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  1. #1
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    May 2004
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    Default Torquata Three point steady

    Hei Guys,
    Does anyone have one of these, I got one today
    The one thing it doesn't have compared to the Woodfast version is nylon wheels but at $79 compared to $215 I thought that was an acceptable sacrifice.

    The first task I used it for was to hold the end of a jarrah handle I made for a chisel and I noticed that even though I was working with fairly hard jarrah that the bearings did mark the timber.

    Plan B is to get some nylon and make some wheels to go over the bearings, since I'm unlikely to need the full throat I figure I can lose 2 or 3 mm of capacity.

    The other thing I would like to do is tap the flange underneath so I can adjust the travel one handed.

    Has anyone tried either of these mods - comments suggestions.

    Cheers
    Smidsy

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Perth, WA
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    1,251

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smidsy
    Hei Guys,

    I noticed that even though I was working with fairly hard jarrah that the bearings did mark the timber.

    Plan B is to get some nylon and make some wheels to go over the bearings,

    Cheers
    Smidsy
    Smidsy,

    Check out inline skate wheels they make good supports for steady rests and do not mark the timber.


  4. #3
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    May 2004
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    Default

    Hei Sprog,
    I actually bought a meter of nylon bar stock yesterday to turn some wheels - if you used skate wheels you would have to turn them down substantially or you'd lose too much capacity.
    Cheers
    Smidsy

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Perth, WA
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    Default

    I made my own steady so the diameter of the wheels didn't matter as this was factored into the design


  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Mount Colah, Sydney
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    Default

    When using a 'hard' steady, which can mark the wood, another tactic is to leave the spot where the steady will be running slightly over-diameter.

    Once you have conpleted the turning/hollowing, you remove the steady, and using LIGHT cuts, with support from your free hand if necessary, clean up the marked area to final diameter and profile.

    A thought to consider, as any non marking wheel is going to be flexible to a degree, which means that under heavy load, it will allow some deflection of the workpiece. This could possibly initiate a dig???

    Alastair
    Last edited by Alastair; 5th Aug 2004 at 03:10 PM. Reason: Spelling!

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Perth, WA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Alastair

    A thought to consider, as any non marking wheel is going to be flexible to a degree, which means that under heavy load, it will allow some deflection of the workpiece. This could possibly initiate a dig???

    Alastair
    I think it would be prudent not to subject the work to a heavy load if the work was of a nature that required the use of a steady and to stick with light cuts.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
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    12,677

    Default

    Smidsy, the specs on the unit say it fits a centre height of 150mm and 175mm - does that mean a centre range between those figures?

    TIA,

    rsser, aka Ern

  9. #8
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    Default

    Hei Em,
    What they mean by height is the distance from the bed to where the centre of work will be.
    The Torquata steady is designed for the MC900/1100, the MC900 has a maximum bowl diameter of about 300mm so the height from the bed to the head shaft is about 150mm - that is the measurement they mean by height.
    In terms of work size, the specs state 6mm to 80mm - this is the size of the work that will fit inside the arms of the steady.

    As for wheels guys, I found a place called Dotmar Plastics (they have branches all over Oz) and I got some nylon bar stock from there. They have all different hardnesses, I explained what I wanted it for and I got some 6SA spec which they say is hard enough to minimize flex but softer than metal.

    Cheers
    Smidsy

  10. #9
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    Jan 2002
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    Melbourne, Aus.
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    Default

    Thanks; good one

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Camden
    Age
    56
    Posts
    247

    Default Torquata steady

    Does anyone have a picture of this? I did an intenet search and it didn't come up with anything.

    roger

  12. #11
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    May 2004
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    Sunshine Coast Queensland
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    Default

    Try
    http://www.timbecon.com.au/productsd...9&prodid=28884

    If that doesn't work, go to timbecon.com.au then look in woodturning - lathe accessories.

    Cheers
    Smidsy

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Perth, WA
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    1,251

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Babytoolman
    Does anyone have a picture of this? I did an intenet search and it didn't come up with anything.

    roger

    Have a look at a home made steady.

    Lathe Steady

    I made mine for a lot less than $20 from a similar design.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Default

    Hei Sprog,
    The problem I see with that design is that there is no opening so you have to take the work off to fit it.
    I only put my steady on the lathe when I need it because it gets in the way of the tool rest, and with the main body being open I can leave the work in place, fit the steady and get the guides perfect before I remove the tail stock.
    Cheers
    Smidsy

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
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    Default

    Hi Smidsy,

    You are absolutely correct, I thought the same when I saw that design.

    The one I made is a variation with an opening at the side, just like the Torquata model.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sunshine Coast Queensland
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    Default

    Hei Sprog,
    That beast looks pretty flash, what material did you use.
    I notice you're in WA, do you ever get to the Liddlelow turning group?
    Cheers
    Smidsy

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