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Thread: Storing Turning Blanks
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22nd June 2005, 07:45 PM #1
Storing Turning Blanks
I have some questions, that some ppl may consider trivial.
1. What is the best way to store bowl blanks?
2. Can they be stored on their edge or flat stacked on top of each other?
3. Is cupboard storage suitable?
The edges of dry blanks have been waxed and the green blanks are fully waxed.
Experienced opinions are welcome.Russell (aka Mulgabill)
"It is as it is"
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22nd June 2005, 08:53 PM #2
Ummm.... why are the green ones fully waxed? :confused:
How is it ever going to dry out?
If the timber is dry, in a cupboard away from moisture & vermin is fine.
If it is still wet, then it needs room around it for the moisture to get away.Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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22nd June 2005, 08:54 PM #3Hewer of wood
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Hi Russell,
I would say that with dry blanks you only need to allow air around the unwaxed faces so they reach or stay at EMC. Stagnant air might start spalting.
With green, wax is a pretty good tho not perfect sealer. They can sit any which way, tho my approach with these is to rough turn them to speed up the drying, or fully turn them in one session.
With rough turned, there are several approaches to drying, and that's another story.
Hope this helpsCheers, Ern
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22nd June 2005, 09:04 PM #4
Thanks Cliff & Ern!
Thanks for your replies.
I am thinking of putting some air vents in the cupboard doors it aid air flow which will benefit the dried blanks.
The green blanks are as received from Tassie and I will take your advice and rough turn them progressively in the coming months.
Cheers!Russell (aka Mulgabill)
"It is as it is"
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22nd June 2005, 09:16 PM #5Hewer of wood
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So feel free to gloat here! Tell us about the green Tassie stuff.
Cheers, Ern
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22nd June 2005, 09:48 PM #6Originally Posted by rsser
The Tassie stuff is mostly green Myrtle figured & burls, Euc figured of various sizes and larger Blackwood dried squares. I have not made my mind up about the future of the Blackwood yet but I think I have time for these.
As per your recomendation, it looks like I have to do something with the green wood in the near future.Russell (aka Mulgabill)
"It is as it is"
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22nd June 2005, 10:38 PM #7
Beware the Blackwood!!!! It can cause nasty reactions.
Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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23rd June 2005, 02:48 AM #8
Russell
The Tassie blanks in the wax is better off left with the wax on while storing them rather than rough turning a whole stack of blanks to shapes that you don't want in a few months or years from now. You cannot put the shavings back as solid wood, however those wax covered blanks should still be 100% in a few years from now. Although they are covered, they still loose moisture but very very slowly, which protects them from splitting. I have seen guys roughing out blanks to the favourite shape/stile but in a year when they come to turn the roughies, there techniques and ideas about the perfect shape has changed and now they are stuck with stuff that is not 100% what they want. I just picked up about $800 worth of Tassie blanks from my favourite woodwork supplier in Balcatta, Perth. The blanks arrived on Monday!
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23rd June 2005, 07:58 AM #9Hewer of wood
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I have once or twice had mould start under a green waxed piece; the spores had obviously settled before waxing.
And with plain green Tassie myrtle, drying a rough turned piece can be chancy, even with end grain resealed. It tends to crack readily. Myrtle burl on the other hand seems more stable.
If you've got a heap of blanks, then you can play around with varying the rough turned forms as you would with dry blanks.
Fully turning green blanks has to be done pretty much in one standing (tho you can wrap the piece in plastic while you have lunch) taking care to minimise heat/drying until you're ready to finish. It'll normally warp out of true afterwards and some turners make this a feature of the piece. Some microwave the piece dry.Cheers, Ern
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23rd June 2005, 11:03 AM #10
I only get dry ones !!
No hassles.
Thats why i live here.
got to get some benefit for living here.
my problem is getting dry for the woodheater.p.t.c
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23rd June 2005, 01:30 PM #11Hewer of wood
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Lucky sod. Some of that myrtle burl is gorgeous.
Cheers, Ern
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23rd June 2005, 06:40 PM #12
Ern
you missed this one.
Myrtle 10yrs drying .
280 by 100 (28cm x 10cm)Last edited by ptc; 30th June 2006 at 11:02 PM.
p.t.c
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23rd June 2005, 07:38 PM #13
Thanks Joe, Ern & PTC,
I 'll take all this good advice on-board, It seems from what you are saying there is no great urgency to rough turn the sealed myrtle burls as they will keep for some time in suitable storage.
PTC, Sorry to here about your heating problems, there is always some down-side to living in the beautiful parts of Oz.Russell (aka Mulgabill)
"It is as it is"
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23rd June 2005, 08:00 PM #14Hewer of wood
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Originally Posted by ptc
Ah well, can't complain ... have a decent highly figured dry Tassie blackwood piece on the go at the moment. Tho it's taking all my skill to keep the grain tear out down.
... Russell, all your fully sealed green pieces should be good to sit for a while; just check them out weekly for cracking or fungus under the wax.Cheers, Ern
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24th June 2005, 09:09 AM #15
Store waxed blanks flat as standing them on their side can lead to the moisture all going to the bottom of the blank and creating a bad balance problem when you finally get it onto the lathe.
This is a common problem that most turners just plow on through not thinking about it being the moisture content that is causing the balance problem. They usually blame either the timber or the lathe.
Cheers - Neil
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