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  1. #1
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    Aug 2019
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    Default Stuck faceplate...

    I'm relatively new to wood turning, and have just picked up a second hand Jet 1014 to learn on. It's an early 2005 model (serial 0097!) and has been very little used and as a bonus came with a set of virtually unused 6 HSS tools.


    Now my learning adventure begins! And the questions start...


    Sorry for the newbie question in advance


    The faceplate is stuck on.


    The spindle thread (aparently) is 1" x 8 tpi and I believe (from YouTube) is a standard right hand thread. So I lock the collar and rotate the faceplate anticlockwise to undo? The same way lathe turns to undo - is this definately correct? (anti-clockwise assuming I'm looking at the lathe with the tailstock infront of me and the headstock the furthest away from me.)


    Just want to confirm I'm turning it the right way Any other tips?

    Note there is no spindle lock - I need to stick and 8mm rod into the spindle collar and wedge against the bed to lock.

    Thanks!

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  3. #2
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    Apr 2013
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    Default

    Yes, you’re correct, anti-clockwise to undo.

  4. #3
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    Aug 2007
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    St Georges Basin
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    Default

    A thick leather washer under the faceplate might help to keep it from sticking in the future.

  5. #4
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    Nov 2007
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    Albury Well Just Outside
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    Default

    I have seen people using penetrating oil in order to remove two metal parts. That being said I have used WD-40 (only thing that I had in the shed) and left it for a while before attempting to remove.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Mareeba Far Nth Qld
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    Default

    I have been turning for close to 40 years now, and have never had the need to use a washer under a face plate or chuck. The trick is to use only, hand pressure to fit a face plate or chuck to my lathe. I do use a brass spacer only , when the nose of the spindle thread was a little too long and prevents the two metal surfaces from gently touching. The problem can be that the washer may not have parallel surfaces, and potentially cause the face plate to have some runout. But then we are turning wood not making watch parts are we??

    Jim

    Jim
    Sometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    North Carolina, USA
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    Default

    Oddlight,

    Squirt lots of penetrating oil, WD-40, Liquid Wrench, etc. around the back where face plate meets spindle and in front in threads in hole. Let set over night. Next day squirt more juice and lock spindle with rod and grab top of face plate and pull hard to unscrew while tapping lightly with a preferably brass hammer around the hole in the front of the face plate.

    When it comes off, oil up inside and outside threads, and where flat on back of face plate meets flat on spindle with light oil, auto oil or auto trans fluid is fine, run the face plate on and off several times, wipe clean, then carefully inspect threads and flats. If clean and no rust inspect flats for gouges with raised places, stone off any raised places, wipe off, lightly oil and put back on until snug. Remove twice a year and clean and oil.

    The threads only hold a face plate or chuck on, what makes it run true is the meeting of the flats, and on some an unthreaded part of the face plate or chuck and on the spindle. This is called the register. Putting something soft between the flats of the register can cause the chuck or face plate to flop around to a greater or lesser degree. Keeping everything clean and oiled will let you get things apart.

    If you have difficulty getting the face plate off, post back here and I will advise further.
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
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    59
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    12,701

    Default

    Yep. Anticlockwise.

    If it's not fully tightened when fitted to the lathe, starting the lathe or even a minor catch, can tighten it up beyond easy removal.

    As Powderpost said above, tighten it up by hand, making sure that the 'shoulders' of the faceplate and headstock spindle touch. If it doesn't register correctly and there's any gap at all, you can have problems.

    Naturally, keeping the threads clean will help ensure a good fit.

    If the faceplate is from another lathe and will not tighten down all the way, then I'd resort to a backing washer.


    Should the faceplate only be a small diameter, not enough to get good leverage against by hand, well... I've found that a pair of small bolts through opposite faceplate holes will give me something to register another lever against. I've been known to use those bolts to fix a metal bar which I can then rotate the whole assembly so the spindle bar in the spindle rests against the bed and I can gently tap the end of the bar on the faceplate with a wooden mallet.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc (AKA "Ghost who posts." )

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Leopold, Victoria
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    3,288

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Oddlight View Post

    Note there is no spindle lock - I need to stick and 8mm rod into the spindle collar and wedge against the bed to lock.
    I would be placing the 8mm rod in the spindle hole and rotate it until it is horizontal at around the 9 o'clock position. Place a length of wood (say 50 x 50mm) under it up close to the spindle to give the rod good support close to where it engages in the hole. Once you have set up like this use Skew's method to dislodge the faceplate. Having a long length of 8mm rod only supported a long way from the spindle allows it to flex a lot and will not create any jarring action when you tap the components you attach to the faceplate.
    See rough sketch of what I mean attached.
    Attachment 459574
    Faceplate.JPG
    Cheers,
    Dallas

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    I would be placing the 8mm rod in the spindle hole and rotate it until it is horizontal at around the 9 o'clock position. Place a length of wood (say 50 x 50mm) under it up close to the spindle to give the rod good support close to where it engages in the hole. Once you have set up like this use Skew's method to dislodge the faceplate. Having a long length of 8mm rod only supported a long way from the spindle allows it to flex a lot and will not create any jarring action when you tap the components you attach to the faceplate.
    See rough sketch attached.
    Attachment 459574
    Treecycle, you weren’t an architect in your previous profession were you? Hahaha, kidding.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    South Brisbane
    Age
    47
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    Default

    Thanks for the all the replies and good advice - thats brilliant.

    Sadly I still can't remove it

    It's the small stock faceplate.

    I've applied a load of WD40 over the last few days. Couple of bolts throught the holes, then the bar of a 700mm f-clamp (thinest strongest longest metal I've got) through the bolts and apply constant pressure anti-clockwise, tapping the end of the clamp gently with a rubber mallet.

    Nope - still not moving and I've now bent the end of the temporary drift bar (and I'm bending the bolts I've put through the faceplate but dont have anything stronger).

    I'm really not sure what to do now tbh. Maybe apply some heat? Bigger stronger bolts and iron bar? Stronger and longer 8mm drift bar? I'm happy to cut off the faceplate if that can be done without damage to the spindle (I dont plan to use a faceplate in the short term - I want to fit a chuck). Very last resort is a replacement spindle (naaah - dont want to give up just yet.... and they are $100 + shipping)? The faceplace has been on since purchase in 2006.

    Any other advice?

    I know its a big ask, but is there anybody that can lend my a hand? Perhaps you have a heat source and a stronger 8mm metal bar / other tools? Happy to come to you and donate some beer. I'm near Wishart, South side and around during the day this week as I'm on holiday.

    Many thanks.

  12. #11
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    Default

    Thank you for the diagram and excellent advice.

    I used an old piece of copper pipe left over from a plumbing project to add vertical support instead of the wood. But managed to bend the end of the rod regardless. Let me try the wood method in a mo. The other issue is that I'm bending bolts put through the faceplate.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Burwood NSW
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    Gentle taps with a rubber mallet won't do anything .Give it a solid wack with a big hammer .
    Ted

  14. #13
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    Default

    Another attempt ... and ... it's free! Yipppeee!

    I did a couple of things slightly differently this time (and to help anybody else in this situation again):

    I placed the drift rod in the collar at 9 o'clock position and measured and cut a peice of wood to fit between where the bar enters the collar and the bed (as beautifull illustrated by Treecycle above). There was some play, so I lashed the lot together with masking tape to reduce chance of it flying apart. I used a piece of 2" by 1" to maximise contact with the bar and bed.

    Bolts through faceplate at roughly 3 and 9, washers on the end, and 700mm f-clamp through vertically. Bolts done up to hold clamp securely and flat against faceplate. The rivet at the end of the clamp stops it from sliding out. For reference, I used a cheap Craftright one from Bunnings.

    I applied strong constant pressure to the clamp and rythmically tapped the end like the Hulk with Thors' hammer.

    I made my 12 year old son stand close by to remove temptation to cuss (and he's showing a lot of interest in this lathe which is lovely to see).

    It took a few minutes but then it broke free. It went with some attitude so I'm glad I kept my fingers away!

    Thanks again all for the solid advice.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Caringbah, NSW
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    Default

    Worth one more try? I have had several successes (and a couple of failures) using Loctite Freeze and Release, available from AutoBarn, Repco, Whitworths Marine and probably others - at around $20. Check it out on the web. And sudden sharp hits
    are the way to go.

    Edited: While I was (slowly) typing you got it free! Well done - maybe the Freeze and Release next time.

  16. #15
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    Apr 2013
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    Sydney
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    Default

    If it didn’t come off I was going to suggest you apply heat to the casing around the double which should also hep. Hopefully a bit of copper-coat will stop it sticking for good.

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