Thanks: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 16 to 20 of 20
Thread: The Ultimate Grinder?
-
18th January 2013, 01:11 PM #16.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,796
Being almost more coffee than wood focussed when I saw your thread title I thought of this
FWIW 900W, 900 rpm, and costs about 50% more the price of the grinder being discussed.
-
18th January 2013 01:11 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
18th January 2013, 02:17 PM #17
Brendan, your right about speed being an issue when grinding carbon steel tools. Too much heat will damage it. Not so the case with HSS.
When first I took up turning in 1982, I too was concerned about grinder damage to my HSS tools. Back then, we didn't have the internet, so I wrote a letter to Jerry Glaser (a metallurgist) asking him if heating up the edge will de-temper and do irreparable harm to the edge. I always used regular gray wheels on the grinder...didn't opt for any pink or white friable.
Jerry's reply put me at ease ~ heating up HSS to a red glow will NOT harm the edge. Cooling the edge with water WILL damage it (micro-fracturing).
Now, it's my understanding that there are new type alloys out that you do not want to heat up...I do not know what they are - someone with more knowledge than I should know which alloys they are.
Here's another source to bear this out:
From: "Ed Huntress" <[email protected]> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Flycutter from hell? Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 01:28:40 GMT >>I remember spending several hours (over the course of a few days) grinding an HSS bit downto a .064" wide 'cutoff tool' 3/8" long for a particularly nasty groove that had to be cut.<< Most people are too cautious grinding hss. You can grind it until it starts to glow red. It actually cuts pretty fast when you apply enough pressure. So does the grinding wheel. <g> Ed Huntress
From: "Ed Huntress" <[email protected]> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Flycutter from hell? Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 15:37:47 GMT >>I have always used water (usually room temperature or so) to cool HSS when grinding tools.<< Never, ever, ever. Change your thinking on this quick. High speed steel is tough stuff, but it can't tolerate that kind of thermal shock. Neither can most other high-alloy tool steels -- and the low-alloy and straight-carbon types (O-1, W-1) can't take the heat to begin with. I use water to cool mild steel when I'm grinding it, and I'll do it on woodworking chisels and plane-iron blades, which I never let get hot enough to show color, anyway. My good ones are never allowed to get too hot to touch. At those low temperatures it's not much of a risk and water dips speed the operation a lot. But you can't grind HSS very well without getting it hot. It can take the heat, right up to a low red glow. What it can't take is thermal shock. >>I hold HSS barehanded and fairly close to the area being ground and I give it a few swishes when I start feeling some warmth.<< That's fine for grinding woodworking chisels, but it's too dainty for grinding high-speed steel. If you can handle it you aren't applying enough pressure to grind it efficiently. HSS requires some pressure, which is hell on grinding wheels but it beats taking an hour to grind a threading bit from a blank. I hold HSS bits with Vise-Grip pliers when I'm grinding them. Sometimes I clamp them in a toolholder and hang onto that. I can grind a threading bit from a 3/8" blank in about five minutes. Ed Huntress </[email protected]></g></[email protected]>Cheers,
Ed
Do something that is stupid and fun today, then run like hell !!!
-
18th January 2013, 08:41 PM #18
Yep, hot HSS and water don't mix, just asking for flying bits of steel whilst turning. I know ever time demos at any club, the first thing he does is throw the tins of water next to the grinder away. Second offence results in more specific aim when throwing away
Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
-
19th January 2013, 10:53 PM #19Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
-
20th January 2013, 03:54 AM #20GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- North Carolina, USA
- Posts
- 2,327
I use an 8 inch white Alox wheel on 1725 RPM grinder. I have several carbon steel tools that came with a lathe or bought in a box full of stuff at auction.
A quick one or two second swipe on the grinder will sharpen them and not harm even the thin small spindle gouge.
The thick blunt edge of a scraper will stand more time on the wheel.
Even if over heated a tool will cut for a bit, then need resharpening.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
Similar Threads
-
Ultimate in OT
By wheelinround in forum WOODTURNING - ORNAMENTAL TURNINGReplies: 12Last Post: 24th November 2011, 01:04 PM -
The ultimate dovetail saw
By Andreas87 in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 28Last Post: 26th September 2011, 01:52 PM -
ultimate tailgater
By fozzy767 in forum TOY MAKINGReplies: 17Last Post: 12th August 2011, 12:14 PM -
ultimate saw
By lonesomebob in forum CLOCKSReplies: 6Last Post: 7th April 2009, 03:00 AM -
Ryobi HBG620 Grinder & HBGSP1 Grinder Stand Review
By Dean in forum HAND TOOLS - POWEREDReplies: 0Last Post: 17th March 2004, 08:03 PM