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6th June 2008, 08:19 PM #1
timber suitable for utensils and containers
Hi, can someone please rattle off a list of suitable timbers for turning kitchen utensils that are safe to be used with food? such as honey dippers, egg cups, pots, bowls etc particularly items that may need frequent washing/rinsing.
i know that i can't use camphor laurel and any other scented timbers as they may taint food.
does anyone know where i can purchase some orange oil to use on the aforementioned items?
thanks in advance.
BB
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6th June 2008, 08:38 PM #2
Ti tree, most eucalypti and avoid Burls, they have holes in them
Pat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
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6th June 2008, 09:21 PM #3
Wood from almost any fruit tree.
Citrus, Apple, Pear, Cherry, Plum, Walnut, etc., etc., etc...
(Unless it is spalted.)
- Andy Mc
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6th June 2008, 09:22 PM #4
thanks Pat, will see what aussie timbers i can get hold of.
heard that maple is supposed to be good too but not sure which type. does anyone know about this pls?
is radiata pine ok to use with food? i would like to know about a variety of timbers that i can use so i can do different things for different folks!
cheers,
BB
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6th June 2008, 09:28 PM #5
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6th June 2008, 09:58 PM #6
Mango? Never tried it for myself, but from what I hear it's prone to be attacked by blue-stain fungus while drying. You could search these forums for posts containing "Mango" by "Cliff Rogers" for more info/opinions.
If you're cutting up & drying your own logs/branches for turning, then you should split them in half through the pith/heartwood to help reduce splitting.
- Andy Mc
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6th June 2008, 10:16 PM #7
Hi guys, I made a batch of timber spoons a while back from some scraps of Tasie Myrtle I had left over from a job. They worked a treat everyone loves them, don't seem to have any taste or other issues. On my web site under turning if you want to look see.
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6th June 2008, 11:09 PM #8
Nice site Claw Hama.
(quote)does anyone know where i can purchase some orange oil to use on the aforementioned items?(quote)
Bowerbird, you may like to try the Food Safe Finish search, which will reveal a few "revelations". What fixed your tummy as a kid is the clue!
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6th June 2008, 11:27 PM #9
No need to cut square for subsequent turning round. Either way, you cut "air" for a while (thump, thump, thump) - roughing gouge preferred. To find the centre, cut some disks of cardboard in various diameters with a centre hole to mark the ends. Fit the maximum size disk at each end. If there's a mid-span deviation, adjust the centre point to maximise the piece size. At least one of the blokes here uses a single perspex disk showing concentric circles. Google [centre finder] or [center finder] to locate a pic and identify the perpetrator(s).
There are special circumstances where you can use the whole log for spindle turning, but in general you can let the log crack where it likes and split it there so as to use the parts with shrinkage stress relieved by the splitting. Find the centres as described above.
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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6th June 2008, 11:28 PM #10
Thanks watson, Bowerbird with my spoons I boil them in salt water to season them and wash out any excess sap etc and then when dry I give them a good coat of olive oil. Some of Organoils products are food safe also which I normaly use on my turned bowls. Check their web site, good home grown Ausie products too.
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7th June 2008, 09:47 AM #11
thanks claw, watson, skew & joe for your very helpful comments and search ideas etc.
yeah, i have a nice piece of tassie myrtle, am saving that until i decide what to do with it rather than cut it up for smaller stuff.
i guess radiata pine must be ok as i got a freebie breadboard from a mitre 10 demo. made a rolling pin about 10 years ago out of radiata. the shortbread bikkies and pastry tasted ok. so unless someone says "shock horror, no don't use radiata!" then I will try making some new utensils with it until the myrtle beckons me.
cheers,
BB
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7th June 2008, 10:28 AM #12
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7th June 2008, 02:47 PM #13
There was talk of olive oil NOT being good because it can go rancid. I use Eco Wood wipe (available from Bunnings. ) for my spoons and handles. You have to wait for the orange smell to go, but it seems great. Salad spoons doing good service. The Organoil Hard burnishing oil says its food safe on the label. You can just wipe it on for a matte finish, or burnish it for gloss. I think the nut oils are supposed to be OK. Wall Nut oil and such, from supermarket.
I am currently learning to turn with ye olde Radiatta pine. Its hard to get a nice finish on because of tear out and stuff. Needs lots sand paper work but never as nice as you want it to be. Plane tree has been suggested as good for utensils, but I've no idea were to get it other than following around the council tree loppers.:hmmanne-maria.
Tea Lady
(White with none)
Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.
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7th June 2008, 02:52 PM #14
Hi Tea Lady, never had any problem with Olive oil, I have done bread boards, spoons, salad bowls all for years without any drama. Have been temped of late to try wallnut oil though.
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7th June 2008, 05:59 PM #15
thanks tea lady & claw.
yeah i was told not to use cooking oils but i have used sunflower oil or some other cheap oil on my breadboard but it isn't on there long enough to go rancid because it gets washed every time i use it. it dries quickly and i haven't re-oiled it for ages. will check out the orange oil & walnut oil etc, peanut oil might be a goer too. will investigate the organoils too.
cheers,
BB
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