Thread: Storage of wet timber.

What do you mean by wet. Has it been in water or do you mean recently cut down and 'wet with sap'. It would also help to know the demensions of the piece

Whitewood

Have you sealed the ends? If not seal them with wax or PVA Glue, unless you have some proper end grain sealer??

Old rule of thumb, is a year for every Inch of thickness and a Year for Luck.

Now-a-days with so called Global Warming and such I have heard tell you can cut that figure down by 25 - 50% but I still like sticking to the original Rule.

Bear in mind if it's over 100mm thick good chance it will never be totally dry in the middle.




Cheers

Steve

For what it's worth I do similar with my wet/green timber.
I rough turn to approx 7/8 -- 1in thick and then pack the piece straight into a cardboard box with the green shavings. Close the lid and let it dry naturally.
It usually takes about 4 months, but that would vary with the climate. We are fairly dry here so take that into consideration.
My pieces often warp but rarely split or crack.

Bob.

For solids, I just seal the end-grain and place it on my stack, making sure it's in a well ventilated spot.

Sometimes I'll rough out a form, to around 1-1.5" thickness... and that I'll store in shavings.

I only check these pieces on a monthly basis or so, sorting out any that have cracked or ovalled beyond usability and making notes on the side of the box re weight & movement. After 3-6 months, they've usually stopped moving and weight change is minimal, so I place them on the rack where they can sit for years until I renew my interest in that piece.

I have some measurements.
Top is 24cm Dia Bottom is 19cm Dia Height is 24cm
Some pictures here.


014 (Small).JPG015 (Small).JPG017 (Small).JPG

hi cookie,
looks like a nice piece of timber you have there,
myself i would just go for it!!!!!!!!!!
i have turned a lot of camphour and most of it wet!
your blank already has a crack,so i would turn it now
if any more cracks appear,you could fill them with CA.
and some dust when you sand.put some DO on when
sanding and that will also fill any gaps.
hope you don't mind my suggestions just my thoughts
on camphour, because it is very forgiving and also a weed
only joking i love turning it and it is a beautiful timber
cheers smiife

I would decide what i was going to make .turn it green as said then ether seal it all round or place it in my drum of detergent and water 50/50 mix for about 3weeks then let it dry. Google Ron Kent and have a look you may be suprised

Cheers Ian

Yep seal it asap on the end grain, leave it in a box you dont have to have any sawdust etc in there. Being in the box it will produce its own atmosphere and have equilibrium. Blocks, as Skew has stated just go on my rack I only box up the rough outs. CL is normally quite stable it only goes a bit crazy if the piece has some pith with it.
I probably have a a couple 100 kgs green sitting on the rack in a tin shed and they made through all the hot weather here in Sydney, cant say the same a for a few dry burls I have.

Rekon I will turn down to approx size the missus wants then try the soap/water,
Read the Ron Kent article and some on AWW. Sounds like the way to go.
Thanks all for your input.
Cookie

Originally Posted by cookie48

Rekon I will turn down to approx size the missus wants then try the soap/water,
Read the Ron Kent article and some on AWW. Sounds like the way to go.
Thanks all for your input.
Cookie

What you will find that the 50/50 soap and water aka Ron Kent method is not suitable for all timbers. On CL i have had mixed success, by far the best 'soaker' for CL is meths or DNA. Turn to within 10% of final thickness soak for around 24hrs plus. Then dry off the excess place it in a small box of paper bag for 2-3weeks. Some turn right off after drying the excess and finish I prefer to wait.