle 1.JPG
- The tensile strength of mild steel is 370MPa (yield) to 440MPa (ultimate), which might be a bit too soft
- 316 stainless is between about 500 to 680MPa and
- 304 stainless up to 720MPa, which I have found robust enough with 12mm square rod.
- A high tensile steels should take you above 700MPa, as long as you don't de-temper it with heat.
It is probably a case of what is readily available to you at a reasonable cost.Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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31st October 2014, 03:03 PM #12
from the EWT site
"The Easy Rougher tool bars are CNC machined from solid stainless steel bar stock."regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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31st October 2014, 03:21 PM #13This is what I mean by 'a good workout'... it's the root ball of an apple tree that I turned the other day. For size comparison, it is hanging off a 5" chuck. The 12mm sq shaft had no problems with roughing that down. Can't say the same for the TC tip that had to deal with all the dirt and stone inclusions...
Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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31st October 2014, 04:17 PM #14SENIOR MEMBER
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Neil's photo proves the point that 12mm sq Stainless can do the job.
However, my requirement is for 12.7mm round and I have now received confirmation of the price of $75 incl GST for a 6m length of 4140 High Tensile rod picked up from Dandenong, cut to size (400 mm) and delivered to my home - ie. $5.00 per peice. I will place an order next week and should have delivery in about a week.
The 6m lenght is about twice my immediate requirement, so am happy to share. Price $5 per 400mm lenght pick up in Mt Waverley 3149. There will only be 9 pieces available - first in first served. Unfortunately, I am unable to supply the 12mm sq SS bar.
Bob
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31st October 2014, 08:22 PM #15
I tend to make most of my own hollowing tools. 4140 will do for a bar but as you have found its only sold in round, theres also 1045 which is fairly stiff. if you go towards Stainless you should be looking for 316 grade as its about the stiffest and it can be available in a square. But generally only from a specialist steel supplier who specializes in stainless.
If you consider m2 or m24 etc these are HSS steels and wont be cheap and the hardening is generally beyond the back yard heatreater as the initial temp is around 1300c+ and it requires triple tempering and just to make more interesting the heat treatment numbers need to be accurate.
What you need is a simple source of already hardened HSS of which you can insert into your hollowing bar as it can be ground with conventional grinding wheels.
Sources such as, broken HSS drills make an excellent resource for this. If your still keen to use TCT tungsten carbide tips. Then seek out a local engineering shop that has a few lathes as they most certainly use TCT cutter for turning steel and as they wear out or get chipped they generally throw them away.Look for the ones with a hole in the centre as they are the easiest to mount on a hollowing bar.
I would avoid going to Bohlers as they tend to be the dearest steel merchants around, do a Google search of your local area or city, in Sydney we have Edcon Steel as one of the cheapest and they will sell by the metre. I generally buy a couple of metres at a time of 4140
McJings sell HSS stock in various sizes and configurations, but the quality tends to vary. They also have silver steel as reasonable prices and this can be hardened with a blow torch and water as a cooling medium.Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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