Thread: 'New' tool ??!!??!!

Originally Posted by

Have been known to just turn to nothing.

Yup. Sometimes just for fun; or to produce shavings for the garden. Usually, but not always, because the chunk is hopeless.

Joe

Originally Posted by joe greiner

Yup. Sometimes just for fun; or to produce shavings for the garden. Usually, but not always, because the chunk is hopeless.

Joe

All of the above, mainly the first 'cause I don't get the chance very often.

Originally Posted by TTIT

The Territory boys should have done the patent thingy - have a look what this mob are marketing as 'new'.
I'm thinking I might revisit the carbide cutter I setup for turning Quinine and add a deflector - could be interesting

Hi Vern
Have you scared these guys off, link not working. "Service unavailable"

Originally Posted by Grumpy John

Hi Vern
Have you scared these guys off, link not working. "Service unavailable"

Link is working for me GJ, just tried it now and it's fine

Originally Posted by DJ's Timber

Link is working for me GJ, just tried it now and it's fine

O.K. works now, problem might have been at my end or maybe site was down for maintenance .

Well you guys, I have one and I have to tell you, it works, it works REALLY well.

Take a look at my videos........

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQVBdh8rArE"]Stu's Review of the Ci1 Easy Rougher 1/4[/ame]

This is a lot more than just a scraper, trust me.

The carbide insert is sharp enough to slice your finger open.

Since I did the video, I've roughed out Seven 10" bowls, in Red Keyaki, which is a very hard cousin of Elm, I usually have to sharpen about every minute or two of turning with my P&N Supra flute gouge. The wood is NOT wet, it is mostly dried out. I finally did turn my carbide insert one turn, but I found that it did not really make a difference, the 1st side was still very sharp.

The angle the insert is sharpened at makes it NOT self feed and now that I've had more time on the tool, I now SELDOM stall the lathe. Also, when doing this work, the tool is NOT beating you up, it is dead easy to use. I know the handles are not pretty, but you mainly push with this tool, well with most lathe tools the push cut is the one you use the most, the funky handle (I made my own) helps with hand fatigue, you do not have to grip the tool as hard, I roughed out 4 10" bowls in about two hours, and I really think I could do this all day, as it is much easier on the hands and arms than roughing with a bowl gouge.

You guys may very well be real skeptics, which is fine, I was too, but now, I'm convinced, this tool certainly has a place in my tool rack.

Does it do "everything" no, of course not, it is designed to quickly, efficiently and easily rough out bowl blanks, it does that well.

I in no way get paid for saying any of this, I'm just a very satisfied customer, and Craig is great to deal with, no problems at all shipping to Japan.

Cheers!

Good on ya Stu, thanks for putting that up....
Now I want to see how it goes on real timber.

Stu
thanks for the clip - looked like fun.
does it replace your gouge or is there a place for both?
and being a sceptic (comes with the territory) how will it perform on some of our cranky timbers?

Is the bar that special? or could we knock up our own and just get the tips?

Cheers

OK, I know that that Red Keyaki is not your Oz timber, but it is HARD and it is HARD ON tools, trust me on that, makes stuff like Hard Maple look like butter to me.

I certainly think there is room on anyone's tool rack for this tool, make your own, go for it, give it a shot, but this is one VERY nicely made piece of kit, if you know me at all, you know I like to make my own stuff, heck, I built my own bandsaw, but the quality of this piece is not something you are used to seeing anymore, I think for the money, it is a great deal. You might want to make the deflector shield, but that too is VERY well made and at only $25, was hard to justify making my own, my time is worth something

BTW, not sure who you are calling a Septic, but I'll have you know, that I'm a Canuck

Cheers!

Hmm, very interesting.

I guess seeing that its very sharp then the tip must belong to the carbide grade that is a very fine grain structure. Normally these are used in the finishing cuts on metal turning.

Just a couple of questions what is the front angle on the tip?
If you hold the tip up to the light is there any discernable polishing to the cutting edge to date?

I am familar with Chinese Elm and it is hard when its very dry and somewhat brittle.

I have got some of these fine grade tips somewheres , will have to dig em out and give em another look at.

Hughie, you mentioned earlier you used ceramic cutters. I am trying to turn some Qld Black Walnut. This timber blunt's HSS in 2 turns, a Glasser Hi-tec gouge in 7 to 9 turns and tungsten for stainless steel of my metal lathe lasts about 5 minutes and the sharp cutting edge is worn off. Went to Carmet Micona and he told me that ceramic was too fragile to use on timber. Any suggestions on where to from here would be appreaciated as I really would like to finish these large bowls.
regards,
Crocy.

Originally Posted by Stu in Tokyo

BTW, not sure who you are calling a Septic, but I'll have you know, that I'm a Canuck

Cheers!

You had me there for a second like 'what's he on about?'
Sorry didn't pick up the correct accent I thought you were one of us oz type people, ie from a land dry and dusty rather then cold and icy.
and the wood turning gear, I would have expected something in red, akin to Mountie gear
I sincerely hope you whistle the classic python song whilst turning

Originally Posted by hughie

I saw this on another forum a few weeks ago, didnt do much for me. I doubt it would handle burls that well or any dry local hardwood.

Green it should be ok.

TCT will always be for me a rough out tool, maybe some scraping of the corduroy re a shaped scraper set up.

I have been using ceramic tips they will hold an edge several times longer than conventional TCT tips. The tip I used at the Turnfest was ceramic it still looks ok.

For ripping out on green timber the Proforme is hard to beat.

Ceramic tips? Where are they? I'm kinda looking for something like that to turn the pottery with. I have a TCT tool which is like tiny and came from america. Cost over $100, but I go through prolly50 $5 steel loop tools per year so........ (Why is pottery so hard on edges when it is squishy? Clay is made of tiny particles of silica. What wears out your tools in wood turning? Bingo!!!)

I was going to say "why should one invest over $100 on one of these (plus freight) when you could get a P&N roughing gouge for half the price"

A quick check of the price at Hare & Forbes and also Vermec suggests that you could expect to pay that for a P&N Prices seem to have gone up in the last few months

So I wont say anything!

But I do note that Stu seems to imply that these are better then a sunday roast, if not ...