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  1. #1
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    Default Threaded spindle arbor for a drill chuck

    Hi guys

    So, I've just got my first ever lathe, an excellent condition cheap Ryobi setup.
    IMAG3486.jpg
    Been getting tip from a wood turner mate, this forum and YouTube (Ian Robertson is fantastic).
    Anyway, I have a project in mind that will require a drill chuck mounted on the head stock spindle, and the spindle isnt hollow.
    IMAG3493.jpg
    Any suggestion on where I can get a screw on arbor/insert for the chuck?

    More details:
    I'm looking to turn timber handles for a range of tools I make. Handles will be 170mm long and need a 6mm hole running dead straight down the middle for 160mm depth. Until now, I've been getting dowels and drilling down the middle on the drill press, but when using a bit that long it often flexes resulting in a crooked hole. My plan is to drill a timber blank, mount a 6mm rod into the hole, fit the rod into the chuck and turn it to desired shape.
    Unfortunately, I cant mount a drill chuck to the tail stock and drill it that way instead as the cheap lather has a fixed bearing for its live center.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Hi Heffa,
    you could use a Woodturners Lathe chuck. Mine would certainly grip onto a 6mm rod. But I think that might cost more than you paid for the Ryobi Lathe.?
    Cheers,
    Steck

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by steck View Post
    you could use a Woodturners Lathe chuck.
    And, then you could do some other things on that lathe other than just spindle turning between centres.



    Sent from my ZTE T84 using Tapatalk
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  5. #4
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    Yeah, I had considered a full chuck, but cost is an issue. As stated, even a cheap chuck is more than I paid for the lathe [emoji14]

    Sent from my HTC 2PXH3 using Tapatalk

  6. #5
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    The Chinese make some really cheap chucks, and it's the arbor that's going to cost you more in the end.

    When I bought a 16mm Jacobs chuck for my lathe a while back, the chuck (fully imported from China) cost less than the locally made arbor with a Morse taper on one end and a Jacobs taper on the other. There is a lot more machining in making an entire chuck than turning a taper on each end of an arbor, and as the salesman said at the time, the price the Chinese sell the chuck for hardly covers the cost of the steel used.

    You might be able to get en engineering shop to turn you an arbor with the female thread on one end and a Jacobs taper on the other, or even easier would be to use a threaded chuck. Perhaps someone in the metal working forums would be prepared to help you out for cost plus a little bit - it's worth asking.

  7. #6
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    I have a Chinese clone of a Vicmarc chuck. Its pin jaws have a minimum grip of 5mm.

    Food for thought.

    Cheers,
    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

  8. #7
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    Cheers for the advice.
    I'm gonna have a look at cheap lathe chucks, see what I can find.
    The Lathe itself is a Ryobi HL-100, in other words one of the generic Chinese cheapies that everyone rebrands. From what I can tell, its a 3/4 10TPI thread (I dont have a bolt or nut handy to confirm.) Any suggestions on cheap chucks?

  9. #8
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    This is a chuck mounted on a No2 MT arbor; $20US shipped.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pc-...c-9110bbd3b50c
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    This is a chuck mounted on a No2 MT arbor; $20US shipped.
    Those lathes don't have a MT shaft and thus Heffa's problem.

    Perhaps a Jacobs chuck with a thread mounting like this, and then have an adaptor made up to match the lathe spindle thread and the chuck thread. The adaptor is likely to cost big bucks if done commercially. If you don't have a mate that can do it for you then it it may not be worth the cost for what you can do with it.

    If you can afford it, a proper wood lathe chuck would be a more versatile option.
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeilS View Post
    Perhaps a Jacobs chuck with a thread mounting like this, and then have an adaptor made up to match the lathe spindle thread and the chuck thread. The adaptor is likely to cost big bucks if done commercially. If you don't have a mate that can do it for you then it it may not be worth the cost for what you can do with it.

    If you can afford it, a proper wood lathe chuck would be a more versatile option.
    Cheers! Yeah, I do have a mate who might be able to make up an adaptor for me, just gotta wait a couple of months as he is just moving into a new place at the moment.
    Yes, I'm gonna keep my eye out for a cheapie wood lathe chuck. In the meantime, I'm gonna experiment with making a jig of some sort that I can mount to the faceplate. Got a couple of ideas

  12. #11
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    Why does the chuck need to be at the head stock, and not the tail stock end? My old lathe had the same head stock.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve r View Post
    Why does the chuck need to be at the head stock, and not the tail stock end? My old lathe had the same head stock.
    The OP wants to grip the work piece in the chuck, so it needs to go on the headstock.

  14. #13
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    You have what I would call a good boat anchor. If you have big boat it would make a good anchor. Almost any money you spend on chucks and attachments are not going to fit most of the better lathes that are on today's market. Sorry to be so harsh, but wasting money could be worse than knowing the truth.

    Does the project involve drilling or better yet what is the project? There are usually some other methods to accomplish the same end results. Tell me what you want to make, and I will TRY to figure out a way to get it done.

  15. #14
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    The only wrinkle seems to be the need for the hole depth to be less than the length of the handle.

    Consider using an over-length blank, with the hole full length and your faceplate contraption for centering; the tailstock cone engages the far end of the hole. Turn the handle, with near-end means for a ferrule if used, and cut to length. Plug the offending hole with a dowel or decorative device.

    Cheers,
    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by joe greiner View Post
    The only wrinkle seems to be the need for the hole depth to be less than the length of the handle.

    Consider using an over-length blank, with the hole full length and your faceplate contraption for centering; the tailstock cone engages the far end of the hole. Turn the handle, with near-end means for a ferrule if used, and cut to length. Plug the offending hole with a dowel or decorative device.

    Cheers,
    Joe
    Thats an interesting idea, didnt think of that. I could event just go with the spur center at the headstock end.
    Cheers dude, that might be the way to go

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