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Thread: Vicmark Chuck stuck on lathe
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6th February 2012, 10:25 PM #16
$230 will buy you a new chuck for your mate, you just have to leave that one where it is.
Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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7th February 2012, 09:34 AM #17
vicmarc are in CLONTARF , and VERMAC, in REDCLIFFE , take the lot down to 1 of them and for a small cost they should be able to separate the 2 .
Jeff
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8th February 2012, 12:41 PM #18Hewer of wood
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Yeah, that's a good option.
...
What you are calling the insert tool, and the socket it goes into in the chuck insert, are not a good match on my VM chucks. The rod slops around and bends easily enough.
At a guess the root problem is the spindle adaptor. It's binding. The thread match here is critical. Is there any way you can squirt some WD40 into it?
If you have 1cm clear on the spindle on the outboard side, I'd suggest you get a small pipe wrench on that section and a larger pipe wrench on the chuck insert (the inboard part with the socket). Pipe wrenches are cheap and bind more the harder you lever. They'll leave marks but that should just be a cosmetic problem. On the outboard side you may have to go to a size of wrench that overlaps the thread, trashing a bit of that but a triangular file will help to clean it up before spinning the pulley back on.
Good luck with it.Cheers, Ern
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13th February 2012, 11:37 AM #19GOLD MEMBER
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Here are exploded views of an Elu 180 lathe:
Elu Lathe | Spare Parts & Spares | Tools and Parts Direct
Just to be sure, the chuck unscrews counterclockwise looking at the face of the chuck from the tailstock.
My preferred method of removing chucks, faceplates, rusted in place is to:
Put reference marks with a lead pencil or a small scratch on the chuck and spindle to see if you have movement.
Spray or dribble liberally WD-40, penetrating oil, alternate auto transmission oil and ether engine starter, or your preferred "mouse milk".
With a small brass hammer 6 - 8 ounces, tap, tap, tap, around and around the part right at the thread. Add more juice and repeat, more juice and leave overnight.
Next day repeat above, position a stout piece of timber in the chuck leaving about 12 inches sticking out at about the 10 o'clock position facing the chuck. Tighten the drive pulley on the spindle securely and lock the spindle by tightly winding clothes line rope between the spindle pulley and the body of the headstock.
Further make a wedge of soft wood and gently drive it between the pulley and anything that will bind it. You could also put the belt on the largest step on the spindle pulley and wrap clothesline tightly around the loop of belt going to the motor.
Get a heat gun, hair dryer, or propane torch and warm the chuck until it is too hot to touch. If you heat until a drop of water quickly turns to steam that is around 212 F.
Get a piece of 1/2 water pipe or a 1/2 or 5/8 in rebar and whack the piece of timber sticking out of the chuck very quickly, like a very fast karate chop. Give it two or three good whacks.
Check your reference marks, if you have any movement at all, it is coming off. Keep whacking and moving the timber in the chuck until it becomes loose enough to unscrew by hand.
If this session does not get it off , more juice, heat, tap, tap, tap, heat, repeat. Soak, leave overnight.
You may find that the setscrews or nut holding the drive pulley on the spindle slip. Keep an eye out for that if the timber moves but the reference points stay the same.
Good luck and success.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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13th February 2012, 12:43 PM #20Hewer of wood
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Good info Paul
Cheers, Ern
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29th February 2012, 07:29 PM #21
Matt,
How is the problem , have you managed to separate the CHUCK and HEADSTOCK??
Jeff
vk4
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