Thread: Stemp roughing gouge

I watched that video as well and was intrigued by the variation to the standard roughing gouge grind. Obviously it works for him and I would be interested to see what the more experienced among us have to say.

A link would help PLus time stamp when shown

Around the 2.00min mark

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Q2J2SocRa8

I make 95% bowls so do not have a roughing gouge for the tool handles I make. I have been using a 5/8 inch bowl gouge as my spindle roughing gouge. The grind on Brenden's roughing gouge is close to a swept back bowl gouge grind.

The way he is using the gouge is more of a slicing cut, and I'm sure makes for a smoother surface with less tear out.

A couple of stills from the video

Looks a bit like a 22mm P&N supagouge reshaped with the fingernail grind

http://www.cwsonline.com.au/shop/cat...-pn-supa-gouge

Originally Posted by dai sensei

A link would help PLus time stamp when shown

Sorry forgot about that. Thanks George for posting it.
Phil

was going to post the same thing after i seen the video. i have seen that kinda grind on another video but can seam to find it
.

Interesting grind, will have to butcher mine to try it. Had thought about it, as I use mine on the side quite often.
Kryn

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Interesting grind, will have to butcher mine to try it. Had thought about it, as I use mine on the side quite often.
Kryn

if you do do it feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks
Phil

This thread almost passed without my noticing it. I have enjoyed a cyber free (almost) 3 week holiday and I only found out about it because I was alerted to it by... sorry, I can't remember but think it was George.

I have been using this style of grind for a few years now and really like it. The RG in question is a 25mm P&N RG, (the best on the market IMHO) and is quite a few years old, hence the short length of it. I started grinding it with my Tru Grind as I would a bowl gouge.

The reason for this grind is because I can present the either of the long edges of the RG to the spinning wood in a similar that you would a skew chisel.
Yes, this can be done with a conventional grind but you shouldn't because you would be using it in a similar way to using a skew with the toe down. And the reason you wouldn't use a skew with the toe down to smooth a spindle (although I do do this myself occasionally) is because the cutting edge is not adjacent to the fulcrum point on the toolrest which means the cutting edge isn't being well supported. This results in a twisting of the tool which can result in the tip of the skew coming into contact with the wood; a catch the result.

I think this is explained better in my video The Skew Part 2 see link. It may be in the first part... unsure!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_KT...GJQjJvfmVUcE-Q

I'm not sure how well this explains it so I will do a video of it soon.

I also like this grind because you get to wear out more of you cutting edge before the need for re-sharpening. With a conventional RG the edge at the bottom of the flute seems to be used the most but when you re-shapren it you sharpen/grind the whole edge. This means you are re-sharpening an edge that doesn't need to be re-sharpened.

Thanks for the explaination.
Look forward to the video.

Phil

Originally Posted by brendan stemp

I also like this grind because you get to wear out more of you cutting edge before the need for re-sharpening. With a conventional RG the edge at the bottom of the flute seems to be used the most but when you re-shapren it you sharpen/grind the whole edge. This means you are re-sharpening an edge that doesn't need to be re-sharpened.

This!

I've seen many an RG that the owner has only sharpened the bottom, 'cos "that's where it's blunt" , leaving horns on each wing. Dangerous, dangerous, dangerous!

A swept back grind is much more user friendly than a square grind, IMHO, esp. for a novice. Although mine are not swept back as far as Brendan's... might give it a try next time I'm at the grinder.