Thread: Wadkin RU 15 footings

Send us some photos of the new one! I'd be interested in checking it out.

Originally Posted by

I have to wipe the drool off the keyboard.

We are in the process of commissioning a new lathe capable of turning 800.mm in diameter.

I will let you know how it goes.

I too am slobbering on my keyboard.

, 800mm swing by how much between centers?

Photos please.
---------------------------------------------

HSS,

A thread on grouting and leveling a machine.

How to grout a machine --? - Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web

This is for metal working which is pickier than wood working, but the process is the same.

The machinists levels used are so sensitive as to move a half bubble if you put a .001 shim under one end.

The Wadkin looks to have 6 points to rest and bolt down. If the machine is level between each of the 6 points and grouted and bolted, there should be no trouble extending the movable bed.

1 3 5
The six points, headstock at 1 - 2
2 4 6

Set in your foundation the biggest bolts that will fit through the mount holes.

Place the lathe on the bolts and place spacers under the 1 - 2 points so that it is the highest point.

Put level on bed between 1 & 2 & shim to level.

Level between 1 & 3, level between 2 & 4, level between 3 & 4, check by using a straight edge and level between 1 & 4, then between 2 & 3,

Level between 3 & 5, then between 4 & 6, then between 5 & 6, then between 3 & 6 and between 4 & 5.

Start at the beginning at 1 & 2 and check and shim if needed all the way through.

Then grout under the machine and let completely set. Using thick washers and nuts fasten machine down.

If the bed binds when extending to make the gap, check for level again. If out loosen bolts under low places, shim and retighten.

A 2 meter pinch bar resting on a 6mm steel plate will lift the machine for shimming.

This is the type of level needed:

Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies

If you have a machinist friend, you might be able to borrow one, or feed him a good dinner and have him help. There are cheaper Chinese versions. If one checks the level by leveling with shims and then reversing the level, the cheaper version will do.

The Practical Machinist Forum is a huge source of information and friendly advice. The owner does not tolerate home shop Asian machinery discussion.

Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web - Powered by vBulletin

I went there to learn about my South Bend Heavy 10L lathe

Thanks Paul, that's great advice in a lot of detail. It's taken the guess work out of it. I'll have a closer look at tht link as well. Cheers.

, 800mm swing by how much between centers?

Photos please.

About 2.4 metres (8"0)

Photos will come later.

the safe bet might be to contract a suitably qualified engineer for advice, whoever your getting to supply the concrete should have a contact.

It might cost a few hundred dollars, but it might be money well spent if something goes wrong.

I have an RU that I picked up at the liquidation of an aluminum foundry in Bridgeport, Connecticut US. The lathe was being used in a pattern shop. I agree with the grouting advice given above. The lathe has a good base that distributes the load very well. I leveled mine using aluminum wedges and then poured thinset mortar under the base.

Here's a link to the article on the sale and removal

I don't have any pictures of the lathe in it's current setup. but here are some taken when it was in the pattern shop and shortly after removal.





AF
Somerset, New Jersey USA

Gutsy effort getting the RU out of the 2nd floor and home (safely). Well done!

My brother-in-law and business partner had an Wadkin RU that went for scrap prices when they auctioned off their equipment when after closing down their pattern business. Sadly he didn't give me first right of refusal, which was probably a good thing as it was several thousand klms away and my workshop would have had severe indigestion had I attempted to fit it in there. And, the crane fees would would have been something else.
.

Originally Posted by the-owwm

I have an RU that I picked up at the liquidation of an aluminum foundry in Bridgeport, Connecticut US. The lathe was being used in a pattern shop. I agree with the grouting advice given above. The lathe has a good base that distributes the load very well. I leveled mine using aluminum wedges and then poured thinset mortar under the base.

Here's a link to the article on the sale and removal

I don't have any pictures of the lathe in it's current setup. but here are some taken when it was in the pattern shop and shortly after removal.





AF
Somerset, New Jersey USA

So how have you found the RU? I haven't been able to use it yet. Are their any tips or hints you can offer about operating or maintaining it?

Your lathe looks pretty clean, so I doubt that you'll have many of the problems I did. As you can tell from the pictures, they weren't very big on keeping the thing clean. I had layers of oil and dust to clean-up. That said, they did do a good job of keeping it lubed. I have little to no wear on any of the way surfaces. The inside of the gearbox was clean and had plenty of oil. I'd follow the advice given here on levelling the machine. Then make sure the bed slides freely, the carriage moves smoothly, check your oil levels and go to work. I use my lathe for making patterns to be used in casting iron. These are used for restoration of old woodworking and metalworking machines. I've also used it for odd purposes like crowning bandsaw wheels/tires. How common are these lathes in Australia? I rarely see them in this part of the world. The Wadkin RS is far more common. As far as sliding gap bed lathes go, The Putnam and the Fay & Scott (both made in North America) are fairly common here.

Fay & Scott:



Putnam:



These are both great lathes, but nowhere near as refined as the Wadkin RU.

AF
Somerset, New Jersey, United States

Thanks for tips. My lathe as no wear on the bed or the carriage and the tailstock spins with just a touch of the finger. I was pretty amazed when it first arrived.

I've been told that the government were the only ones to import the RU into Australia (presumably for patternmaking in the railways or mining I guess). I bought mine from Sydney where it had been the possession of an old patternmaker. Mine's a late model I think (early '70's). I'm struggling to find much information on it so I guess that would suggest it's pretty rare here. I'd love to get a manual on it.

I just realised that you're from NJ. My girlfriend is from Ridgewood, NJ. I'm heading over in June...it's a small world.

Those other tow lathes look of similar style to the RS.

I'll post some picks of it once it's all set up.

Originally Posted by HSS

I'm struggling to find much information on it so I guess that would suggest it's pretty rare here. I'd love to get a manual on it.

Here is some info, Tony might find a book.

lathes

Page Title

Wadkin Thread on Practical Machinist:

INCREDIBLE Pattern Makers wood lathe on eBay - Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web

Keep looking on Google, amazing what turns up.