Thread: Vicmarc VL300 headstock bearings

Wouldn't they just be bearings that any decent engineering supplies place would have? If you can get them out there's usually a part number on them.

Yup get the bearing number of the bearings and any bearing supply outfit will have them, you may find that they will be cheaper
Bearings & Parts in Coffs Harbour | Coffs Harbour Bearing Centre

I did mine yrs ago and got them from the local bearing shop

Ah pardon my ignorance i assumed they would be a vicmarc specific size or part, not that they would use wider standards already in place lol

VL300 Bearing Taper Roller-LM67048R part P00072

Ill take a look at the place in coffs. Thanks a lot

Yep, LM67048R is all that the shop needs, pretty much a standard stock item

Originally Posted by delbs

Ah pardon my ignorance i assumed they would be a vicmarc specific size or part, not that they would use wider standards already in place lol

VL300 Bearing Taper Roller-LM67048R part P00072

Ill take a look at the place in coffs. Thanks a lot

Vicmarc is way too small to have its own speciality bearings, 99.999% use standard bearings. Some automotive companies modify existing bearings

Originally Posted by delbs

Ah pardon my ignorance i assumed they would be a vicmarc specific size or part, not that they would use wider standards already in place lol

VL300 Bearing Taper Roller-LM67048R part P00072

Ill take a look at the place in coffs. Thanks a lot

LM67048 (without the R) is a standard "Holden" inner wheel bearing used on trailers etc and as the attached PDF states "This is the most basic and most widely used type of tapered roller bearing. It consists of two main separable parts: thecone (inner ring) assembly and the cup (outer ring). It is typically mounted in opposing pairs on a shaft."

Cone Part Number LM67048
Cup Part Number LM67010

Often you will see the "set" described as LM67048RS/10 Tapered Roller Bearing. Not sure what the "R" & "S" specifies (I think it means contact seal on one or both sides??). I do know that there are alternate Cup outer diameter sizes available to suit various applications or specific products (LM67010 outter dia is 59.131 mm LM67014 is 61.986mm)

Shop around for a competitive price as there are some huge rip-offs online! Investing in a high quality NSK, SKF, or Timken product is well worth the little extra cost.

https://www.purvisindustries.com/ASS...tion_Sheet.pdf

Originally Posted by hughie

Vicmarc is way too small to have its own speciality bearings, 99.999% use standard bearings. Some automotive companies modify existing bearings

Yeah i assumed my ignorance comment was more likely

Appreciate the help guys ill hit them up for a new belt also to remove this grinding noise. Old owner said bearings were replaced by vicmarc themselves but they havent serviced a longbed in years. i just see this apart of maintenance anyway so im happy to dive in to fix it up. this is my last lathe i ever purchase afterall

Originally Posted by delbs

Yeah i assumed my ignorance comment was more likely

Appreciate the help guys ill hit them up for a new belt also to remove this grinding noise. Old owner said bearings were replaced by vicmarc themselves but they havent serviced a longbed in years. i just see this apart of maintenance anyway so im happy to dive in to fix it up. this is my last lathe i ever purchase afterall

The belt should also be available from your local bearing supplier. See if you can read the belt number directly of your machine's belt. It should be easy to read unless the belt is way past its service life.

Ok so this afternoon I really stuck my head in there with a torch when I had nothing mounted in the chuck, removed all accessories except the tailstock, gently pushed the tail stock up against the headstock shaft and could hear the grinding sound, removed the tailstock and still heard the grinding sound

Wasn’t the pulley or any loose grub screw, finally identified the sound of the noise wasn’t coming from the bearing it was the lockout pin to lock the headstock when attaching chucks, it has the engage position and another set of groves it’s supposed to sit in when disengaged, when it’s ‘disengaged’ there must be the smaller amount of thread internally slightly tapping on internal headstock pulley and that’s what was making the sound.

Now I know to move it out of the way to the new and improved disengaged a lot well out of the way it’s running so so smooth and super quiet. I actually believe the bearings are new that I can properly hear them

See what happens when you troubleshoot when you don’t have mounted projects actually spinning at you

Cheers
Nathan

The index pin moving over time is a common issue with Vicmarc & Woodfast lathes, more so if you always rotate the pin in the one direction to engage / disengage. It's caught out many wood turners.

Hadnt experienced it until now so it’s good to know. Have got a way I’ll re adjust it tomorrow. It is a 99 model after all so I’m glad it’s such a trivial fix.

Appreciate the knowledge base on this forum

Cheers
Nathan

Well since I’ve turned another two bowls since my last post in this thread I still wasn’t convinced it wasn’t a bearing issue. I adjusted the pin lock so it was out of the way and not making any noise even at the highest of speeds, sounded beautiful.
Mount another bowl and low or high speed it was knocking with each rotation..

So I’ve picked up new bearings and a belt locally as I thought it’s necessary maintenance anyway, I haven’t opened the headstock too much on this vl300 as I have previously with my vl200 so figured even if the parts aren’t needed this time around they’d be handy for a rainy day

Ive taken some photos with the dissassembled parts that I’ve cleaned up with a scourer wheel bench grinder and I wanted to ask on here if anyone could post photos if they’ve replaced badly worn bearings for me to compare to? Mine don’t look bad at all neither do the headstock surrounds where the bearings rest

I’ll re pack them and the headstock and tighten everything as it’s all put back together to see if that makes a difference











Cheers
Nathan

My bearings still looked pristine when I replaced mine but it was definitely making a knocking noise, it doesn’t take much.

You still have to replace the outer cup as well, not just the bearing, in case you didn’t know.