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21st October 2009, 09:55 PM #1Hewer of wood
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Using the Henry Taylor beading tools
As requested by Jeff ...
1. Flute up
2. Tool tip well down, lined up with the workpiece 'equator'
3. Feed in slowly with slight side to side swivel motion; the imaginary pivot point ideally should be the tool tip, not the tool rest, so there's a wee bit of sliding on the rest.
Best results with a fresh ground edge (no surprise there).
The swivelling seems to give a cleaner cut, and with the larger beading tools means not all the edge is in contact at the one time and that reduces the chance of a catch.
The tool produces an inset bead with half a V cut either side; leave it that way or turn the shoulders away for a free-standing bead.
You sharpen the 3 bevel faces and they must meet at the edges of the flute.
Clear as mud?Cheers, Ern
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21st October 2009 09:55 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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22nd October 2009, 04:23 AM #2
Pat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
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22nd October 2009, 06:38 AM #3Hewer of wood
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Pic of the business end
Cheers, Ern
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22nd October 2009, 10:45 AM #4Retired
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Thanks, Ern, I'll go out and try again.
I know I'm "scraping" but I do need my beads to be the same - however I get there.
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22nd October 2009, 10:53 AM #5Hewer of wood
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Nothing wrong with scraping IMO unless it leaves a lousy finish. You can do very little correction sanding with beads - they lose their shape before you can say 'oh sh*t'.
The HTs are said to be best for medium density timbers but with a fresh edge I've had good results with softer ones. You just need a light touch.
And yes, one of their virtues is a regular result.Cheers, Ern
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22nd October 2009, 11:39 AM #6Retired
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Ern,
I forgot to ask - do you sharpen these tools with a jig? I was thinking of using the flat plate on the Tormek.....
DJ uses the Hamlet beading tools but I don't like how you sharpen them at all.
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22nd October 2009, 01:27 PM #7Hewer of wood
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No jig Jeff; just use a platform. I don't hone either; use straight off an 80 grit Alox wheel.
Cheers, Ern
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