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18th July 2020, 08:37 AM #1Member
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Vicmarc quick release handles - customising
Thought a few photos of my recent adventure in using and customising the Vicmarc quick release handles would be in order and possibly helpful to others so that they can learn from my mistakes
Firstly why am I even looking at quick release handles as opposed to turning individual handles
- Bowl gouges are a pain to sharpen with the handle on due to the total length clashing with my girth
- In my previous home I could put my lathe near a wall and had a rack with all my tools and could easily pick and choose. Moved to a new house so needed a different solution that took less space - have made myself a carousel (pvc tubes on a lazy susan) and hence the tall tools not ideal and wider diameters of individual tool handles take more space.
- I got a gift certificate and bought myself a Vicmarc quick release handle to check out
Most of my work is smaller scale so i have smaller bowl gouges and hollowing tools - hence till now I had been playing with a ER collet chuck as my quick release system
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But the ER chucks for bigger diameters get quite bulky and still a pain to unscrew and change collets which led me down the path of thinking about adding adapters to all my tools so that they were a single diameter on the handle end.
(as an aside - I also had a close look at the Jimmy Clewes quick release handles and was really keen but between the exchange rate and shipping cost using my gift certificate to investigate the vicmarc option was preferred. Though if money not as tight I would prefer the Jimmy Clewes adapters as I like wooden handles)
Enter the Vicmarc handle with its ¾" bore. Firstly I tried making adapters out of wood - didn't work satisfactorily - not only were the tolerances required greater than expected but the wood also compressed in the collet over time.
Plan B - since I don't have a metal lathe (yet) I went and bought a length of ¾" aluminium bar and this worked perfectly in the Vicmarc quick release. Cut some pieces and put in my pen drilling jaws to drill out et voila! works a dream - note you do need to make sure you chamfer the ends and don't create nicks with the jaws, masking tape works well.
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Since it is a single diameter and doesn't have a wider top edge to stop it slipping straight down the handle I came up with two alternatives
- Put a dimple/ridge in using a cold chisel/punch - per top adapter
- Or, my preferred, peen over/mushroom the edge - tolerances on handle are so good it needs very little to stop it slipping all the way through
Next problem: I can get the long and medium handles from Vicmarc with the ¾" bore but nothing shorter for my spindle tool handles - Vicmarc also no longer makes the handles without the PVC - so some customising is in order.
Purchased another handle and got one in the older brown/bronze pvc handle (yay!) as opposed to the newer blue handles. These handles are put together slightly differently even though the main components are similar.
Will discuss the brown one first:
You will see on one the flats there is dowel pin - this goes through the pvc and the aluminium tube into the main adapter body to keep the threads "locked"
0B210917-37CF-4EA0-A180-AA6740BC716E_1_105_c.jpeg
So knocked the dowel pin all the way through - with some difficulty unscrewed the adapter (let's be honest I was trying to twist the pvc off the aluminium tube and discovered the adapter was threaded) - and then had to lever the adapter out of the PVC - those ridges make it near impossible to "slip" the pvc off the adapter and tube.
Now for the blue handled one:
No dowel pin in sight - couldn't feel anything through the pvc - so one of these handles was going to get butchered to create a shorter spindle tool handle and the blue one just volunteered.
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You can see the ridges are moulded into the pvc as well hence why I couldn't slide the pvc off the handle even with some heat.
For the blue handle - the aluminium tube/handle is secured to the adapter with thread and .... thread locker ... you can see from the image below that I also learnt this the hard way. At first I thought it was an interference fit with loctite but it is threaded.
B2CFFD83-5712-43A3-A06A-A664823F7413_1_105_c.jpeg
So if I had to do again I don't know how I would avoid having to cut the pvc off. Undoing the adapter would definitely require heat to break the loctite's grip.
Also figured out the hard way how the blue stopper in the handle works ... use an allen key to loosen and move up and down to control depth for lead shot etc.
A6CCEF77-78CE-4405-855A-5DBE7024F0CA_1_105_c.jpeg 14F70419-AC5E-4C30-8C82-C7ABB0297E4E_1_105_c.jpeg
So this is what I have ended up with
81C8E8E3-1360-4B85-9718-2B946A8A3AAD_1_105_c.jpeg
Today's job will be to make a shorter handle out of elm for the "freed" adapter. For the brown pvc handle I didn't replace the dowel pin - rather just put some super glue between the pvc and aluminium tube/handle - this is necessary else the pvc just spins when you try to undo the quick release (by now you should know how I know this ). I much prefer the look/finish/feel of the brown pvc - the blue pvc is a bit tackier and loves dust more so it might eventually be replaced as well. I was thinking of a staved wood construction for the handle (over the aluminium tube) but I have enough length in the adapter that I will just make a sold wood handle.
Also the thread on the adapter end of the tube is identical to the butt end thread.
Only other thing left for me to figure out is how to use the ¾" bar for rectangular tools e.g. scrapers - will probably go with a round hole that will accept the tool and then fill it out with wooden dowel and epoxy i.e. sandwich the rectangular tool between segments of a circle to make the whole assemble round.
And just in case you weren't sure how the quick release worked: the rotating part of the handle has a bore that is slightly not aligned to the main body of the adapter and hence when you twist the handle it goes from being perfectly aligned to not and "jams" the tool.
Any questions - just shout.
cheers
Robin
P.S. If I knew the above and was starting from scratch I would contact Vicmarc to see if the adapters could be bought on their own. They have been incredibly helpful to me in the past.
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10th September 2022, 02:42 AM #2New Member
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I've been on a mission to pick the best QC handle for myself. Can you verify that for the 3/4 version, the tool bore goes all the way through the head. So you could stuff a tool down into the handle as deep as you like? For adjusting tool stickout length.
Thanks, Scott
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12th September 2022, 07:58 AM #3
I find it much better to make my own to suit what ever I require. Generally out out of steel tube 25mm od , 1.6mm or whatever you have for wall thickness. By the time you get the wrap on the handle its up around 30-32mm or 1.25" which is my preferred handle diameter.. The handle is wrapped in foam, of lately I have been using bicycle wrap as the foam tubes have been hard to get. The business end [ferrule?] I have used stainless, Aluminium and currently I am using nylon with a locking screw. This allows me to extend the shaft in and out to suit, for shafting I hunt around for old pneumatic cylinders and use the rod. This has a couple of benefits, its high tensile and they are hard chromed, so no bending and very little vibration and the longest would be around 450mm long. Then fit whatever head I have, I think I have fitted just about every major head available on the market. But at the moment my go to hollowers would be the Woodcut Pro-From and the Rolly Munro Wunderkut 10, IMHO the best two on the market, either one would be a complete hollower set up in their own right. But I like and use both for different reasons the Pro-Forme for mass removal especially of green timber. I have two heads as I find the adjustment back and forward from a coarse roughing cut and fine cuts damn fiddly, ok I now I'm impatient and fiddly here here doesnt help The Wundercut 10 for for fine work on smaller pieces say on native hard woods like Deadfinish, Gidgee, Inland Rose wood etc
Now either hollower would/will do the same, its just me I dont like too much mucking around. When I m turning all I want to do is turn with absolute minimal adjustment, grab it and go. Thats why I usually buy heads only, it saves me a great deal , I have the two Pro-Forme's for less than one complete set up, with Rolly I picked up the whole set up as it is a darn fine set 16mm stainless long shaft on a very well designed very long handle. But I have an idea for a slight mod even to his one.
If you use nylon then the hand can easily be made on our wood lathe and I find the nylon work very well as long as the ferrule is a decent length, is 74mm long with a m6 locking know like the Wundercut set up.Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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23rd September 2022, 08:41 PM #4
My preference is for very light handles.
None of the commercial offerings are light enough for my liking.
Best solution so far has been to add a Clewes QR to an thin aluminium tube and wrap with door draft rubber strip. All up weight 250g...
One issue with the Clewes QR is that it has a blind end inside, which limits how far gouges shafts can go into the handle and also provides no option to carry a gouge with the bevel end inside the handle.
I'm thinking about cutting off the blind end and hoping that won't weaken it.Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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24th September 2022, 06:24 AM #5New Member
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This post is very helpful. I ordered a 3/4 Vicmarc handle from a guy in Canada because no USA reseller has them. But, I received the green handled one, not blue. So I assume he's just got old stock. He thinks it's te current model, but Vicmarcs website shows blue only. Anyway, my green one has the pin, that I wasn't anticipating. I think it's going to be in the way somewhat if I want to push a tool down into the handle. I may have to remove and shorten it.
Robin: Is there any reason I can't knock that pin all the way through, shorten and reinstall it?
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24th September 2022, 06:27 AM #6New Member
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24th September 2022, 03:31 PM #7Originally Posted by Clewes
Hi Scott , it's to do with stability , I drilled one through and it does not hold as well.
I showed Jimmy mine with the thin aluminium tubing handle and I think he was more puzzled why I would prefer it so light than impressed about how light the all aluminium handle could be made. I didn't think at the time to ask him about boring out the blind end on his QR head, so thanks for passing that info on.
As it is, the Clewes' holds less securely than the Simon Hope QR heads that I also have. So, I'm not sure if it is worth risking a drill out. However, the Woodcut shafts, and to a lesser extent the D-way gouges, are too long without being able to insert them deeper into the handle and I have a few of those.
I don't understand why the QR head would not "hold as well" if drilled through. The holding mechanism itself inside the head shouldn't be weakened by doing that. Perhaps the sleeve behind the head that goes into the handle might become more flexible. I'm thinking that may be more of a risk in a wooden handle, but, if the aluminium sleeve was 2-part epoxy glued into the aluminium tube that I use for the handle that should keep the aluminium sleeve quite 'stable', well at least in theory...
I might try it when I next get some workshop maintenance time.Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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