Thread: Threading Wooden Faceplates

Great results from Pop's Shed, good one guys.

great news on the tommy bar ... good on Pop's Shed


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art

I have the tap all ready to go but found I don't have a 7/8" drill bit.

Searched ebay etc and all I can find are US suppliers that provide free postage to US customers but charge like a wounded bull for Australian customers. Bunning and Pops Shed don't have any. Does anyone have any ideas where I might find a 7/8 bit?

Cheers

Dave

Would a 22mm spade bit cut the mustard? - it's only 0.23 of a mil out in theory.


(I can only assume it would cut the wood )

Originally Posted by MrFez

I have the tap all ready to go but found I don't have a 7/8" drill bit.

Searched ebay etc and all I can find are US suppliers that provide free postage to US customers but charge like a wounded bull for Australian customers. Bunning and Pops Shed don't have any. Does anyone have any ideas where I might find a 7/8 bit?

Cheers

Dave

Dave, I used a 7/8" Forstner bit. Besides being easier to come by, it does a neater job. I got mine from Carbatec last year. In a set, but I'm pretty sure they also sell them separate.

Edit: Not so easy to come by after all, but see the following post.

Dave, I just checked Carbatec and they don't appear to have any individual 7/8" Forstner bits any more. They don't even have the cheap set I bought now.

They do have a set containing one, actually a sawtooth set, but it's $58.50 + postage for a 16-piece set, here: http://www.carbatec.com.au/16-piece-...-bit-set_c8990
(The top set are imperial.)

I did manage to find a single one on eBay, from the US, for
AU$5.34 + AU$4.49 postage, here:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Drill-Bit...item3a9004272a

Steve
If you can't find the right size bit,just bore the nearest undersize then enlarge with your detail gouge.Thats what I had to do when I wanted a hole for my M30 tap and it worked fine.
Ted

Originally Posted by turnerted

Steve
If you can't find the right size bit,just bore the nearest undersize then enlarge with your detail gouge.Thats what I had to do when I wanted a hole for my M30 tap and it worked fine.
Ted

I'm right Ted, I have a 7/8" Forstner bit and have already threaded one, but Dave, (MrFez), will be glad to hear this.
Good idea.

7/8" = 22.225mm

I can get a 22mm forstner bit on ebay free delivery for around $4 AU. I know because I just got one

A spade bit would likely do the job too and easy to source if you want it in a hurry


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art

Originally Posted by DaveTTC

7/8" = 22.225mm

I can get a 22mm forstner bit on ebay free delivery for around $4 AU. I know because I just got one
A spade bit would likely do the job too and easy to source if you want it in a hurry
Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art

I thought a 22mm might be a bit tight, thinking about how hard it was to thread my piece of Tas Oak, but I guess it is only about 1/4mm under.

If boring right through, a spade bit might make a bit of a mess when breaking through, I was thinking. A Forstner or sawtooth bit would be cleanest in that regard.

I just used a 25mm on either redgum or swamp mahogany ... not sure which piece it was. It is on my lathe now and I screwed it onto the spindle by hand with out using a tap but needer multigrips to get the last two turns ... it is perfect for what I am doing atm

I spindle tap would be so much better though


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art

Thanks for all the good advice guys.

I have a 7/8 spade bit and thought it would do the job, unfortunately the length and narrow width of the shank resulted in much too much movement at the point of contact ~ and the spike (front guide of the bit - probably a better word for it) may interfere with what I wanted to achieve on the other end (Jam Chuck).

I'm now looking at the forstner bit that Hermit provided the link to.

Thanks for starting this thread Hermit, I've enjoyed and learnt from the comments and video links, not to mention given the credit card a workout. By the way, I see the taps have gone up again, now 39 + postage. He must be watching this thread.

Dave

Originally Posted by MrFez

Thanks for all the good advice guys.

I have a 7/8 spade bit and thought it would do the job, unfortunately the length and narrow width of the shank resulted in much too much movement at the point of contact ~ and the spike (front guide of the bit - probably a better word for it) may interfere with what I wanted to achieve on the other end (Jam Chuck).

I'm now looking at the forstner bit that Hermit provided the link to.

Thanks for starting this thread Hermit, I've enjoyed and learnt from the comments and video links, not to mention given the credit card a workout. By the way, I see the taps have gone up again, now 39 + postage. He must be watching this thread.

Dave

Wow.
He's keen. That's pretty hot for a second-hand tap with some rust.

easy tap ... if you can get a bolt the right size get an angle grinder and cut four slots down the bolt. You can grip the bolt in your lathe and with a sanding disc can sand/grind a leading taper on it to if you want.

We are only tapping timber ... a bolt sould more than do the job. As yet I have not been able to source a 1x10 bolt. I got a 1x8 which I can modify


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art