Thread: Tormek sharpening machine

Originally Posted by rsser

If Jeff you can locate a #120 white or pink AlOx wheel, in 8" with 5/8 or bush-set hole, pls let me know.

I have one you are welcome to Ern.

Originally Posted by rsser

If Jeff you can locate a #120 white or pink AlOx wheel, in 8" with 5/8 or bush-set hole, pls let me know.

Or if you want to buy a new one have a look here

I'm not trying to 'poo poo' the Tormek because I know it does a very good job. However, there is no denying they are a very expensive sharpening option and that there are, to my thinking, higher priority items to purchase and very acceptable cheaper options. I also wonder whether there is the thought that the Tormek is the silver bullet to all turning problems. I do have a Tormek but don't use it; I simply prefer the other options in my workshop.

There are other cheaper options to the tormek, machineryhouse sell the sheppach version for a couple of hundred.

Ive had both (tormek first, stolen then scheppach) and there is no real difference other than the 500$.

Originally Posted by brendan stemp

I'm not trying to 'poo poo' the Tormek because I know it does a very good job. However, there is no denying they are a very expensive sharpening option and that there are, to my thinking, higher priority items to purchase and very acceptable cheaper options. I also wonder whether there is the thought that the Tormek is the silver bullet to all turning problems. I do have a Tormek but don't use it; I simply prefer the other options in my workshop.

For someone not trying to bag the Tormek system, you're not doing too bad a job of it, Brendan.

I've got two and both find regular use - from sharpening planer blades, wood chisels, knives and of course wood turning chisels. I also have the Truegrind set up and use it as well, plus the spark grinder attachment for the Tormek bar.

The short answer is that the Tommek user starts way ahead of the rest at all levels. I defy anyone to come forward and say you can sharpen mini chisels and small gouges on a spark grinder.

The jig which sets the bar on the A or B settings also makes the system faster than any other, including the True grind.

What else? Ken Wraight uses one. So does . Enough said.

I think the real value in the Tormek system is in the jigs, for me anyway.

In fact I was lucky enough to pick up some used Tormek jigs for less than half new cost.

I use these jigs on both my 8" spark grinder (Alox 120 wheel) and on my Scheppach Tiger 2500. I made up my own support to use the Tromek jigs on the spark grinder and feel that this combination cost effective.

I have used the Tormek T7 at a forum get together at Robbos' and whilst it is somewhat more refined than the Scheppach, the Scheppach does everything I ask of it.

To sum up, if you are starting in wood turning, I would look at a dry grinder with Alox 120 wheel and Tormek jigs, then add the Scheppach Tiger 2500 wet grinder. You could buy all of this new for less than the price of a Tormek T7.

Jeff, I can shape any high carbon tool on a #46 Norton 3X wheel running at something like 3000rpm. Yes, the T. is less likely to blue it and is quicker but how many hours do you have to work to pay for it? I've sold mine.

And I can get a better edge on a bench chisel etc by honing on a ceramic whetstone or using abrasive film on a bit of dowel than with the T. Try and take the machining marks out of a bowl gouge with the T. leather wheel. The paste is 3 microns max when what you often need to start with is 100 mu. (And there's no point in getting a fab polish on the bevel when the flute has tram tracks).

FWIW I have the T jigs and BGM in front of a #120 diamond wheel. Leaves a nice polish on the bevel (but does tend to raise a burr bigger than you'd expect).

cadas, as others here will tell you, Scheppach QC is hit and miss. You got lucky. But yes, it's a viable alternative if you have to have a wetgrinder. With HSS tools, you don't. If you have to have a T, then amateur turners should look at the T3.

, thanks, I'll pop down. Jim, thanks for the info. Last time I did the digging no-one in Aus had them.

Originally Posted by rsser

, thanks, I'll pop down. Jim, thanks for the info. Last time I did the digging no-one in Aus had them.

Have been selling them for the last 18 years in both the 25mm and 40mm wide

Thanks Jim. Good to know.

I can and do sharpen mini gouges and chisels on a bench grinder, and have been doing so for 40 + years, and I can produce a shaving sharp edge on chisels and plane blades etc without the need to use 5 different grades of sharpening media. The point here is it is a useful piece of equipment, but not a nesessary piece of equipment and if you can't sharpen with the basic stuff buying a Tormec or one of it's clones will not solve your problems

The crux of all this argy bargy and some even Poo Poo others is that different people have different ways of sharpening their tools

Whether it is with a spark grinder with a Tru grind jig or a tormek or stones and laps.

We all want similar results , sharp tools, how sharp depends on each persons value of sharp.

The other one constant is that all agree that jigs are a necesity, not everyone works all day every day and can sharpen free hand, even some that do are now converts to jigs.

The main thing is that everyone has their way of doing it and others will disagree that is what makes the world go round.

It is good to try other jigs and fixtures and sometimes they will work better for you and you take them up as your way sometimes they dont and you stick to your tried and true way, dont try and discourage someone from trying a new tool or gadget just because you think your way is best.

Everyone's circumstance is different also. If you have no experience sharpening, and don't know what to do or what to look for, then you could likely justify the cost of a Tormek and its related jigs - should you have the funds to do so.

If you don't have the funds but still have no experience, then there is plenty of other ways to get a sharp edge. Read, experiment, adapt and apply. There is a myriad of cheaper ways to sharpen things, but the faster and cheaper it is, the more experience is often required. I freehand some things and still use jigs for others. Get what suits you, but don't be afraid to experiment with other options to build your skill base.

Wise words Jim & Durdge39!
You partly support my earlier argument, learn your craft. Experiment, try different methods get experience, using a T. is not the panacea or the only way of getting a good edge.

Try as some turners might, using a Tormek will not make them a better turner without the skill set that has to be learned.

Just because Turner X uses a T. successfully does not mean that it is the "way" to sharpen and a must have in everyone's kit.

Originally Posted by China

I can and do sharpen mini gouges and chisels on a bench grinder, and have been doing so for 40 + years, and I can produce a shaving sharp edge on chisels and plane blades etc without the need to use 5 different grades of sharpening media. The point here is it is a useful piece of equipment, but not a nesessary piece of equipment and if you can't sharpen with the basic stuff buying a Tormec or one of it's clones will not solve your problems

China,

I haven't been around long enough to know whether mini turning chisels were available 40+ years ago but I have my doubts. Maybe you know things I do not. I have a set of HTs that may be 10+ years old, but not 40.

Tell you what, I'll ask Jim Carroll to send you 2 x 6mm P & N gouges (one spindle, the other a bowl gouge) and get you to sharpen them on your spark grinder. I assume you will be doing it free-hand. I'm expecting a nice shape to both and no burning.

More than happy to pay the freight. You send them back to me, let me know the cost (with forum pics before you send) and then we'll compare with my Tormek grinds.

And take some measurements before you start burning steel on your spark grinder.

And while you are at it, you might explain to potential Tormek owners how you sharpen knives, scissors, planer and plane planes, carving and turnings chisels etc on your spark grinder.

Sorry for the challenge but enough is enough. I've seen first-hand the tools of trade of production turners sharpened free-hand and they aint pretty. And sharpening free-hand should not be a skill you have to learn before you can turn.