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10th October 2012, 02:13 PM #16Senior Member
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10th October 2012 02:13 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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10th October 2012, 03:21 PM #17Retired
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- May 1999
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- Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
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11th October 2012, 12:03 AM #18
Spur Drive
I agree that tailstock pressure is insufficient for engagement. But I'm not too keen on using a spare spur drive, because of infinitesimal variations in shape. Even within the spur drive, spurs can vary because of manufacturing tolerance. So if remounting is at all potential, I mark its position on the wood - referring to a scratched mark on the drive, or the setscrew socket on replaceable points.
To avoid distortion of the taper, I use a leather-faced mallet to thump into position, and/or several thumps to assist alignment. Never touch it with a metal instrument.
Cheers,
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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11th October 2012, 04:43 AM #19
For marking center, I thump the ends with a Vicmarc Drive Dog Punch. No need to worry about deforming the taper, just don't drop the blessed thing on you toes
Pat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
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11th October 2012, 08:14 AM #20anne-maria.
Tea Lady
(White with none)
Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.
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11th October 2012, 09:26 AM #21Jim Carroll
One Good Turn Deserves Another. CWS, Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut, Tormek, Woodfast
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11th October 2012, 11:24 AM #22SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2001
- Location
- South Australia
- Posts
- 650
I’m with Ann Marie on this one.
Just because the wood has been machined doesn't mean it will run true at the transition points (pommel).
There can be a number of reasons for this, poor machining, moisture content, incorrect storage or it just might be a twisty bit of wood that moved after machining.
Using a spring loaded centre punch or punching a drive centre into endgrain of Pinus Twistus is problematic if you hit the hard winter growth ring.
The hard winter growth ring can kick the point off to one side.
Drilling a shallow 3mm hole will help overcome this.
I have used the Vicmarc drive dog punch but it is really only a good fit for the Vicmarc drive centre.
I use this method for driving large diameter (150mm) hardwood posts.
For sizes around 75 or 100mm I like to use a 32mm Steb centre and a smaller steb live centre.
It's easy to adjust the centres if the work doesn’t run true.
Cheers
TimSome days I turns thisaway, somedays I turns thataway and other days I don't give a stuff so I don't turn at all.
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11th October 2012, 12:44 PM #23
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12th October 2012, 06:57 PM #24GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Location
- shoalhaven n.s.w
- Posts
- 1,240
The only time I lock my tail stock is when I'm turning cabriole legs, but don't when turning balustrades to save time! but I advise students to when teaching for safety until their confidence grows.
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12th October 2012, 07:00 PM #25anne-maria.
Tea Lady
(White with none)
Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.
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12th October 2012, 07:52 PM #26Jim Carroll
One Good Turn Deserves Another. CWS, Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut, Tormek, Woodfast
Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds!
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