Thread: Value of old woodfast lathes

Originally Posted by clear out

It’s worth remembering that Woodfast took over Hyco and this lathe of theirs is identical to the Hyco.
I gave a Hyco lathe away a year or so ago here on the forum and a mate in Canberra kept his after advertising it for about $100 for a year or two.
Come to think of it I gave another away about 5 years back but I kept the cast legs for my Ewheel.
H.

They also took over Tough back in the day and the early woodfast used the tough castings for a time they a very good heavy bed lathe great ways well fitted stocks.
I have a Tough and am very happy with its abilities.
Regards Rod.

Deleted for another post below

Originally Posted by clear out

I’ve always understood you drilled thru the tailstock for lampshades etc.
The hole thru the headstock spindle is for drifting out the drive dogs. (and nowadays running a vac chuck).
H.

Oh yeah , that would work.
Is there a through fitting with a bearing for that I wonder ? Or is it just done running on what ?
Never seen the tail stock for the Woodfast apart.

Originally Posted by Rod Gilbert

They also took over Tough back in the day and the early woodfast used the tough castings for a time they a very good heavy bed lathe great ways well fitted stocks.
I have a Tough and am very happy with its abilities.
Regards Rod.

Does the Tough have the same indexing set up ?

Well after waiting and watching for the past eight months since starting this thread, the patience paid of today, and for $250, it is now in my shed awaiting a cleanup.

And the best part, every member of my family are looking forward to learning and using it.



And Rob, just for your edification (although to be honest, at that price even if the indexing pin was missing it would still have come home with me),



I'm a very happy chappy!

I would call that a score (steal nearly)
Wood turning is very addictive.

Cheers Matt.

Those old Woodfast lathes are bullet proof. Good to see it has a new home.

Jim

Matt, I used a lathe for the first time about three months ago when I was being certified on the lathe at the men’s shed. The comment I made to my wife when I got home was that it was pure, unadulterated fun. I can see why it is addictive.

Jim, you’re not kidding about solid. I didn’t realise how heavy they are. The lathe on its own (no bench) is about 90 kg I believe!

This specimen is in magnificent condition, despite some surface rust on the bed, which will clean up easily. Simply green for the paint work, and wet and dry for the surface rust will do the job. I think I’ll take the opportunity while it’s in pieces (which is now is) to replace the bearings for good measure.

Good find Lance. That will get you going well . You even got a little chuck!

And the indexing pin is there . I think the nut loosens and some of them may just fall off and be put in a tin maybe . never to be re attached ?

Its a Morse 2 taper in the head and tail stock on these . There's plenty of M2 or MT2 gear for lathes on Ebay , Drives and stuff you can put in the Head stock and tail stock .
One thing pointed out to me 25 years after I started using one of these was the ability of a lathe to drill perfectly in the center of your spinning wood by either fitting a chuck in the tail stock with a drill bit inserted in the chuck .
Or, a whole range of larger drill bits with M2 tapers can be had as well .
This gives huge ability to fabricate things dead on, well, as far as possible for wood . Its great any way, if you didn't know that already .

There's a ton of other stuff of course . Most of it that I don't know yet

There's some bits you may want to keep an eye out for . Tool rest's or holders . Having two holders and a longer rest is good . Face plates show up on ebay . Internal and external .
They have a work steady , a three arm thing that fits to the bed and steady's long flexing work or holds things spinning so they can be drilled from the tail stock end , like chisel handles. They don't show up much but a Carbatec one can be adapted to fit .

Another thing . The drilling of lamp shades thing I was trying to work out in post 15 was figured out in another post on forum some where? Yes it's done through the head stock with a long drill that twists the normal direction but is re ground at the cutting end to cut the wood in the opposite direction . Incredible ! I knew it happened at the head stock but forgot the drill details . Not sure I ever noticed the drill details in the first place ?

My Dad bought one of these new in the early 70s . He had it at home for a while then it went to the workshop at the business . So I walked around it a kid then worked at it later as a job . So I have a thing for them . I bought My own one in the 90s. I stop and inspect every one I see where ever that is.

Rob

Nice pick up Lance. I will have one of these, complete with cabinet, new bearings, paintjob and VSD upgrade for sale as soon as things get back to normal whatever that will look like. They are great lathes and you will not be disappointed. It should be a 1" 10tpi thread on the headstock and I have a left and right hand tap for making up faceplates etc. (Although I have no idea where they are atm. The lathe has been in storage for a number of years)

Good stuff!. About the only average part on those set ups is the tool rest but that shouldn't matter for now.

Originally Posted by artful bodger

Good stuff!. About the only average part on those set ups is the tool rest but that shouldn't matter for now.

Can agree with that, I have two Woodfast lathes, 1981 model with that tool rest type and a 1989 model that has the cast iron tool rest. The early tool rest type does flex a bit, I made new revised pattern to suit me. If I don't forget, I will photograph the pattern in the morning.

Jim

Any tips on cleaning what I can only think is tree sap from the paintwork? I spent the evening breaking the lathe down and cleaning the surface rust from most parts.

Cleaning the paintwork with simply green is not working very well so far. I will try with hot water tomorrow and a green scouring pad to see if that helps shift the grime.

Originally Posted by LanceC

Any tips on cleaning what I can only think is tree sap from the paintwork? I spent the evening breaking the lathe down and cleaning the surface rust from most parts.

Cleaning the paintwork with simply green is not working very well so far. I will try with hot water tomorrow and a green scouring pad to see if that helps shift the grime.

That may be dried Danish Oil or Tung Oil that many of us use for finishing a rotating bowl or spindle. Often there is also a stripe of same on the wall behind the lathe and on the shirt or apron the operator is wearing. It may come off the lathe with paint thinner or WD-40 and a lot of scrubbing with scouring pad.

A single edge razor blade will take rust off the bed along with any gook.