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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
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    Default Using the Henry Taylor beading tools

    As requested by Jeff ...

    1. Flute up
    2. Tool tip well down, lined up with the workpiece 'equator'
    3. Feed in slowly with slight side to side swivel motion; the imaginary pivot point ideally should be the tool tip, not the tool rest, so there's a wee bit of sliding on the rest.

    Best results with a fresh ground edge (no surprise there).

    The swivelling seems to give a cleaner cut, and with the larger beading tools means not all the edge is in contact at the one time and that reduces the chance of a catch.

    The tool produces an inset bead with half a V cut either side; leave it that way or turn the shoulders away for a free-standing bead.

    You sharpen the 3 bevel faces and they must meet at the edges of the flute.

    Clear as mud?
    Cheers, Ern

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Default







    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  4. #3
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    Default

    Pic of the business end
    Cheers, Ern

  5. #4
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    Default

    Thanks, Ern, I'll go out and try again.

    I know I'm "scraping" but I do need my beads to be the same - however I get there.

  6. #5
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    Default

    Nothing wrong with scraping IMO unless it leaves a lousy finish. You can do very little correction sanding with beads - they lose their shape before you can say 'oh sh*t'.

    The HTs are said to be best for medium density timbers but with a fresh edge I've had good results with softer ones. You just need a light touch.

    And yes, one of their virtues is a regular result.
    Cheers, Ern

  7. #6
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    Default

    Ern,

    I forgot to ask - do you sharpen these tools with a jig? I was thinking of using the flat plate on the Tormek.....

    DJ uses the Hamlet beading tools but I don't like how you sharpen them at all.

  8. #7
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    Default

    No jig Jeff; just use a platform. I don't hone either; use straight off an 80 grit Alox wheel.
    Cheers, Ern

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