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Thread: Threading Wooden Faceplates
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6th May 2014, 08:01 PM #76
$2.35 for a 22 mm forstner bit with free postage
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131121779247...84.m1439.l2649
price goes up and down withthe size chosen.
Dave the turning cowboy
turning wood into art
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6th May 2014, 11:01 PM #77Deceased
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When I was looking at taps I thought of a bolt or nuts to use but I could not get a 1 x 10 bolt or nut from any of the specialized bolt retailers in the Melbourne yellow pages only a lengths of threaded rod at exorbitant prices. So I settled on the tap from McJings.
Only use it occasionally as I find that I can get a 100 mm face plate from Pop's shed for about $ 14.00 which is more accurate for repeated use. Of course I don't have to pay postage as it is only a short drive from me.
Peter.
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6th May 2014, 11:11 PM #78
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7th May 2014, 10:32 AM #79GOLD MEMBER
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My daily driver lathe has a 33mm X 3.5 spindle thread. The tap for same is an arm, a leg, and your first born child.
As I make mostly bowls using a chuck, and have a spur drive center that fits in the chuck, I have made face plates, sanding plates, a buffing wheel, and chucks to hold eggs etc., with a spigot that is grabbed by the chuck.
I have them all marked to match the #1 jaw so that the position is repeatable.
The system saves a lot of interchanging between face plate, chuck, and other accessories.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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7th May 2014, 10:46 AM #80
Sounds like you're well set up in that regard, Paul.
I should do the same for GP items, but my main interest in threading is really for vacuum chucking. I want to make a range of vac cups, threaded on the back. The 1" x 10tpi BSF taps are much cheaper, too. I got the first, second-hand for $33 delivered, then found a brand new one for $34 delivered. (The first is going to a worthy cause.)
At first I considered buying 3" faceplates, but that can get expensive pretty quickly, even at $14 each from Pop's Shed over here.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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7th May 2014, 11:36 AM #81GOLD MEMBER
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Steve,
My post was just to throw in an alternative to making wooden face plates. It is a bit hard to make a 4 jaw chuck vacuum tight.
I have not aspired to a vacuum chuck yet. I can see where it would be handy for finishing natural edge bowls, which I do make.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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7th May 2014, 11:49 AM #82
A pretty good alternative - much easier to do, and as you mentioned, cheaper than buying a tap for a 33 x 3.5 spindle. There are vacuum setups available that go into a scroll chuck (or onto the spindle) and have a hose coming off the side, rather than through the spindle. You've probably seen them, you've been at it a lot longer than me. I was looking at the Vicmarc version yesterday. Not bad looking, but I'm too cheap.
I have not aspired to a vacuum chuck yet. I can see where it would be handy for finishing natural edge bowls, which I do make.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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7th May 2014, 01:26 PM #83
I have come up with a design where vacuum chucking works with a face plate on your scroll chuck too ... I should have been a designer I'm sure
Dave the turning cowboy
turning wood into art
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7th May 2014, 09:11 PM #84
I thought about making that type too, but decided to go the usual way, through the headstock spindle, to keep the hose well out of the way.
Here's the Vicmarc ones I mentioned:
( http://www.vicmarc.com/default.asp?contentID=548 )
Rotating Union Vac Chuck.JPG... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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7th May 2014, 09:25 PM #85
yeah I need to trick mine up a bit
Dave the turning cowboy
turning wood into art
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7th May 2014, 09:55 PM #86
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7th May 2014, 10:48 PM #87Deceased
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I have the Vicmarc one, being the centre pic as I use the vacuum cleaner for my vac source. I've got mine with a chuck adapter so it screws straight on the head stock spindle or onto a chuck and have made my own cups using pvc pipe joiners onto small face plates. Pipe joiners came from the US as they are much more solid and stronger and were free.
Easy to put together and very accurate.
Peter.
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7th May 2014, 11:04 PM #88
Can I ask the price Peter?
I looked at the pretty pics on the Vicmarc site, but didn't query them regarding the cost.
I wouldn't trust myself to make a leak-proof rotating union if I decided to go with that method, but I'm wary of the cost of the Vicmarc.
To fit your home-made cups, did you have a problem getting them to fit on the Vicmarc rotating union? It looks like a fairly large diameter thread.
For the vacuum cups, I'm still up in the air as to whether I want to turn timber cups or use PVC. I like the idea of the PVC type, in a groove on a sealed timber faceplate.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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7th May 2014, 11:41 PM #89Deceased
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Of hand I can't remember but I'll have a look tomorrow in the workshop to see if I can find the invoice. Wasn't cheap but cheaper then buying a vacuum pump for my compressor. Besides putting a through pipe through my lathes would be a fiddly task that I didn't want to do. This way I can put them on any of my lathes. Much simpler then fiddling about with different length of piping and couplers.
To fit your home-made cups, did you have a problem getting them to fit on the Vicmarc rotating union? It looks like a fairly large diameter thread.
For the vacuum cups, I'm still up in the air as to whether I want to turn timber cups or use PVC. I like the idea of the PVC type, in a groove on a sealed timber faceplate.
Could take some photos tomorrow if you like.
Peter.
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8th May 2014, 12:11 AM #90
I think that will be too expensive for my blood, with Vermec faceplates etc. as well, Peter.
I think I'll stick to the through-spindle method.
If I use PVC for the cups, I'm planning to just use normal PVC pipe in the required diameters, with the 2mm closed-cell Neoprene that I bought the other day for seals, glued on the lip. Cheap, cheap, cheap - that's me.
I'll still have to set up the piping and couplers, becuase I want to put a vacuum gauge and bleed valve on it, and use the vacuum pump rather than a vac cleaner. Possibly two valves - one for vacuum bleed adjustment and another to use as an on/off switch to release a bowl with the pump running without upsetting my vacuum setting.
I'm just trying to work out how to attach my adaptor to the handwheel without drilling holes in it at the moment. I'll only drill if absolutely necessary.
Thanks for the link to the 'Rubber Chucky' site, too. I'd never heard of them.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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