Thread: Tassie Myrtle blanks

AAARGH! Don't you hate that? Figured Myrtle, too? My heart truly bleeds for you. This Summer hasn't been kind to some of my blanks either, so I can fully empathise.

How hot is your shed getting in this weather? Is it any cooler under your house or elsewhere on your property?

2mm cracks? Sorry to say, I don't think filling 'em with CA is going to accomplish much. Sure, it may stop those cracks from growing wider, but instead the stresses'll probably build up until new cracks start at the next weakest grain section. IMHO it would have been better to simply seal the existing cracks with more wax or endgrain sealer, (making sure it goes well down into the crack) to limit moisture loss through it and have the crack act as the "safety relief" to preserve what's left of the blank. I'd leave the CA alone until actually turning the bowl.

Either way the crack will be visible in the finished product and I'd rather have one wide one I could make a feature of instead of myriad little ones.

As for rough turning, well... that's also a mixed proposition. Roughing to 1" won't necessarily stop checking but it gives the form room to move and reduce the chances of checking quite a bit. I coat my rough-turned items all over in end-sealer, then pack 'em with their own shavings in small cardboard boxes.

So, if it minimises the odds, why do I say that it's a mixed proposition? Say you hollow it out, pack it away and come back in a few weeks only to see that it's cracked clear across the base. Well, having already roughed the bowl you've reduced the chances of salvaging anything out of the blank. At least if 'twas still a full block you could possibly cut it up for veneers, pen blanks or maybe some smaller bowls/boxes. But a roughed bowl?

I only pre-rough blanks I can easily replace or weren't particularly valuable in the first place. But then again, I'm a tight-asre who likes to squeeze as much out of any tree as possible. (I wonder if I can turn laminated leaves? )

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

AAARGH! Don't you hate that? Figured Myrtle, too? My heart truly bleeds for you. This Summer hasn't been kind to some of my blanks either, so I can fully empathise.

How hot is your shed getting in this weather? Is it any cooler under your house or elsewhere on your property?

2mm cracks? Sorry to say, I don't think filling 'em with CA is going to accomplish much. Sure, it may stop those cracks from growing wider, but instead the stresses'll probably build up until new cracks start at the next weakest grain section. IMHO it would have been better to simply seal the existing cracks with more wax or endgrain sealer, (making sure it goes well down into the crack) to limit moisture loss through it and have the crack act as the "safety relief" to preserve what's left of the blank. I'd leave the CA alone until actually turning the bowl.

Either way the crack will be visible in the finished product and I'd rather have one wide one I could make a feature of instead of myriad little ones.

As for rough turning, well... that's also a mixed proposition. Roughing to 1" won't necessarily stop checking but it gives the form room to move and reduce the chances of checking quite a bit. I coat my rough-turned items all over in end-sealer, then pack 'em with their own shavings in small cardboard boxes.

So, if it minimises the odds, why do I say that it's a mixed proposition? Say you hollow it out, pack it away and come back in a few weeks only to see that it's cracked clear across the base. Well, having already roughed the bowl you've reduced the chances of salvaging anything out of the blank. At least if 'twas still a full block you could possibly cut it up for veneers, pen blanks or maybe some smaller bowls/boxes. But a roughed bowl?

I only pre-rough blanks I can easily replace or weren't particularly valuable in the first place. But then again, I'm a tight-asre who likes to squeeze as much out of any tree as possible. (I wonder if I can turn laminated leaves? )

Gooday Skew, thank for your reply. The garage I work in is hotter inside than out. It has a flat tin roof and everytime I try to work I have to get out because it becomes a steam bath. That's why lately I've been working in the cool of night. These Melb scorchers are really stuffing up some of my blanks; blackwood, redgum, burls are ok but sassie and myrtle are nothing but trouble.

I don't want to put them under the house in case termites colonise and eat them up .
I'm going to rough turn because I can't see the checking from stopping; It wants to run it's course so I'll play it by ear It's too expensive not to try and making pens out of it is definitely out. Got blanks for that. This end grain sealer you mention, what's it called and where do you get it from?

Thanks mate

Green myrtle is notoriously unstable.

Two other options you have:

Wrap the waxed blanks in plakky bags ... but chk for mould from time to time.

Finish turn from green. This has to be done in one session; even if you leave it just for a cuppa wrap it up. It's more likely to dry without cracking if the wall is turned down to an even thickness, but you may get a lightly rippled surface. I like this effect but if you don't then go down the rough turning then dry path.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

.......I only pre-rough blanks I can easily replace or weren't particularly valuable in the first place. But then again, I'm a tight-asre who likes to squeeze as much out of any tree as possible. (I wonder if I can turn laminated leaves? )

I knew there was a reason I operated this way I just didn't know what it was until now

Good advice Skew!

Originally Posted by Evan Pavlidis

This end grain sealer you mention, what's it called and where do you get it from?

My preference is for Mobilcer-M (or what's now called Mobilcer 195) available through most Mobil distributors. This thread covers some of it, a lot more info can be found by simply typing 'mobilcer' or 'end sealer' in the search box at the top of this page, just under the title & ticking the www.woodworkforums.com box...

problem seems they are drying out too quickly . if they were waxed all over ,more wax or sealer wont make much difference . for your wood and your comfort. i suggest you insulate your roof .and perhaps keep blanks buried in sawdust/shavings . to keep it cool ,and moist . in the tropics the humidity slows the drying , but we get days you can almost hear the wood cracking . myrtle does crack or shrink . when drying also cheers bob

Thanks guys for your help. Had a look at the sealed blanks today but havn't noticed any new cracks. (I know the day is not over yet ).

Ern, if I rough turn to an even wall thickness, then place the blank in a cardboard box with shavings/chaff, will that be equivalent to placing it in a plakky bag? The reason I ask is, I don't have plakky bags and have about 10 blanks.

Bob, after I rough turn and seal the blanks with this Mobilcer sealer won't that slow down the drying process to be consistent all around preventing checks; or is myrtle one of those temprimental unpredictable timbers that cracks when it feels like it no matter what you seal it with? You're right mate, with this recent hot scorching Melbourne weather you actually can hear timber crack; exactly the same sound as breaking a tooth pick

garbage bags heavy ones

Originally Posted by Evan Pavlidis

Thanks guys for your help. Had a look at the sealed blanks today but havn't noticed any new cracks. (I know the day is not over yet ).

Ern, if I rough turn to an even wall thickness, then place the blank in a cardboard box with shavings/chaff, will that be equivalent to placing it in a plakky bag? The reason I ask is, I don't have plakky bags and have about 10 blanks.

Bob, after I rough turn and seal the blanks with this Mobilcer sealer won't that slow down the drying process to be consistent all around preventing checks; or is myrtle one of those temprimental unpredictable timbers that cracks when it feels like it no matter what you seal it with? You're right mate, with this recent hot scorching Melbourne weather you actually can hear timber crack; exactly the same sound as breaking a tooth pick

Evan,

I only seal on the outside on my roughs. I must have at least 50+ roughed bowls, platters etc and don't have a big problem with cracking. I do check and if any cracking appears I use a bit of CA glue. Most blanks are stored in plastic or cloth bags, if not sometimes a extra coat of end-sealer a month of three after the first. It seems as though some moisture can escape through the end-sealer. Hot humid days are not too bad BUT when the humidity drops cracking is much more prevelent.

Peter

Evan, no cling wrap?

And yes, Myrtle is one of those timbers so IMO if it's started checking you have to either wrap it or completely turn it while green. You can try rough turning one and see if it settles while the others are wrapped.

Originally Posted by Little Festo

I only seal on the outside on my roughs. I must have at least 50+ roughed bowls, platters etc and don't have a big problem with cracking. .......

I follow the same principles in that I cover the outside of the rough in newspaper. Seems to slow the drying from the outside just enough to let the inside keep pace. I've had very little cracking from some pretty cantankerous timbers since I started using this method. Gave up putting ANY blanks in plastic after some serious mould problems . (even buried in shavings in a plastic bag!)

myrtle is a little cantankerous . rough turn and cover with wax or cerm . pile of sawdust stops it getting so hot .and slows the breeze down . insulating the shed roof is great up here ,you can be heard when its raining and work when its hot . what you are after is to even out the water transfer and slow it don . cheers bob

this is a dry bit.

Rough turn , submerge in soap solution ( 1:1 ) for a week, air dry for a month , finish turning .
Always works for me