Thread: Tormek sharpening machine

Originally Posted by Dean M

With any wet grinder do you need to lower the bucket when not in use all the time? Will it dry out if left over night ?? Just have not seen this clearly answered for a potential new user. ta

I always empty and clean the bucket before quiting for the day. There is usually a surprising amount of gunk in there.

Originally Posted by NCArcher

I always empty and clean the bucket before quiting for the day. There is usually a surprising amount of gunk in there.

Depending on the amount of use the bucket can collect a fair amount of sharpening residue and it is a good practice to clean it out when finished and to flush the bucket thoroughly.
As has been mentioned the stone will load up with this this residue if left in the bucket from previous uses of the machine.

I am happy with my T7,I like the jigs one of the reasons I am pleased to have it.

Cheers

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <woNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> The T7 Tormek unit has a rare Earth magnet inside a small external pocket and is attached under the high water mark. At the end of any sharpening session you will find virtually all metal pieces attached to the plastic inner wall.

Simply emptying the water container out, then using a rag to wipe away the metal filings is sufficient to clean them away.

The grey stuff in the bottom is the part of the wheel that has been ground away either by sharpening or truing up to square.

I don’t believe any other Tormek units have this magnet business thing in their water containers.

Mick.

Originally Posted by Optimark

The T7 Tormek unit has a rare Earth magnet inside a small external pocket and is attached under the high water mark. At the end of any sharpening session you will find virtually all metal pieces attached to the plastic inner wall.

Simply emptying the water container out, then using a rag to wipe away the metal filings is sufficient to clean them away.

The grey stuff in the bottom is the part of the wheel that has been ground away either by sharpening or truing up to square.

I don’t believe any other Tormek units have this magnet business thing in their water containers.

Mick.

This is only on the new units.

If left too long I have found the stone can soften on the saturated side which can then become eccentric due to differential wear - easily corrected but annoying. Good practice to just drop the bucket.

, I have had my T7 for over 1½ years, so when did the new units come out?

I don't believe the other Tormek machines have this magnet, at least they didn't when I bought mine.

The T7 had a couple of different small things their other units didn't have when I purchased, the magnet is one of them.

Mick.

Thanks for the replies. That will help me get on the right track. Cheers

Interesting discussion, debate, argument, dialogue, altercation, discourse on why we buy stuff.
Thanks to those whom contributed

Thanks for the feedback Nick.

If you don't have a new unit and do a deal of HC steel work, you can drop a rare earth magnet into small ziplock bag in the bottom of the tray. This picks up the swarf. You could also glue such a magnet to the bottom outside of the tray and then wipe away the grindings when you clean.

Frankly, I can't see why this is anything other than a cosmetic issue re the stone providing you clean up the tray or regrade the stone regularly. My S. had a steel tray that had rusted a bit so I repainted it and cleaned it out after every session.

Bear in mind that the T. bearings need annual lubing. Not sure about the S.

(Just to keep the pot stirring ;-) the S. 2500 had some design features that at the time T. could have learned from; one they did pick up in time with a kind of kludge).

Hi Dez,
Sorry I'm so late replying to this thread I've been away.
As usual you are getting more bad advice than good on this thread,
The Tormek sharpening system is the best system available, if you can afford it buy it.
The Tormek doesn't need any annual servicing and will sharpen faster and more accurately than any other sharpening system. The people here that are bagging the Tormek often get me to sharpen their tools on my Tormek. Why? The systems that they use are inferior and they can't sharpen tools anyway.
If your tools are razor sharp you will quickly become a much better turner than the people telling you not to buy it.
As I said, if you can afford the best buy it.
If you have any trouble using your Tormek give me a call.

Ken I would like to make a few comments on your post.

As usual you are getting more bad advice than good on this thread.

That's simply not correct; what it reflects is a wide range of people’s experiences of owning a Tormek. The fact that there are more negative that positive posts doesn’t mean that the Tormak or the advice given is bad. It just reflects people’s experiences.

The Tormek sharpening system is the best system available.

Not for everybody. After trying and discarding one, it wasn't the best system for me. There are a few others who have posted that have arrived at the same conclusion.

If your tools are razor sharp you will quickly become a much better turner than the people telling you not to buy it.

So following on from that logic, if I buy a red Ferrari I might become a Formula One driver whereas, those that tell me not to buy one don’t wont? I don’t think so.

Ken this is not a personal attack, I just think some of your statements needed a bit of balance.

A couple of my own observations to finish.

When working with new turners the hardest thing to impart is a method of maintaining a consistent tool angle and profile. Whatever system is used.

Every cut you do on a lathe starts with the grinder or Tormek or whatever is your method.

The sharpest my tools have ever been is when I did use the Tormek but I found the negatives outweighed the positives for the small improvement over a 120 grit white wheel.

Not much point in having a super sharp gouge when roughing out a burl of full dirt and silica.

I think Ern had it right: Fit for Purpose: should be the criteria for each person to decide.

Cheers
Tim

Well said Tim.

Re maintenance, p. 154 of the manual states:

The bearings are greased at the factory. We recommend that you re-grease them every year or so. Use any type of “ball bearing grease”. Remove the stone and pull out the main shaft with the honing wheel and apply grease on the shaft and in the bearings.

Thumbs up to Tim.
Been to quite a few wt demos by the best overseas and local turners over the years. Most of them used dry grinders even though the T was available. The only ones using them seem to be the blokes flogging them.
It's like, "Gee I've got a Stubby or a Vicmarc so I must be a better turner than a Nova owner" I bought a Stubby 1000 after owning a Nova and no, it didn't make me a better turner just like my T7 didn't.
The reason I bought them is because I can afford them, not to make me a better turner.

Originally Posted by Tim the Timber Turner

Ken I would like to make a few comments on your post.

As usual you are getting more bad advice than good on this thread.

That's simply not correct; what it reflects is a wide range of people’s experiences of owning a Tormek. The fact that there are more negative that positive posts doesn’t mean that the Tormak or the advice given is bad. It just reflects people’s experiences.

The Tormek sharpening system is the best system available.

Not for everybody. After trying and discarding one, it wasn't the best system for me. There are a few others who have posted that have arrived at the same conclusion.

If your tools are razor sharp you will quickly become a much better turner than the people telling you not to buy it.

So following on from that logic, if I buy a red Ferrari I might become a Formula One driver whereas, those that tell me not to buy one don’t wont? I don’t think so.

Ken this is not a personal attack, I just think some of your statements needed a bit of balance.

A couple of my own observations to finish.

When working with new turners the hardest thing to impart is a method of maintaining a consistent tool angle and profile. Whatever system is used.

Every cut you do on a lathe starts with the grinder or Tormek or whatever is your method.

The sharpest my tools have ever been is when I did use the Tormek but I found the negatives outweighed the positives for the small improvement over a 120 grit white wheel.

Not much point in having a super sharp gouge when roughing out a burl of full dirt and silica.

I think Ern had it right: Fit for Purpose: should be the criteria for each person to decide.

Cheers
Tim

Tim, I would have been disappointed if you had agreed with me. You and I turn on oppisite ends of the spectrum.
I would be the first to agree that your work could be turned with tools sharpened on either a Tormek or spark grinder.
To make the weird pieces that I do, I need much sharper tools. I need to start sanding at much finer grits than most.
As you said your tools were never as sharp as when you used your Tormek. The fine edges on my small tools only burn when sharpened on a spark grinder. Only the Tormek gets them razor sharp.
I would also agree the Tormek struggles to sharpen realy large tools that are extremely blunt.
I always tell new turners to buy the best jig and grinder they can afford. If they want to buy a Tormek why talk them out of it. Its a decision they will never regret (IMHO).
I still believe the Tormek is the best sharpening system available. There are many top overses turners that agree with me and just as many that don't.
I didn't take your comments as a personal attack. I get very annoyed when people give bad advice and bag a great product. It's even more annoying if the advice comes from people who get me to sharpen their tools.
Most turners that can't get a good sharpening result from their Tormek are usually making a few simple mistakes. Learn to use the product before you bag it.
I'm always happy to help.